tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20479100530526400552024-03-05T02:45:46.431-08:00Star Trek: Enterprise Jumpsuit Analysis/TutorialAnalysis of the Starfleet jumpsuit seen in STAR TREK: ENTERPRISE, with a sewing tutorial intended to accompany our ENTERPRISE jumpsuit sewing pattern. Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.comBlogger126125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2047910053052640055.post-47772422207426336842015-11-17T18:18:00.001-08:002021-10-03T21:12:08.428-07:00Tips for Achieving an Ideal Fit<div style="text-align: justify;">
The ENT jumpsuit is, perhaps, simultaneously the easiest and most difficult Starfleet uniform to alter for fitting purposes. </div>
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While some costumers may find a perfect fit in one of the "default" pattern sizes, it is somewhat unlikely due to variations in height, weight, build, musculature, neck size, and general physique. </div>
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That's we highly recommend making a muslin test or a "practice" garment of some kind (other than to familiarize yourself with its construction, that is!) - you can make the necessary sizing observations (e.g. sleeves need to be an inch longer, waist needs to be loosened, etc.). </div>
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All this fitting does require extra time and effort on the part of the costumer, but the finished garment's custom-tailored look will definitely be worth it!</div>
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There are four main aspects of the garment that may need adjustment and the original pattern need be altered: the shoulders, the chest, the waist, and the length of the garment (at various places).</div>
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The shoulders are probably the trickiest area of the ENT jumpsuit to get just right; the uniform should, ideally, look "sculpted" to the wearer, similarly to how the men's later-era TNG jacket yokes were structured. </div>
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The two biggest factors in achieving an ideal fit in the shoulder area are the shape/slope of the wearer's shoulders, and the loft of the shoulder pads. </div>
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Some peoples' shoulders are straighter and more squared (with a sharper angle "drop off" at the arm), while others' are more sloped and diagonal. </div>
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We're drafted <b><a href="http://badwolfcostumes.com/star-trek-enterprise-mens-jumpsuit-sewing-pattern/" target="_blank">our ENT jumpsuit pattern</a></b> to accommodate the majority of peoples' average shoulder slopes, but some additional adjustments may be needed to get the uniform to sit on the shoulders "just right." </div>
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For minor fitting issues regarding the shoulder slope, we recommend compensating by simply adjusting the loft of the shoulder pads accordingly; if the upper shoulder area is a little baggy around the shoulder seam, use taller shoulder pads, and if it's a little tight, use smaller ones. </div>
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One neat trick that the ENT costuming department seemed to employ was to sometimes support the appropriate raglan shoulder pads with an additional pair of set-in shoulder pads underneath, "doubling-up" as it were! (We recommend using this trick only if your shoulders are sloped considerably more than our pattern's shoulder seam, though, as you don't want your ENT jumpsuit's shoulders to end up looking like those TNG-era Romulans'!)</div>
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If more extreme measures are required to achieve a good shoulder fit, one can, of course, redraw the slope of the shoulder seam, adjusting as needed.</div>
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IMPORTANT: If you alter the actual cut of the shoulders in any way, remember to alter your shoulder reinforcements (and division stripe alignment guides) in the same manner! Otherwise, your shoulder reinforcements will not fit onto the jumpsuit body properly!</div>
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Achieving an ideal fit in the chest area can be tricky, although not as tricky as with the shoulders. </div>
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Unlike the shoulders, which, as we've mentioned, should ideally look "sculpted" around the wearer's shoulders and drape beautifully (and snugly) over the shoulder area, the jumpsuit's chest has some wearing ease. </div>
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This wearing ease begins at the bottom of the division stripe (where the shoulder fit is still fairly snug) and tapers to its fullness at the bottom of the armscye. </div>
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In other words, the upper chest (where the division stripe is) should be relatively snug, but the lower chest (at the bottom of the armscye) should have a comfortable amount of wearing ease. </div>
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When testing the fit of your jumpsuit, stand or sit in a natural position. Obviously, moving and posing in certain ways will cause your jumpsuit to respond differently, sometimes bunching or pulling. Just relax! </div>
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If the upper chest is too tight, the fabric will pull uncomfortably and the jumpsuit will feel restrictive. We recommend letting it out by extending the outer area of the shoulder as needed, in the same manner as one would extend the garment along horizontal lengthen/shorten lines. </div>
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If the upper chest is too loose, the excess fabric may gather and bunch around the bottom of the division stripe. We recommend taking it along the outer edge of the shoulders. </div>
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If the lower chest is too tight, we recommend letting it out by extending the lower armscye by ¼ of the total amount needed and tapering to the original seam line toward the waist. (For instance, if you need to let out the chest 2", extend the front and back lower armscyes by ½" each, which totals to 2".) </div>
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If the lower chest is too loose, we recommend taking it in at the lower armscye by ¼ of the total amount needed and tapering to the original seam line toward the waist. </div>
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IMPORTANT: If you adjust the upper armscye, remember to adjust your shoulder reinforcements in the same manner!</div>
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IMPORTANT: If you adjust the lower armscye, remember to adjust the outer edges of your chest pockets in the same manner! </div>
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IMPORTANT: If you adjust the upper <i>or</i> lower armscyes in any way, remember to adjust the appropriate armscye edges of your sleeves accordingly! (For instance, if you took in the lower armscye ¼", take in the top outer corner of the sleeve ¼" too, unless you want to keep it and ease it in when installing the sleeve.)</div>
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The waist is generally an easy aspect of the ENT jumpsuit to alter, thanks to the back elastic waistband! </div>
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Like with the chest, there is some wearing ease at the waist, but the back elastic waistband gathers this ease around the wearer's waist and pulls the jumpsuit taut. </div>
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As you may have noticed, the side seam line on the ENT jumpsuit is rolled forward slightly; once the back waistband is installed, the side seam is pulled toward the back so it hangs vertically.</div>
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If you need to tighten the jumpsuit's waist, it's as easy as adjusting the back elastic, which <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-21-finishing.html" target="_blank">we covered in the main body of our tutorial</a></b>.</div>
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If you need to slightly loosen the jumpsuit's waist, it's also easily handled by feeding some of the elastic back into the channel, which <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-21-finishing.html" target="_blank">we also covered in the main body of our tutorial</a></b>. </div>
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However, if your waist measurement is approximately equal to, or exceeds, your chest measurement, simply letting out the elastic won't really get the job done. </div>
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Should this be the case with your physique, we recommend letting out the waist by redrawing the jumpsuit's front side edge. Start at the lower armscye and taper outward toward the waistline, with the waist adjustment being ½ of the total amount needed, continuing downward over the hips and thighs as far as necessary. </div>
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For example, if you need to let the waist out 2", we recommend adding 1" onto each front body at the waist, starting at the lower armscye and tapering to the new waist line (1" away from the original), continuing downward as needed before tapering back to the original seam line.</div>
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Lengthening or shortening the garment is a simple matter, for the most part. </div>
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Naturally, some people will be taller while others are shorter; some may have a long torso and short legs, or vice-versa. Some people may have a long waist and short thighs, while other people may have a tiny "seat" and very long legs. Builds obviously vary considerably!</div>
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On the jumpsuit body, there are three places where we recommend lengthening or shortening the body as needed to achieve an ideal fit. </div>
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To shorten the garment, simply fold the pattern paper upward at the lines then back down again, or cut along one of the horizontal lines as if you were lengthening it and overlap the upper and lower portions however much is necessary, straightening the edges if needed. </div>
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At whichever portion(s) of the body need to be lengthened, cut the pattern along one of the horizontal lines so it is two separate pieces, insert a small piece of paper underneath the two pieces, (a leftover paper scrap from the cut pattern will work nicely, as well any cheap craft paper you might have sitting around, or you could even put some of that junk mail to good use!), tape the three together, and, making sure the upper and lower portions are properly aligned (i.e. not straight and not crooked/slanted/etc.), use a ruler as a guide and draw a line on each side to connect them. Cut along these lines to form your new, extended pattern piece.</div>
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I (Alex), for instance, need to lengthen the upper portion of the jumpsuit body by 1" so it doesn't ride up in the crotch uncomfortably in the front and give me a wedgie in the back (TMI?).</div>
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Obviously, the same adjustment needs to be made to both the front and back body panels for the jumpsuit to go together properly.</div>
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CONGRATULATIONS! </div>
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YOU'RE FINISHED!</div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">If you found this tutorial helpful, please <b><u><a href="https://ko-fi.com/obsessivecostumingdude" target="_blank">support my costume research on Ko-Fi</a></u></b>! :)</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div>
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Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2047910053052640055.post-86122855159285655692015-11-17T18:08:00.003-08:002016-05-22T13:49:32.245-07:00Tutorial, part 21 - Finishing<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNGC0zSyj5aWHSOAiLC5YgNcvqtmJdD78KCbznHV20Swq9OQDRSPP3nIw0xNtGr74tQr6nPYURp1iJCfBhyphenhyphen_cfd-8KJCTBWW7gTuifJFlf_6aVO8S4Pd7WwnJphY5KezFns0c0qT2-RPE/s1600/Star+Wars+almost+there.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="170" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNGC0zSyj5aWHSOAiLC5YgNcvqtmJdD78KCbznHV20Swq9OQDRSPP3nIw0xNtGr74tQr6nPYURp1iJCfBhyphenhyphen_cfd-8KJCTBWW7gTuifJFlf_6aVO8S4Pd7WwnJphY5KezFns0c0qT2-RPE/s400/Star+Wars+almost+there.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Almost there ... almost there ...</td></tr>
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Now the moment you've been waiting for (if you actually waited, that is)! </div>
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Put on your jumpsuit, position your shoulder pads comfortably, and pin or baste into place. (It helps to have a partner for this.) </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtL7zTr-Nc0uMPFkQBBaRRv41PWUQoBG7n57PKWimnawfHTDJgb_DyQrzW0Wv1IzXVGMuaL05M62sjYLdvTz8Jxkz0fqulFPfdY9g78Co6rJDeBmTVuderq02UWy89b6BMsBUcMzpEdt0/s1600/1a-shoulder+pads.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtL7zTr-Nc0uMPFkQBBaRRv41PWUQoBG7n57PKWimnawfHTDJgb_DyQrzW0Wv1IzXVGMuaL05M62sjYLdvTz8Jxkz0fqulFPfdY9g78Co6rJDeBmTVuderq02UWy89b6BMsBUcMzpEdt0/s400/1a-shoulder+pads.jpg" width="370" /></a></div>
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As you may recall, <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/09/analysis-part-8-shoulder-pads.html" target="_blank">the screen-used ENT jumpsuits' shoulder pads were fastened to the underside of the body via hook-and-loop tape ("Velcro")</a></b>, but we like to actually hand-sew ours to the body. </div>
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However, should you wish to use the screen-accurate method, some shoulder pads actually come with lengths of hook-and-loop tape already attached, which will save you a little time and hand-sewing.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj11Jb1X0j2wQCyDA3biwpKNqs5nlLv0rTM4JRjhpYqfXnh65cALlBIHtopiQbjkMQtDKVJM3xVHCuoH_aZG3Hjb7O6y3xeDA5l2vFr2V32fIJVUtW0KRgeCwf4dSnMvy49azTkA2FHEB8/s1600/1b-shoulder+pads.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj11Jb1X0j2wQCyDA3biwpKNqs5nlLv0rTM4JRjhpYqfXnh65cALlBIHtopiQbjkMQtDKVJM3xVHCuoH_aZG3Hjb7O6y3xeDA5l2vFr2V32fIJVUtW0KRgeCwf4dSnMvy49azTkA2FHEB8/s400/1b-shoulder+pads.jpg" width="352" /></a></div>
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Either way, whether hand-sewing the hook-and-loop tape or the shoulder pad itself, do so carefully and only stitch through the shoulder seam allowances and/or jumpsuit body, not through the shoulder reinforcement, so the stitches will not be visible on the outside of the jumpsuit! </div>
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Also note that the necessary loft of the shoulder pads will depend on the physique of the wearer.</div>
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Once you've attached your shoulder pads, it's time to establish a good fit at the waist! </div>
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If you followed our advice by basting the elastic on one side, leaving a little for fitting adjustment, and basting the side seam closed, good for you!</div>
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In my case, the jumpsuit was a little too loose around the waist, and I needed to take in the elastic about 2" to achieve a comfortable fit.</div>
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Once you've gotten a good fit, sew the elastic to the back seam allowance, sew the side closed again (pulling the waist straps out of the way!), cut the elastic down to size, and press the seam allowances open again.</div>
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TIP: Pulling the elastic through one end as demonstrated above can cause the fabric to gather more heavily on one side of the jumpsuit than the other. To compensate, after you've closed the side again, hold the jumpsuit firmly at the sides, then stretch out the back elastic several times to evenly allocate the gathering.</div>
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Letting the lower waist straps rest naturally (with their lower edges flush with the lower edge of the back elastic waistband), note and mark the position of the buttonholes. </div>
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Angle the upper waist straps downward ever-so-slightly and note those positions as well. </div>
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Attach your ½" black buttons through all layers where appropriate, with the "wrong" side of the button facing upward/outward!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuHSRT9j1AqKAZlx3Z5iE0rrD7fM6OEEenyOkzgtH2g2BmUjEMOx7reOsDNDsEQbJN3_NKTjQqGeCKQ14yrsKGC6GQF_VqKahw7neaFxglCrf_Fku8Ho8411vzecSmqUOZpCNzChF6fIM/s1600/4b-back+buttons+attached.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="166" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuHSRT9j1AqKAZlx3Z5iE0rrD7fM6OEEenyOkzgtH2g2BmUjEMOx7reOsDNDsEQbJN3_NKTjQqGeCKQ14yrsKGC6GQF_VqKahw7neaFxglCrf_Fku8Ho8411vzecSmqUOZpCNzChF6fIM/s400/4b-back+buttons+attached.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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A special (and grateful) shout-out goes to Michael Cowart for observing and sharing this particular trick!</div>
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<i>NOTE: Although all logic seems to suggest that these black buttons were ½" in diameter - including the probability that they were the same <b><a href="http://entundershirt.blogspot.com/2015/10/analysis-part-3-buttons.html" target="_blank">buttons used on the corresponding ENT undershirt</a></b> - for some reason we can't quite put our finger on, we think that ⅝" buttons look more like those on the screen-used ...</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuGKRp3ID1uAiLp0QBu4HbpVoB3hRlXxz3ssV1l-Ln7Vih5V11g6lk3KDKXErhP6L8BlSs5zzniZpw4jhIIEaLt6jGFexcuL3bp270tcQjP82-YzMI_viI6T4TlNesLcpaW2ARyaFa2XE/s1600/4a-back+buttons+attached.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="340" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuGKRp3ID1uAiLp0QBu4HbpVoB3hRlXxz3ssV1l-Ln7Vih5V11g6lk3KDKXErhP6L8BlSs5zzniZpw4jhIIEaLt6jGFexcuL3bp270tcQjP82-YzMI_viI6T4TlNesLcpaW2ARyaFa2XE/s400/4a-back+buttons+attached.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Lastly, remove all your tailor-basting and give your ENT jumpsuit a good pressing/steaming!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheRWd0wmABrun4RLRZK4xeiwDVL_bNG0giuoEWE3fDdN-ShoijmFKWbp2YMirXu3tTU29nj7ASzebB4NHJxIXr4mzpXpZIwveEMPGz1taYBdBclVl9EEYuw7IjjDq3iX9qzKeyheEpcRw/s1600/5-tailor+basting+removed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheRWd0wmABrun4RLRZK4xeiwDVL_bNG0giuoEWE3fDdN-ShoijmFKWbp2YMirXu3tTU29nj7ASzebB4NHJxIXr4mzpXpZIwveEMPGz1taYBdBclVl9EEYuw7IjjDq3iX9qzKeyheEpcRw/s400/5-tailor+basting+removed.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-20-collar.html">Tutorial, part 20 - Collar</a></b></div>
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tips-for-achieving-ideal-fit.html">Tips for Achieving an Ideal Fit</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2047910053052640055.post-6474495999406449122015-11-17T12:49:00.003-08:002016-05-22T13:49:27.944-07:00Tutorial, part 20 - Collar<div style="text-align: justify;">
The process of preparing, attaching, and edge-stitching/topstitching the collar is similar to that done previously with the sleeve cuffs and leg cuffs. </div>
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Sew the collar to the collar facing (both piece A) along the upper edges, right sides together, beginning and ending the stitch line at the collar/body seam line.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzHvUa9A-UdvGBLLSSVhEyJ1E1af5ffQP6NwaX95NZ2sayPaovld4VHibYpOKvo9PsnLj_uEYqrpxHRZQ7df9XF41WQMId7eQk0cVtZ8WoaS4z2FEY6PjqDh_2c6IY8ODB657f_bJA8xA/s1600/1-collar+sewn+to+facing.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="125" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzHvUa9A-UdvGBLLSSVhEyJ1E1af5ffQP6NwaX95NZ2sayPaovld4VHibYpOKvo9PsnLj_uEYqrpxHRZQ7df9XF41WQMId7eQk0cVtZ8WoaS4z2FEY6PjqDh_2c6IY8ODB657f_bJA8xA/s400/1-collar+sewn+to+facing.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Trim the collar/collar facing upper seam allowances to ¼" at the front edges and ⅛" along the top.</div>
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Turn the collar assembly right sides out and press.</div>
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Press the collar facing's lower seam allowance under, notching as needed to get it to conform.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7juSvAwrUV3DtcTbfvZegZF194S0LkKN-OCGx1MaCp0JJQyP-I6g78wa2a_4mYvOGjj1oSBMzW9eFByYmQbfyMgUzr157QXWc6Knj8fb3Ksqe8krP_46ku5ptcZRrK-I0HAWZwk5eTmc/s1600/4-one+SA+turned+under.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="108" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7juSvAwrUV3DtcTbfvZegZF194S0LkKN-OCGx1MaCp0JJQyP-I6g78wa2a_4mYvOGjj1oSBMzW9eFByYmQbfyMgUzr157QXWc6Knj8fb3Ksqe8krP_46ku5ptcZRrK-I0HAWZwk5eTmc/s400/4-one+SA+turned+under.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Sew the collar assembly to the body along the neckline, with the front edges slightly overlapping the front zipper, the collar edges exactly meeting the division stripes at the shoulder seams, and of course matching center backs.</div>
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TIP: Grade the collar/body seam allowances to reduce the accumulated bulk at the bottom of the collar!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikMhskoHv5IhK1aOfci19B3y54J3GWHqxfqz0DzS209bPcfkpaZxQLCsWlpt4nohlmgfpAjUWU4y_rPLXMGKLNNa3mfddPdtqHFXgehJSJlvSKfrHWtxny-e94H0ZFMzpSoeXY7v97iXs/s1600/7-collar+SA+graded.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikMhskoHv5IhK1aOfci19B3y54J3GWHqxfqz0DzS209bPcfkpaZxQLCsWlpt4nohlmgfpAjUWU4y_rPLXMGKLNNa3mfddPdtqHFXgehJSJlvSKfrHWtxny-e94H0ZFMzpSoeXY7v97iXs/s400/7-collar+SA+graded.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Fold the collar facing under. </div>
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Pin the collar to the collar facing along their lower edges. </div>
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Edge-stitch the collar to the collar facing along the entirety of their perimeter.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV3OleTWMhdOEI10k4Oi_oHJSmj6M7CEDel-aBMfvxwNd-wd0CdLvB3ZCJ9b579kkctC_3CTo03hdgMUXkXxePXr8WlntlNi2440AmpgSgoVL1w4AsoKjyUmzHrhgMs4vSJOuIj_fDZ1o/s1600/8-edge+stitched.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="291" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV3OleTWMhdOEI10k4Oi_oHJSmj6M7CEDel-aBMfvxwNd-wd0CdLvB3ZCJ9b579kkctC_3CTo03hdgMUXkXxePXr8WlntlNi2440AmpgSgoVL1w4AsoKjyUmzHrhgMs4vSJOuIj_fDZ1o/s400/8-edge+stitched.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNJKZyBA7JVx-b6aqVzsRA4rDGkwMPzCjmcNhixAZiqCbN5woZpQ5VdsyKSF45QE6UnDAKMiPYwqnN9xIbG9jFbtMoCCLuNjhsnJE9vUD9a5qpmLMzlyIrXQWF3-1Tax31Srlv7WFRT5Y/s1600/Tailor%2527s+ham.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="128" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNJKZyBA7JVx-b6aqVzsRA4rDGkwMPzCjmcNhixAZiqCbN5woZpQ5VdsyKSF45QE6UnDAKMiPYwqnN9xIbG9jFbtMoCCLuNjhsnJE9vUD9a5qpmLMzlyIrXQWF3-1Tax31Srlv7WFRT5Y/s200/Tailor%2527s+ham.jpg" width="200" /></a>TIP: Before continuing, press the collar assembly over a tailor's ham so the layers will better conform to each other and cooperate when topstitching!</div>
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Horizontally topstitch the collar in even, parallel ¼" increments, pivoting appropriately at the front of the collar.</div>
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The collar should be the exact height for six such rows of even topstitching (done in three operations, since each time two rows combine/coalesce at the front of the collar).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgomFLXmTdJtAMUWXezTr8HfyGvC8leA9KWJ3TBG84q15kR35Ry0K-pblLiTMMFgpMhmWuHY8YwxsSwbtnXXD2NjM5dtqntBnft4G70fI2XVcnCnrpqgsvC0_uDIM5nsNhhk95vULwTYg/s1600/9-topstitched.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgomFLXmTdJtAMUWXezTr8HfyGvC8leA9KWJ3TBG84q15kR35Ry0K-pblLiTMMFgpMhmWuHY8YwxsSwbtnXXD2NjM5dtqntBnft4G70fI2XVcnCnrpqgsvC0_uDIM5nsNhhk95vULwTYg/s400/9-topstitched.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-19-lower-legs.html">Tutorial, part 19 - Lower Legs</a></b><br />
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-21-finishing.html">Tutorial, part 21 - Finishing</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2047910053052640055.post-30942969726109600042015-11-17T12:43:00.002-08:002016-05-22T13:49:23.578-07:00Tutorial, part 19 - Lower Legs<div style="text-align: justify;">
Hem the pant legs <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-18-lower-sleeves.html" target="_blank">as done previously with the sleeves</a></b>. </div>
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Note that when topstitching the hem into place from the wrong side, you will also be stitching over the lower end of the calf pocket!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie5A7UZJ71ely_CYbIDjZZRLOM2RrH0iW-KTGb_UoDwn6_JEiGxZfmGK_J-z27ZhUtS7NYrb1udnJ3DnIEemO9QWT25ShkgwAqzc-vRHI-vJC5ly0q0BlP_2gZwvy26k7OZc87aztDSjM/s1600/1-hemmed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie5A7UZJ71ely_CYbIDjZZRLOM2RrH0iW-KTGb_UoDwn6_JEiGxZfmGK_J-z27ZhUtS7NYrb1udnJ3DnIEemO9QWT25ShkgwAqzc-vRHI-vJC5ly0q0BlP_2gZwvy26k7OZc87aztDSjM/s400/1-hemmed.JPG" width="296" /></a></div>
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Install the leg zipper and leg gusset (piece U) exactly <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-18-lower-sleeves.html" target="_blank">as done previously with the sleeves</a></b>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2g0sMwOmhn6LDKe2ntrMbkMuE2svkAGE0jKZ66jmkq77qzzxQtvVCU7BrqgH4-lpKMiYROakO2HferpkwUgj_4avlxrObcTAA8QuoySiL34yVrIa3Eaf6YPKQhOikR-KEMLbQM4-NcRo/s1600/2-zipper+and+gusset+installed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2g0sMwOmhn6LDKe2ntrMbkMuE2svkAGE0jKZ66jmkq77qzzxQtvVCU7BrqgH4-lpKMiYROakO2HferpkwUgj_4avlxrObcTAA8QuoySiL34yVrIa3Eaf6YPKQhOikR-KEMLbQM4-NcRo/s400/2-zipper+and+gusset+installed.JPG" width="277" /></a></div>
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Prepare, attach, topstitch, edge-stitch, and attach hook-and-loop tape to the leg cuff (piece V) exactly <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-18-lower-sleeves.html" target="_blank">as done previously with the sleeve cuffs</a></b>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc987oKa3VjPHILYCR4Rff1VS_njxeouvfPzE6QtmFfVnWbzZzcX-lqzfHUz9ohFsDam8ojnXTU77Wsg5YMbUREeX5Q_IDb9BAyqrH2AfXFWgyHoyBdLcWx40xDvSop4kNsOLqlsj24cA/s1600/3-Velcro.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc987oKa3VjPHILYCR4Rff1VS_njxeouvfPzE6QtmFfVnWbzZzcX-lqzfHUz9ohFsDam8ojnXTU77Wsg5YMbUREeX5Q_IDb9BAyqrH2AfXFWgyHoyBdLcWx40xDvSop4kNsOLqlsj24cA/s400/3-Velcro.JPG" width="280" /></a></div>
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-18-lower-sleeves.html">Tutorial, part 18 - Lower Sleeves</a></b></div>
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-20-collar.html">Tutorial, part 20 - Collar</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2047910053052640055.post-73084885819797441522015-11-17T12:40:00.004-08:002016-05-22T13:49:19.288-07:00Tutorial, part 18 - Lower Sleeves<div style="text-align: justify;">
As mentioned previously, it is much, <i>much</i> easier to install the sleeve zipper and sleeve gusset before the sleeves are closed!</div>
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Nevertheless, we're obsessive sticklers for screen-accuracy, so that's the method we're presenting to you here. </div>
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Begin by hemming the sleeve by pressing the hem allowance upward, pinning, and sewing through both layers from the wrong side. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpEzghrrEML0DyIyeNmmQMjITjBiNyi1iYXIAQpOf2tTR27h4iHtU0dy8huKo5QiLjg19ntNSjNCsLE8OOQ5SE2iqXDW_l54XOqQqhVz-R_sEiQGBZDmeavcXlV7p98swOr8TOQgb6piw/s1600/1-hemmed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpEzghrrEML0DyIyeNmmQMjITjBiNyi1iYXIAQpOf2tTR27h4iHtU0dy8huKo5QiLjg19ntNSjNCsLE8OOQ5SE2iqXDW_l54XOqQqhVz-R_sEiQGBZDmeavcXlV7p98swOr8TOQgb6piw/s400/1-hemmed.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>NOTE: On <b><a href="http://badwolfcostumes.com/star-trek-enterprise-mens-jumpsuit-sewing-pattern/" target="_blank">our ENT jumpsuit sewing pattern</a></b>, the sleeve's hem allowance is 2 ⅝". This is admittedly an unusual hem allowance, but we allocated it this way because the sleeve cuff is attached to the sleeve after the sleeve is hemmed, so there's actually ⅝" seam allowance at the bottom of the hemmed sleeve! The end result is that the sleeve's topstitched hem will be 2" above the sleeve cuff.</i></div>
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Position the sleeve zipper so its lower edge extends, or nearly extends to, the bottom of the sleeve. </div>
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Install the sleeve zipper in the same manner <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-10-front-zipper-and-facing.html" target="_blank">as done previously with the front zipper</a></b>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin89oEcVjacst7HJhtwXIltjyARXOalJdw9cz9OjK8LjXOQCoCg42jpm4Sh9QvmPU-BEFtkok19gbDthDHtIAViEvBMarow44K5QmJd9K0Wd5c062VhQLGahEqX6Y2M1L6ELuPrlBJu9U/s1600/2-zipper+installed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin89oEcVjacst7HJhtwXIltjyARXOalJdw9cz9OjK8LjXOQCoCg42jpm4Sh9QvmPU-BEFtkok19gbDthDHtIAViEvBMarow44K5QmJd9K0Wd5c062VhQLGahEqX6Y2M1L6ELuPrlBJu9U/s400/2-zipper+installed.JPG" width="323" /></a></div>
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Press the 1" hem allowance of the sleeve gusset (piece S) upward on the wrong side and hem by topstitching through both layers from the wrong side.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUqC-LxRJwSGoi0munxdI4znMcIHYcJyTRtjXhGPK1HXxPcHXvJ9CLTxLmNF1ZQZW0LEYo836ZkduMrNt0Sz8F_kbEE5R87qS6WhipUgyAmWD6J0mCKE595t46-eqBDL_N4MlsjoEhi-c/s1600/3-gusset+hemmed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUqC-LxRJwSGoi0munxdI4znMcIHYcJyTRtjXhGPK1HXxPcHXvJ9CLTxLmNF1ZQZW0LEYo836ZkduMrNt0Sz8F_kbEE5R87qS6WhipUgyAmWD6J0mCKE595t46-eqBDL_N4MlsjoEhi-c/s400/3-gusset+hemmed.JPG" width="248" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKQoYF77oaCi6LHjK7j0CkY-uLlCjSir4vnmnMsXzdepPmYl41OtPjmWNe4YuZIyf6IUmDNbqUmmiqhmMgIuA4G5cQuLUjY7Cvkf-NVe3WDAPBwv1TZv_PzM5Ky1LnQbGREKLghjUwoIU/s1600/4-gusset+pressed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKQoYF77oaCi6LHjK7j0CkY-uLlCjSir4vnmnMsXzdepPmYl41OtPjmWNe4YuZIyf6IUmDNbqUmmiqhmMgIuA4G5cQuLUjY7Cvkf-NVe3WDAPBwv1TZv_PzM5Ky1LnQbGREKLghjUwoIU/s400/4-gusset+pressed.JPG" width="172" /></a></div>
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Fold the sleeve gusset in half vertically and press.</div>
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TIP: Mark, in the manner of your choice, the seam line for the sleeve cuff (⅝" from the bottom of the sleeve).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6ONS-K7P0tAWgYTrakO65jb2NQMa5oO9s18FACU6H_oZtZYuYs7WQjG7Nw9SjSWaa__jYElFRag1LanmKrgREvWaZg9Wcp45i8rfJIG237LagiyOKgWltclIsiHsm3RZvFyANccaaO6Q/s1600/5-SA+marked.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6ONS-K7P0tAWgYTrakO65jb2NQMa5oO9s18FACU6H_oZtZYuYs7WQjG7Nw9SjSWaa__jYElFRag1LanmKrgREvWaZg9Wcp45i8rfJIG237LagiyOKgWltclIsiHsm3RZvFyANccaaO6Q/s400/5-SA+marked.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The installation process for the sleeve gusset is basically the same <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-10-front-zipper-and-facing.html" target="_blank">as done previously with the front facing</a></b>, except for the sleeve gusset should be positioned so its outer edges are ¼" inside those of the sleeve's seam allowance.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYLYgjjW0hyphenhyphensujJJD_MHcws5yeKggCu1dxY1KYz_JLizMdX4ZTfzA2fsUvd4x596a3u8AdNWmvhqxXHPs2q1GXdNrjDw4ccLnFz0SBBUxVStNu7AxVtOiNsuceR84oStYmPqAgLD9g3aw/s1600/6-gusset+positioned.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYLYgjjW0hyphenhyphensujJJD_MHcws5yeKggCu1dxY1KYz_JLizMdX4ZTfzA2fsUvd4x596a3u8AdNWmvhqxXHPs2q1GXdNrjDw4ccLnFz0SBBUxVStNu7AxVtOiNsuceR84oStYmPqAgLD9g3aw/s400/6-gusset+positioned.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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(This is because the sleeve gusset has ⅝" seam allowance, but the outer sleeve's lower seam allowance was widened to ⅞" on each to side to accommodate the sleeve zipper.)</div>
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Vertically position the sleeve gusset so its lower edge is slightly above the sleeve/sleeve cuff seam line. </div>
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Fold the two seam allowances upward and pin them together from the "wrong" side - that is, the underside of the sleeve/zipper opening seam allowances.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMCoTikGL4VRIjsena-dZC7RLXeLRlLw5CbulGrMIDjmWIPHBVm0Fqttvx1BBUKocfcyPQlTS0ljQk1qyXOQSAQI_nwIBhSWy-boWDVRABEyCvZS5V0XjmUnKB4pKE-t5aP2nVeUckqsI/s1600/7a-gusset+pinned.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMCoTikGL4VRIjsena-dZC7RLXeLRlLw5CbulGrMIDjmWIPHBVm0Fqttvx1BBUKocfcyPQlTS0ljQk1qyXOQSAQI_nwIBhSWy-boWDVRABEyCvZS5V0XjmUnKB4pKE-t5aP2nVeUckqsI/s400/7a-gusset+pinned.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcniEoAjP174z1K_wgZUQ3FVD3A_dHQJoi0IrY9Ov0PZ4NFzZjqMyTrUPUbB3fvifn8YXE3CJwmZ8Cwg-JuCI7GCa-BYLMNQ_eyGPOT19N0kAQ9JmYg0K3W45Xx-gRcJlJ_aFCo0IDDa4/s1600/7b-gusset+pinned.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcniEoAjP174z1K_wgZUQ3FVD3A_dHQJoi0IrY9Ov0PZ4NFzZjqMyTrUPUbB3fvifn8YXE3CJwmZ8Cwg-JuCI7GCa-BYLMNQ_eyGPOT19N0kAQ9JmYg0K3W45Xx-gRcJlJ_aFCo0IDDa4/s400/7b-gusset+pinned.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Position and pin the other side of the sleeve gusset in the same manner.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYuD7RGzKnYGhm9OUrP4HXrjcvk_4GIw7hsxIN3gCN65Fumy9W3YvLOo2G0DId_6zMyYN-88CUTJZilhvzHRD1FvmFi4lK6yyhYeY5Gpxbcu2OHGXLuMf1MT2qHDj1dk5QYF3gvDnnphI/s1600/8-both+sides+pinned.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="287" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYuD7RGzKnYGhm9OUrP4HXrjcvk_4GIw7hsxIN3gCN65Fumy9W3YvLOo2G0DId_6zMyYN-88CUTJZilhvzHRD1FvmFi4lK6yyhYeY5Gpxbcu2OHGXLuMf1MT2qHDj1dk5QYF3gvDnnphI/s400/8-both+sides+pinned.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Using your zipper/piping foot, sew the facing to the center front as closely to the previous stitch line as possible. (This will be just shy of ⅞" from the edges.)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifT0x0dnYOR8ZKFV-OvXQN98gWBHaFGerj6m4haXrVA4agpPwAF2pZTbvfLK6_Lit6N627Q0_r_qT8aasWHCqXZ8uB3Ds-I38Hzx3zHp-cprwAsHqWrHSJOXHSYAq7kAn0OMpeWXQlthk/s1600/9a-sewing+gusset+to+SA.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="383" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifT0x0dnYOR8ZKFV-OvXQN98gWBHaFGerj6m4haXrVA4agpPwAF2pZTbvfLK6_Lit6N627Q0_r_qT8aasWHCqXZ8uB3Ds-I38Hzx3zHp-cprwAsHqWrHSJOXHSYAq7kAn0OMpeWXQlthk/s400/9a-sewing+gusset+to+SA.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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TIP: Although it may involve some curving, "cheating," and somewhat uneven stitching, extend the stitch line upward onto the sleeve's seam allowances above the sleeve zipper! (See next photo.)</div>
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The underside of your sleeve, with the sleeve gusset attached, should now look something like this:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2DXZpkIeMuGFUSIslN4UPYTLfCPW3z_DdUwBegoDh-eWFEyoqzJU1mwguRE2vHsKAHdzHC4DogvRiZ4IUhY9KopiU-gzPIEJqOQp731tep7xz8cWuby0xNKZlfwJH6Y9eOvpz7x0BudY/s1600/9b-gusset+sewn+to+SA.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2DXZpkIeMuGFUSIslN4UPYTLfCPW3z_DdUwBegoDh-eWFEyoqzJU1mwguRE2vHsKAHdzHC4DogvRiZ4IUhY9KopiU-gzPIEJqOQp731tep7xz8cWuby0xNKZlfwJH6Y9eOvpz7x0BudY/s400/9b-gusset+sewn+to+SA.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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And your sleeve gusset should look something like this from the right side:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6GA6yqaIZqqYEinM15g-fMuqYk1HQKoDAqgIoUTYvWg2wNAwF-OXyeuTivmCnmdt9H7ZlYTV5yZlKW_ur74xxNSAbemq80vz5OTeDs_bZ4N16BlJX28FUIPbFsIQytat1_VYCcX2FIww/s1600/10-gusset+attached.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6GA6yqaIZqqYEinM15g-fMuqYk1HQKoDAqgIoUTYvWg2wNAwF-OXyeuTivmCnmdt9H7ZlYTV5yZlKW_ur74xxNSAbemq80vz5OTeDs_bZ4N16BlJX28FUIPbFsIQytat1_VYCcX2FIww/s400/10-gusset+attached.JPG" width="290" /></a></div>
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Topstitch through all layers ¼" from the edge of the sleeve zipper around the entirety of its perimeter, catching the sleeve gusset's seam allowance in the stitching.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4x81UvRo0c-dgSV-2ipmAboH5mWfjGCvUfx7YblgL2y4jKJTfctg_I1CfkNDdWzO_6oi2Vr6DMZ8GC935VZRwzEgOOK9TnQpJfr7HQEYNvz3X1Ha-Fxw3fHaXfrwIPezecBCOslvi0ms/s1600/11-topstitched.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4x81UvRo0c-dgSV-2ipmAboH5mWfjGCvUfx7YblgL2y4jKJTfctg_I1CfkNDdWzO_6oi2Vr6DMZ8GC935VZRwzEgOOK9TnQpJfr7HQEYNvz3X1Ha-Fxw3fHaXfrwIPezecBCOslvi0ms/s400/11-topstitched.JPG" width="305" /></a></div>
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Fold the sleeve cuff (piece T) in half, right sides together, so the long edges are flush. Do not press!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2te7arGfBgi-SMNIiQ-BszF-MqIBJAzbV1nqXI7-4BhpkRyBZKnrZEGgTHh2c4DORVRMznGCD2MBdMy75rtTwdozhdbRyXjBblxfEQhIUDfSx2QeW_mhYO5ZSGEhdGyxb0MFxOxgUc-M/s1600/12-sleeve+cuff+marked.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="97" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2te7arGfBgi-SMNIiQ-BszF-MqIBJAzbV1nqXI7-4BhpkRyBZKnrZEGgTHh2c4DORVRMznGCD2MBdMy75rtTwdozhdbRyXjBblxfEQhIUDfSx2QeW_mhYO5ZSGEhdGyxb0MFxOxgUc-M/s400/12-sleeve+cuff+marked.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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TIP: Mark the sleeve/sleeve cuff seam line in the manner of your choice! (See above.)</div>
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Sew the sleeve cuff closed at the sides, stitching from the folded edge to the sleeve/sleeve cuff seam line.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS062lRdjIMetuBJmubkyrw7wLwC07zms9ZhQfmzaqjwBmAOC_EsZ5fOw8IF_YUXpsPMciRUTM5bayuJVW_UxQvVyDEj3GOjHNQOtxax9wAPwpkVawjtUKq14nasfV4s0Ouqn0AjX9UGs/s1600/13-sleeve+cuff+sewn.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="100" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS062lRdjIMetuBJmubkyrw7wLwC07zms9ZhQfmzaqjwBmAOC_EsZ5fOw8IF_YUXpsPMciRUTM5bayuJVW_UxQvVyDEj3GOjHNQOtxax9wAPwpkVawjtUKq14nasfV4s0Ouqn0AjX9UGs/s400/13-sleeve+cuff+sewn.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Trim the seam allowances at the corners.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIJCfvPrpq5lylkr-Sr_1qBjicB97CEFX5qEeBqfatZ3Tqldbpzg9nt1YWW7YPdBYu5zP_3XGyxD62aXzj6XcXSDpW6yZsHYp9LJzeLlgfeCb-wycyk12avN_udzSTRNl_scsPfy7ftRM/s1600/14-sleeve+cuff+SA+clipped.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="107" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIJCfvPrpq5lylkr-Sr_1qBjicB97CEFX5qEeBqfatZ3Tqldbpzg9nt1YWW7YPdBYu5zP_3XGyxD62aXzj6XcXSDpW6yZsHYp9LJzeLlgfeCb-wycyk12avN_udzSTRNl_scsPfy7ftRM/s400/14-sleeve+cuff+SA+clipped.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Turn the sleeve cuff right-sides-out (poking those corners out as sharply as possible!) and press.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsU7OVSVPkrfwLwuZxjs6NY1u0x4-e306oeLMNv4s6U5xMbRCq3qEQzpYvDRBRHi1SUwwR6kqPaBQ1070XpJavdFaLsZC0mk6IDXSDZZnr31sWGFIrwrk31XAtw2fXKeP5rkoBeE2OxG8/s1600/15-sleeve+cuff+turned+and+pressed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="106" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsU7OVSVPkrfwLwuZxjs6NY1u0x4-e306oeLMNv4s6U5xMbRCq3qEQzpYvDRBRHi1SUwwR6kqPaBQ1070XpJavdFaLsZC0mk6IDXSDZZnr31sWGFIrwrk31XAtw2fXKeP5rkoBeE2OxG8/s400/15-sleeve+cuff+turned+and+pressed.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Press one end's seam allowance under.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkKELhyphenhyphenl7fkKQ5-t6-wS1Y49tdAHI7AouZ_KqQbcgzMc7EoWnuXuMxLJjdbEVoVcxmNjHbsI_LIQhlhAj2SH7eDEZtciW38LGnWsV3dsP_TTwyAdOwb467vQFDitOg3K0ZY7yb52LoeRo/s1600/16-sleeve+cuff+SA+pressed+under.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="110" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkKELhyphenhyphenl7fkKQ5-t6-wS1Y49tdAHI7AouZ_KqQbcgzMc7EoWnuXuMxLJjdbEVoVcxmNjHbsI_LIQhlhAj2SH7eDEZtciW38LGnWsV3dsP_TTwyAdOwb467vQFDitOg3K0ZY7yb52LoeRo/s400/16-sleeve+cuff+SA+pressed+under.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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TIP: Think ahead about grading the seam allowances and trim this edge's down to ⅜" before pressing under!</div>
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Pin, then sew the sleeve cuff to the bottom of the sleeve, right sides together, with the front of the sleeve cuff overlapping the back. </div>
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(Yes, the back edge of the sleeve cuff should "encompass" the end of the sleeve zipper, so the zipper gets sewn into the cuff.)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzPzQXwbcC6YecZtpDtNdTVra8AzZ_AzTvVtB8LhiLinDE3kVg3NgJKgjkwNBHqLPapq7tJfZ4ZSOMxZGOJi5v4IPf4h60jl2HsZDtYSBPtvBPW7oJpLfeeows070nQFwTUKmEU3HSTfI/s1600/17-sleeve+cuff+sewn+to+sleeve.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzPzQXwbcC6YecZtpDtNdTVra8AzZ_AzTvVtB8LhiLinDE3kVg3NgJKgjkwNBHqLPapq7tJfZ4ZSOMxZGOJi5v4IPf4h60jl2HsZDtYSBPtvBPW7oJpLfeeows070nQFwTUKmEU3HSTfI/s400/17-sleeve+cuff+sewn+to+sleeve.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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TIP: Grade the seam allowances to reduce the accumulated bulk at the bottom of the sleeve! We recommend trimming the sleeve cuff's seam allowance down to ¼" and the sleeve's seam allowance down to ⅜". Alternatively, you can leave the sleeve's seam allowance as-is and trim one end of the sleeve cuff to ⅜" before pressing it under.</div>
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Press the sleeve cuff downward, away from the sleeve. </div>
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Matching upper edges on the right and wrong sides, pin the upper edge of the sleeve cuff to the upper edge of its "self-facing" on the wrong side.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKUtnjLu5VFdhynQBfjcPfiZ3mLkklMJiIbZtWvFtUpmrirYzxZ4owsg3qgfml8GoTJKlz6BCSk0A_rg7dalTU8HheeYCa_Z4vU0qsZM8HYPdgTNjvw-Z5npHDtcVJEpqzaqEBA3Xag-8/s1600/18a-pinned.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKUtnjLu5VFdhynQBfjcPfiZ3mLkklMJiIbZtWvFtUpmrirYzxZ4owsg3qgfml8GoTJKlz6BCSk0A_rg7dalTU8HheeYCa_Z4vU0qsZM8HYPdgTNjvw-Z5npHDtcVJEpqzaqEBA3Xag-8/s400/18a-pinned.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Edge-stitch the upper edge of the sleeve cuff, catching the upper edge of the "self-facing" in the stitch. </div>
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You can also edge-stitch the side edges of the cuff at this point, or save it for last.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWx5wuIf0SArgeiut3BOm78T94GNS604FUnQ6J0Dfbseu_dEDsiZyWkpm_MG37wdOdcUXebsxa-qwloCTHNtgIH7LF8rTwN7qOtXu43Xcyhi0zVmfqNHy9gQUa0dlbZgp9oJWUwO93gms/s1600/18b-edge+stitched.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWx5wuIf0SArgeiut3BOm78T94GNS604FUnQ6J0Dfbseu_dEDsiZyWkpm_MG37wdOdcUXebsxa-qwloCTHNtgIH7LF8rTwN7qOtXu43Xcyhi0zVmfqNHy9gQUa0dlbZgp9oJWUwO93gms/s400/18b-edge+stitched.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZVepwm939aEx7YVoltdDWUxxEMg1BR20haM_K7IvFzlUJIhyphenhyphenxaZqVAtwydezQ_nnNdHKLn1hLvoxAWT2Ks5UppmpxhOdoMlHtwxXW11OH_4WvbBboY3yBIKv_yC076L0BJfcg3Ubj9nk/s1600/Tailor%2527s+ham.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="128" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZVepwm939aEx7YVoltdDWUxxEMg1BR20haM_K7IvFzlUJIhyphenhyphenxaZqVAtwydezQ_nnNdHKLn1hLvoxAWT2Ks5UppmpxhOdoMlHtwxXW11OH_4WvbBboY3yBIKv_yC076L0BJfcg3Ubj9nk/s200/Tailor%2527s+ham.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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TIP: Before continuing, press the sleeve cuff over a tailor's ham so the layers will better conform to each other and cooperate when topstitching!</div>
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Horizontally topstitch the sleeve cuff in even, parallel ¼" increments. The sleeve cuff should be the exact height for six such rows of even topstitching. </div>
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Edge-stitch the bottom of the sleeve cuff, as well as the sides (if you didn't already.)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikBbGrsTc3tHfh8H6uzqmAcfGf2BrRmL49IDWDW_tyNtg3ClxH8STTeBs1FVbybpwZsm4FhjudLEmA7qhSwu0rlwladFwuIy6LBUDJhli4wb-51sYpSLPm8zGm2bpYIEgYdEJ67g1Nxug/s1600/19-topstitched.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="388" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikBbGrsTc3tHfh8H6uzqmAcfGf2BrRmL49IDWDW_tyNtg3ClxH8STTeBs1FVbybpwZsm4FhjudLEmA7qhSwu0rlwladFwuIy6LBUDJhli4wb-51sYpSLPm8zGm2bpYIEgYdEJ67g1Nxug/s400/19-topstitched.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Cut a short length of ¾" black hook-and-loop tape ("Velcro") for the sleeve cuff overlap. </div>
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Position it so it's vertically centered and extends close to the edge of the overlap. </div>
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Topstitch the hook-and-loop tape into place through all layers.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Z9g_k4cXHVKKdYOOGoUvXdCJixgzC22KoJl-1JbG4MhCL0GYaxU8phWULO5BxnBY362i63VG52Yg1fhQ4Eyl7njvGNLAXUu3HpGvfGb-O00q-MT4wgj-kXLZWTinr_s0KOm3R8qTXrY/s1600/20-Velcro.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="311" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Z9g_k4cXHVKKdYOOGoUvXdCJixgzC22KoJl-1JbG4MhCL0GYaxU8phWULO5BxnBY362i63VG52Yg1fhQ4Eyl7njvGNLAXUu3HpGvfGb-O00q-MT4wgj-kXLZWTinr_s0KOm3R8qTXrY/s400/20-Velcro.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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TIP: Try to work it out so the upper and lower stitch lines for the hook-and-loop tape are exactly over the previous rows of topstitching, but if not, no worries. The originals were all over the place, too. It's just a nice extra little bit of finesse. </div>
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Repeat for the other side.</div>
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-17-close-inseam.html">Tutorial, part 17 - Close Inseam</a></b></div>
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-19-lower-legs.html">Tutorial, part 19 - Lower Legs</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2047910053052640055.post-15429676283202619182015-11-17T12:24:00.002-08:002016-05-22T13:49:14.564-07:00Tutorial, part 17 - Close Inseam<div style="text-align: justify;">
Sew the jumpsuit's inseam closed, matching raw edges and seam lines. </div>
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Press seam allowances open. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBn5wA7Ua5K3YQHDQ_GuT_8vUh0NGymkGHVlXAeKITmQJ8JS1alZk5WGwJ2b7LsKgF8RnDlm_OeloBXXvr8KhJMqYvSGADucrzts2OQdNg_v_xBvH1zpsDkUyca29U6P7VKGSyafgb-TQ/s1600/2a-almost+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBn5wA7Ua5K3YQHDQ_GuT_8vUh0NGymkGHVlXAeKITmQJ8JS1alZk5WGwJ2b7LsKgF8RnDlm_OeloBXXvr8KhJMqYvSGADucrzts2OQdNg_v_xBvH1zpsDkUyca29U6P7VKGSyafgb-TQ/s400/2a-almost+2.jpg" width="171" /></a>As you've probably noticed, it's really starting to come together now ... excited yet?!?</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8xujRsWOvpClW8HnEZ1RMf9IBqjYxISH4vZrFnN1Apm0l5bdJ4Q3Q31FG0Y07qepa_2Hx_IHNjV5MtLXSyhKlNd4CJEmW2tpCUvXc8H69MaspuDqLlKAGwXqUnkrgxe1dfcvAGAqjpG8/s1600/2c-almost.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8xujRsWOvpClW8HnEZ1RMf9IBqjYxISH4vZrFnN1Apm0l5bdJ4Q3Q31FG0Y07qepa_2Hx_IHNjV5MtLXSyhKlNd4CJEmW2tpCUvXc8H69MaspuDqLlKAGwXqUnkrgxe1dfcvAGAqjpG8/s400/2c-almost.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-16-calf-pockets.html">Tutorial, part 16 - Calf Pockets</a></b></div>
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-18-lower-sleeves.html">Tutorial, part 18 - Lower Sleeves</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2047910053052640055.post-28781978627589577782015-11-17T12:23:00.001-08:002016-05-22T13:49:10.184-07:00Tutorial, part 16 - Calf Pockets<div style="text-align: justify;">
As mentioned during our zipper installation tutorial, the calf pockets' zippers are installed differently than the chest, thigh, and right sleeve pockets. </div>
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Begin by interfacing the zipper area (if you choose to do so).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdPNpWf4y_zZC7fDWEloQALLCNbFGRaL-faHIS5YTRk58tHJn2SkNC-Zw6Xa_M4SNOYm83sxeBZSvhoQSnscml8eUvV5b2G341WxQ8IJUaySI3qOiROQQkLvraM0uJv9GIozIBcZ7IzRI/s1600/1-interfaced.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdPNpWf4y_zZC7fDWEloQALLCNbFGRaL-faHIS5YTRk58tHJn2SkNC-Zw6Xa_M4SNOYm83sxeBZSvhoQSnscml8eUvV5b2G341WxQ8IJUaySI3qOiROQQkLvraM0uJv9GIozIBcZ7IzRI/s400/1-interfaced.JPG" width="326" /></a></div>
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Mark the edges of the zipper opening on the wrong side and/or interfacing with a disappearing ink fabric marker. Note that the extends all the way to the centermost edge of the pocket!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX45WIVEI9cb3i5Y5PAoWaoDuD9TgKuavVkRxS0bYLINmYlYGVKUYqv9a4UnY8iJa1zuHfiK7WCuYP1HSPiAmBig3W0aguBa3q906LxcyuAAjveQnF0A4WM2kklAp7UWanvSh-e6xbkhg/s1600/2-zipper+opening+marked.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX45WIVEI9cb3i5Y5PAoWaoDuD9TgKuavVkRxS0bYLINmYlYGVKUYqv9a4UnY8iJa1zuHfiK7WCuYP1HSPiAmBig3W0aguBa3q906LxcyuAAjveQnF0A4WM2kklAp7UWanvSh-e6xbkhg/s400/2-zipper+opening+marked.JPG" width="326" /></a></div>
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TIP: On our pattern, the zipper is positioned such that its upper edge is 1" beneath the top of the calf pocket (1 ⅝" beneath the upper raw edge), and its side edge is ½" from the side edge of the calf pocket (1 ⅛" from the side raw edge).</div>
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TIP: At this point, you can use any of the optional "aids" from <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-2-zipper-installation.html" target="_blank">our zipper installation tutorial</a></b>.</div>
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Beginning <i>at the centermost edge of the pocket</i>, cut the zipper opening halfway between the two lines you marked, cutting diagonally to the corners about ½" from each end of the opening (forming little triangles).</div>
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Fold the cut edges to the underside and firmly press.</div>
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Press the pocket's hem allowances under. Note that there's no hem allowance on the bottom edge!</div>
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TIP: We recommend pressing the upper hem allowance under first, then the sides.</div>
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Cut off the top of a (length of) zipper so that there's no metal stop at the top and the top edge is flat. </div>
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Unzip the zipper slightly and position the zipper such that its new "top" is flush with the centermost (open) edge of the pocket's zipper opening. </div>
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Cut the other end of the zipper such that it overhangs the zipper opening by about ½" and extends almost to the other edge of the pocket.</div>
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Apply liquid fray preventer to the "top" (open end) of the zipper tape. </div>
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TIP: Until the zipper ends are secured, be careful not to accidentally "zip" or "unzip" your zipper too far so the pull comes off!</div>
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Secure the zipper in place using ¼" double-sided tape.</div>
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Edge-stitch the zipper to the pocket around the entirety of its perimeter.</div>
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Mark the pocket's positioning on the lower front pant leg in the manner of your choice (we prefer tailor's chalk). </div>
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The lower (raw) edge of the pocket should be flush with the pant leg's hem line, 2 ⅝" above the bottom (raw) edge of the pant leg. The side/outer edge of the pocket should be flush with the folded edge of the leg zipper/gusset seam allowance, ⅞" from the outer (raw) edge of the pant leg.</div>
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(Ignore those weird parallel, angular lines. I accidentally rolled over the pant leg with my chair - be careful! Like pretty much all large garments, this thing gets progressively more unwieldy as it comes together! Fortunately, in this case, the blemish will be hidden underneath the calf pocket and hem allowance.)</div>
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Place the calf pocket on top of the pant leg with its lower and side/outer edges flush with the alignment guide you just marked.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKoEAPQpVHWUYYq03tdHf1-oPBD7f7a3NU7uIbrwAEn1xu8CFHShT8YUCraRXXTIfci0Vx5Q7ZrTYTITu4rlT6HGYFKRazSX9Ww_OuXhQunMYN_xpL463iF_xKIhKkUBEiCuQy2E8VV3k/s1600/10-pocket+positioned.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKoEAPQpVHWUYYq03tdHf1-oPBD7f7a3NU7uIbrwAEn1xu8CFHShT8YUCraRXXTIfci0Vx5Q7ZrTYTITu4rlT6HGYFKRazSX9Ww_OuXhQunMYN_xpL463iF_xKIhKkUBEiCuQy2E8VV3k/s400/10-pocket+positioned.JPG" width="328" /></a></div>
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Pin and/or baste the calf pocket into place around the entirety of its perimeter.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJPga6TU1uYVmE7bOCI1vRgLoLnnwSd74wIsa_-7jBLiIJze-b6ktjIdUZAyyl50eBdgihxsxO0ZvBMCuj8ZwZvAhBmMxSc-okp5qokj7DoaMWLFwPj-2tO-Q3MzJX4nqMinF-rNHQ1Uk/s1600/11-pinned.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJPga6TU1uYVmE7bOCI1vRgLoLnnwSd74wIsa_-7jBLiIJze-b6ktjIdUZAyyl50eBdgihxsxO0ZvBMCuj8ZwZvAhBmMxSc-okp5qokj7DoaMWLFwPj-2tO-Q3MzJX4nqMinF-rNHQ1Uk/s400/11-pinned.JPG" width="323" /></a></div>
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Edge-stitch the calf pocket to the pant leg around the entirety of its perimeter, reinforcing the stitch several times over the open ends of the zipper tape to create a firm, sturdy "zipper stop."</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_953zbpQy3F_Z-iUY1fe1Ko8SqKevFQv2Hf9W4W74xlSkAWAmSdiCk4i-PWRDa1A1KI2A-0ydreamYfqa5Wp_sFX5hhDiiZtsFWs9-PFsn9qa3d50ioKl8UpKzX7d3GpekUbbH65ldmE/s1600/12a-edge+stitched.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_953zbpQy3F_Z-iUY1fe1Ko8SqKevFQv2Hf9W4W74xlSkAWAmSdiCk4i-PWRDa1A1KI2A-0ydreamYfqa5Wp_sFX5hhDiiZtsFWs9-PFsn9qa3d50ioKl8UpKzX7d3GpekUbbH65ldmE/s400/12a-edge+stitched.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here's a close-up photo of the stitched "zipper stop":</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnXdIn5O6rZYIl36q9S3eDtLdhL_KajewXlWuBtMZmV5prHwjLXg2edXF2MI5qAnwewnq7Gx_Vxp6sOeH5gHnTRmx2JwiAr0ujnl2Ub0rX9kMBx0it1uClp7FfkxTb6JjXBx32DrMm8tY/s1600/12b-zipper+close.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="302" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnXdIn5O6rZYIl36q9S3eDtLdhL_KajewXlWuBtMZmV5prHwjLXg2edXF2MI5qAnwewnq7Gx_Vxp6sOeH5gHnTRmx2JwiAr0ujnl2Ub0rX9kMBx0it1uClp7FfkxTb6JjXBx32DrMm8tY/s400/12b-zipper+close.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Lastly, horizontally topstitch through all layers ¼" from the upper edge of the pocket. </div>
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(Note that, unlike the chest, thigh, and right sleeve pockets, this is done on the upper edge only! You can do it on the lower edge if you want, but it'll never be seen since it gets sewn into the leg cuff.)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqQo6M5pDUT_X1iaOdpfiJDFnNHopM92MvBzo_uXIiFEhyWVNR5dmTPv_ngk3GEqh-k8Ekv4wH3iIVUA4ImESV7wmrvKDPMEtZML8h_0WuXJrF9VF4yZaM2eSTa9A98nRwgTIpPnORam4/s1600/13-topstitched.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqQo6M5pDUT_X1iaOdpfiJDFnNHopM92MvBzo_uXIiFEhyWVNR5dmTPv_ngk3GEqh-k8Ekv4wH3iIVUA4ImESV7wmrvKDPMEtZML8h_0WuXJrF9VF4yZaM2eSTa9A98nRwgTIpPnORam4/s400/13-topstitched.JPG" width="333" /></a></div>
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Repeat for the other side.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgPLD3DB_cp5-BhBFfXyO3urxZu72DN-rd6VqUmjCkMWM6Cgp4vgOriwD1SBQk5LzbIDqcnH0B6-hrgm34WFCpN0Znnuwoirzcaqh0mvU81G1O0D4434WUzABuFS0tiuXDIFu7CWhqrUI/s1600/14-repeated.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgPLD3DB_cp5-BhBFfXyO3urxZu72DN-rd6VqUmjCkMWM6Cgp4vgOriwD1SBQk5LzbIDqcnH0B6-hrgm34WFCpN0Znnuwoirzcaqh0mvU81G1O0D4434WUzABuFS0tiuXDIFu7CWhqrUI/s400/14-repeated.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-15-close-sides.html">Tutorial, part 15 - Close Sides</a></b></div>
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-17-close-inseam.html">Tutorial, part 17- Close Inseam</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2047910053052640055.post-91092552990034262872015-11-17T12:13:00.002-08:002016-05-22T13:49:04.958-07:00Tutorial, part 15 - Close Sides<div style="text-align: justify;">
Identify the top of the leg zipper opening (indicated on the printed pattern - this is 14 ⅝" above the hemmed pant leg, or 17 ¼" above the bottom of the raw edge of the un-hemmed pang leg). </div>
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Chalk mark the top of the opening onto the wrong side of the pant legs. </div>
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Pin the front and back assemblies (but NOT the waist straps - pull those out of the way!) together along the side/inner sleeve edges, right sides together, matching armscye and upper leg zipper edges exactly and with the bottom of the back elastic waistband even with the bottom edge of the lower waist strap. </div>
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Sew the jumpsuit's sides and inner sleeves closed - again, pulling the waist straps out of the way so they're NOT sewn into the seam! </div>
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Press the seam allowances open. </div>
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Prepare the leg zipper opening exactly <a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-12-front-to-back.html" style="font-weight: bold;" target="_blank">as done previously with the sleeve zipper opening</a>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEYPt__r7KGNVCViCraZB7HF1avOGPhYswk68oXGbOI1EwJhVQRzgZUX99RG1VXIpjAaeEjnzqCaBLuJtt0iOPEgQJdPxMIsl7edwEKnGGrn9p39cEN2JcslcK5zSAx18yaG_H1TF9lzo/s1600/1-leg+zipper+opening.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="323" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEYPt__r7KGNVCViCraZB7HF1avOGPhYswk68oXGbOI1EwJhVQRzgZUX99RG1VXIpjAaeEjnzqCaBLuJtt0iOPEgQJdPxMIsl7edwEKnGGrn9p39cEN2JcslcK5zSAx18yaG_H1TF9lzo/s400/1-leg+zipper+opening.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>NOTE: As with the sleeves, it is much, MUCH easier to install the leg zippers and leg gussets (piece U) now, as opposed to later as demonstrated in this tutorial. It also prevents some inevitable "wear-and-tear" on the corners of the leg zipper opening between now and when the zipper is installed. We are presenting the steps in this order solely because it appears to be the order in which the screen-used originals were constructed. </i></div>
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<i>However, you can save yourself some frustration by "cheating" and installing the leg zippers and leg gussets now as described in step 19. Just position your leg zipper so its bottom edge is 2 ¾" from the bottom of the un-hemmed pant leg, attach the leg gusset, and hem the pant leg after the calf pockets are attached and the jumpsuit's inseam is closed. </i></div>
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<i>The only difference will be that the leg zipper/gusset seam allowance will be sandwiched between the pant leg and the pant leg's hem allowance, as opposed to the hem allowance being sandwiched between the pant leg and pant leg zipper/gusset seam allowance. (Seriously, it is highly unlikely that anybody will notice, especially if you don't turn your sleeve inside-out for an expert to inspect!) </i></div>
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Turn your jumpsuit right-side-out again. </div>
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Pull your waist straps toward the back and finish edge-stitching their upper and lower edges to the side seams (remember how <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-5-waist-straps.html" target="_blank">we recommended "leaving them hanging" a little bit back in step 5</a></b>?)</div>
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Then, further fasten the waist straps to the jumpsuit body via a vertical topstitch across each stripe as close to the side seam as reasonably possible (the elastic waistband adds some bulk at the side seam that can make the area a bit difficult to navigate).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGlIlh8sa1qaVBd6sB6vqkbdfLIwRwcGYWOT_B5fMDknw-Tc1TPiGW0nbaI_-kE3v6gDnDsBgdPEpvQPvyEOkl8KFuiwrC48SktGEsqFx2-oXiNsfx34HNzQIHlPj2RJEBdlXz9zyWhnw/s1600/2-waist+straps+fastened.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGlIlh8sa1qaVBd6sB6vqkbdfLIwRwcGYWOT_B5fMDknw-Tc1TPiGW0nbaI_-kE3v6gDnDsBgdPEpvQPvyEOkl8KFuiwrC48SktGEsqFx2-oXiNsfx34HNzQIHlPj2RJEBdlXz9zyWhnw/s400/2-waist+straps+fastened.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-14-assignment-patch.html">Tutorial, part 14 - Assignment Patch</a></b></div>
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-16-calf-pockets.html">Tutorial, part 16 - Calf Pockets</a></b></div>
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Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2047910053052640055.post-88901472382164772002015-11-17T12:10:00.003-08:002016-05-22T13:48:59.610-07:00Tutorial, part 14 - Assignment Patch<div style="text-align: justify;">
Position your assignment patch of choice (obviously the <i>Enterprise</i>, in our case) on the upper left sleeve so its upper edge is about ⅝" beneath the lower edge of the division stripe, and it's centered over the shoulder/outer sleeve seam. (It can be as high as ⅜" beneath the stripe, and as low as ¾" beneath the division stripe, but we prefer ⅝.")</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo79vczvmX6NdTtskJSIlmhBa-U2JwFJQVMB2hcwaWV4nSxJ-3YZ-VhEHCuSFK_D05JCTITw3qF-G6Zh_5jVRy3k6ys65h51kXdscbmrTrSSV9-EicIYsWZZGYCD6sA5BOn6L3BJfSS2Y/s1600/1a-patch+topstitched.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo79vczvmX6NdTtskJSIlmhBa-U2JwFJQVMB2hcwaWV4nSxJ-3YZ-VhEHCuSFK_D05JCTITw3qF-G6Zh_5jVRy3k6ys65h51kXdscbmrTrSSV9-EicIYsWZZGYCD6sA5BOn6L3BJfSS2Y/s400/1a-patch+topstitched.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Using light gray thread, edge-stitch around the perimeter of the patch to secure it to the sleeve.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitvk5UaiLVUNXi3Ih_euUZLKEyQ_ZEPu7B0yBs4on7tY0FCJKa9A5Z2EGqgkMWWIcrz2RW4N89ccoeq2Ahmj8OXMigMxgKiAOpIc5mFMhM1N1-Qh_BP0sVZJcdIuG5utpOgeuy21mCFPA/s1600/1b-patch+topstitching.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitvk5UaiLVUNXi3Ih_euUZLKEyQ_ZEPu7B0yBs4on7tY0FCJKa9A5Z2EGqgkMWWIcrz2RW4N89ccoeq2Ahmj8OXMigMxgKiAOpIc5mFMhM1N1-Qh_BP0sVZJcdIuG5utpOgeuy21mCFPA/s400/1b-patch+topstitching.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg_8lXkeYnBVajxEDt9UmIreuXZ5_HrXN6X8Tw1LT8LCjsGQE2ImcveTGTo4SJ3AzdhYLtCKWIDaXOcgJUsj0Fgj_e0Fsrr3DejeV3P01XXbk74WFWA0iDvzsLj42iNEu2bta8_jVkxeo/s1600/spray+adhesive+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg_8lXkeYnBVajxEDt9UmIreuXZ5_HrXN6X8Tw1LT8LCjsGQE2ImcveTGTo4SJ3AzdhYLtCKWIDaXOcgJUsj0Fgj_e0Fsrr3DejeV3P01XXbk74WFWA0iDvzsLj42iNEu2bta8_jVkxeo/s200/spray+adhesive+2.jpg" width="53" /></a>TIP: Use some fabric spray adhesive on the back of the patch to help it stay in place while sewing it onto the sleeve!</div>
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-13-right-sleeve-pocket.html">Tutorial, part 13 - Right Sleeve Pocket</a></b></div>
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-15-close-sides.html">Tutorial, part 15 - Close Sides</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2047910053052640055.post-9100469986581077512015-11-17T12:08:00.003-08:002016-05-22T13:48:53.681-07:00Tutorial, part 13 - Right Sleeve Pocket<div style="text-align: justify;">
The right sleeve pocket's construction is similar to that of the chest and thigh pockets, except for both the front and back edges are "expanding." </div>
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First, install the right thigh pocket zipper as per <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-2-zipper-installation.html" target="_blank">our zipper installation tutorial</a></b>. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMMXmnV56FdJSTY1HleGshTO7-Jb6cg1fIV8fps5_dRNUjUXGh_6W4R7o7XoYoatmFzSNiSBHQHBdVMl6KpCv7YJ0i2ncrPykD-P1pnnhKCbhXUuCz4mXrvpH3SX6z8DvlfwwBEKYFsUI/s1600/1-zipper+installed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="372" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMMXmnV56FdJSTY1HleGshTO7-Jb6cg1fIV8fps5_dRNUjUXGh_6W4R7o7XoYoatmFzSNiSBHQHBdVMl6KpCv7YJ0i2ncrPykD-P1pnnhKCbhXUuCz4mXrvpH3SX6z8DvlfwwBEKYFsUI/s400/1-zipper+installed.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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TIP: The zipper is positioned such that its upper, front, and lower edges are ½" from the edges of the finished pocket, or 1 ⅛" from each raw edge of the unfinished pocket. </div>
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We like to also mark the hem and fold lines with tailor's chalk, as well as the pocket's vertical center (as an alignment guide for the jumpsuit's shoulder/outer sleeve seam).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_3ACpGhnmJt3bg0_tB9psR7BivvxeRhqV35axwPb3-QU6jofJC2clB3Of2qdPj4GYJLNdCKUSyHdDyn-_COka-kr_codKL41dYxQzQ0oZfuqJ7fJ4LzGjo4L0RT6XZZlBiLAbK7nhy3M/s1600/2-hems+and+folds+marked.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="377" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_3ACpGhnmJt3bg0_tB9psR7BivvxeRhqV35axwPb3-QU6jofJC2clB3Of2qdPj4GYJLNdCKUSyHdDyn-_COka-kr_codKL41dYxQzQ0oZfuqJ7fJ4LzGjo4L0RT6XZZlBiLAbK7nhy3M/s400/2-hems+and+folds+marked.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Press the pocket's hem allowances under.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRCk2yCYvn104wfCbTABixVRBaMyJGF3X_zIhRB-AM5BOJqkeKlr2C78Xin7fgGaq0WplAcS7TwEzgpAyB8OkSPxcQLdyX5cbrN-p0QE9UvdEKArwB_Rb6ws7ORRLDiGzUq-mt6C89zz0/s1600/3-hems+pressed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="391" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRCk2yCYvn104wfCbTABixVRBaMyJGF3X_zIhRB-AM5BOJqkeKlr2C78Xin7fgGaq0WplAcS7TwEzgpAyB8OkSPxcQLdyX5cbrN-p0QE9UvdEKArwB_Rb6ws7ORRLDiGzUq-mt6C89zz0/s400/3-hems+pressed.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Next, press the front and back "expanding pocket" pleats by folding along the lines indicated on the printed pattern.</div>
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Keeping the front edge of the pocket folded, unfold the pleat underneath so there are only two layers of fabric (rather than four) at the front edge, and edge stitch them together. </div>
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Repeat for the back edge of the pocket.</div>
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<b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/09/analysis-part-20a-right-sleeve-pocket.html" target="_blank">As you may recall from our ENT jumpsuit analysis, the specific vertical placement of the right sleeve pocket varied</a></b>, but it was usually positioned about 4" beneath the lower edge of the division stripe, which is where we positioned ours.</div>
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Once you've decided on your right sleeve pocket's vertical placement (again, we generally recommend 4" beneath the lower edge of the division stripe), mark the pocket placement on the sleeve in the manner of your choice (tailor's chalk, disappearing ink fabric marker, basting thread, pins, etc.). </div>
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You can also mark the side edges of the pocket if you want.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoGu9PiGTUS9Hwn1uscWGc_qJKV74wujxCZwy2IHr-k41CUodHP9j-bb24qG2tcJ9GIF11i1z030JwONr5S3eWpoDFp94hdS1WEKA3vqPP-nHVXSFYMUOn2h_mjHL6U49Dbikl_pG1_FQ/s1600/6-pocket+placement+marked.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoGu9PiGTUS9Hwn1uscWGc_qJKV74wujxCZwy2IHr-k41CUodHP9j-bb24qG2tcJ9GIF11i1z030JwONr5S3eWpoDFp94hdS1WEKA3vqPP-nHVXSFYMUOn2h_mjHL6U49Dbikl_pG1_FQ/s400/6-pocket+placement+marked.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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Position the right sleeve pocket onto the sleeve so it's centered over the shoulder/outer sleeve seam and so its upper edge is flush with the upper alignment guide you just marked. </div>
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Keeping the pocket centered over the shoulder/outer sleeve seam, mark the side edges of the pocket on the sleeve in the manner of your choice if you haven't already. </div>
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Keeping the front and back edges of the pocket flush with the alignment guide you just marked, carefully unfold the pocket's front and back edges by pulling them toward center. </div>
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Pin the pleated fabric into place (again, keeping the front and back edges flush with the alignment guide you just marked).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpQpl8cQey-gL25P_K36P-XxUdufhhTQlROHx93SZr0pVvDCR5E5tJrAv0yewtA4d_P0lPTTNLdGzMPedM230LlnIhxPnCg-1b6XlPC5lIuqup-_2j5tuU7y71nlmYKmxUxu3LWN0440o/s1600/7-outer+edges+pinned.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpQpl8cQey-gL25P_K36P-XxUdufhhTQlROHx93SZr0pVvDCR5E5tJrAv0yewtA4d_P0lPTTNLdGzMPedM230LlnIhxPnCg-1b6XlPC5lIuqup-_2j5tuU7y71nlmYKmxUxu3LWN0440o/s400/7-outer+edges+pinned.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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Edge stitch the front and back folded edges of the pocket to the front body.</div>
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Fold the pocket back over to its proper position and pin into place around its perimeter.</div>
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TIP: Tailor-baste the pocket to the sleeve to help secure the layers and prevent them from shifting and/or pulling while stitching. </div>
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TIP: Whip-stitch the corners of the pocket to the sleeve, with the upper folds <i>slightly</i> covering the lower (pleated) folds. This will help prevent any "peek-a-boo" from the lower (pleated) folds once finished.</div>
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As with the chest and thigh pockets, the height of the "expanding pocket edge stitching" is largely a matter of personal preference. </div>
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Unlike with our chest and thigh pockets, because the right sleeve pocket is smaller, we like to edge stitch the uppermost and lowermost 1" on the front and back edges. </div>
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Beginning 1" above the back upper corner (or however high you prefer to secure your pocket) and ending the same distance above the front upper corner, edge stitch the top of the right sleeve pocket to the sleeve, reinforcing the stitching at the corners. </div>
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Repeat for the bottom of the pocket.</div>
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Lastly, horizontally topstitch through all layers ¼" from the upper and lower edges of the pocket.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2cWdnDJnVJGUKOOOawjeDVyj9tgclda0YGq7z9dUppug6OGeXqXI5ZiWhAISKHqT-HSrhjjwV4oEV3sMH01qsjMO4T8cBeSqXlk8FEdTA3eWpT8cEYVjPQNBMKAtkpUMOZ6x1NJH6kHM/s1600/11-topstitched.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2cWdnDJnVJGUKOOOawjeDVyj9tgclda0YGq7z9dUppug6OGeXqXI5ZiWhAISKHqT-HSrhjjwV4oEV3sMH01qsjMO4T8cBeSqXlk8FEdTA3eWpT8cEYVjPQNBMKAtkpUMOZ6x1NJH6kHM/s400/11-topstitched.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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You may now pull out the basting stitches if you'd like, but we prefer to leave ours in to keep the pocket flat during construction (only pulling out the whip-stitches at the corners).</div>
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Your right sleeve pocket is now finished!</div>
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-12-front-to-back.html">Tutorial, part 12 - Front to Back</a></b></div>
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-14-assignment-patch.html">Tutorial, part 14 - Assignment Patch</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2047910053052640055.post-34247722163351643822015-11-17T11:59:00.002-08:002016-05-22T13:49:53.953-07:00Tutorial, part 12 - Front to Back<div style="text-align: justify;">
The front and back assemblies are attached along the shoulder/outer sleeve edges first (with the side seams and inseams closed later in the construction process). </div>
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Identify the top of the sleeve zipper opening (indicated on the printed pattern - this is 7 ⅝" above the hemmed sleeve, or 10 ¼" above the bottom of the raw edge of the un-hemmed sleeve). </div>
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Chalk mark the top of the opening onto the wrong side of the sleeves. </div>
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Pin the front and back assemblies (but NOT the front facing!) together along the shoulder and outer sleeve seams, matching shoulder reinforcement, division stripe, and sleeve zipper openings exactly. </div>
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TIP: Before sewing the front to back, baste across the division stripes and check to ensure accurate alignment. </div>
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Once satisfied of their proper alignment, sew the front and back assemblies (but NOT the front facing!) together along the shoulder/outer sleeve seams from the neckline to the top of the sleeve zipper opening. Note that there is a slight amount of ease in the back shoulders.</div>
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Press the shoulder/outer sleeve allowances open using a tailor's ham.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0iGQHpfitGPM8xurZejPSJ64IQ9KQD1PMLzlIaJJY0OTwShyh_DDDDNg9XALtoYHr1Hq_xIHTNQ5zje4jbP0xhku_iZrM1fN5XbrpFREceAkq8rZwphdOSwoAV5IRG8Q3R5TT_tIcStQ/s1600/3-SA+pressed+open.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0iGQHpfitGPM8xurZejPSJ64IQ9KQD1PMLzlIaJJY0OTwShyh_DDDDNg9XALtoYHr1Hq_xIHTNQ5zje4jbP0xhku_iZrM1fN5XbrpFREceAkq8rZwphdOSwoAV5IRG8Q3R5TT_tIcStQ/s400/3-SA+pressed+open.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Hand-sew the front shoulder seam allowances to the front body between the upper and outer division stripe edges, <i>being careful to only stitch through the innermost jumpsuit body layer, not through the shoulder reinforcement!</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl43XjV0B8hDNyLvViAmNQ6UyYFIffTrV39GlCcx6VHR6BIoAvjAOXiK0CZJCajf3aagORrg2WvdPqdPYkhXcgfIgLF16-22NfRExF23A14hBiAjMml1_JsPk33LpSVEtRfMTJhx68oUk/s1600/4-front+SA+hand+sewn.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl43XjV0B8hDNyLvViAmNQ6UyYFIffTrV39GlCcx6VHR6BIoAvjAOXiK0CZJCajf3aagORrg2WvdPqdPYkhXcgfIgLF16-22NfRExF23A14hBiAjMml1_JsPk33LpSVEtRfMTJhx68oUk/s400/4-front+SA+hand+sewn.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Fold the uppermost portion of the front facing back up so its upper edge is flush with the raw edge of the back shoulder seam allowance.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmct3tm0Uhh12S-lpDzcQuJ276lvxVBeMNLo_-HrQ1O-xmhx845ckJUCMUs29cr_EoHRGpLXoTO76XcxvEr6CK493llrHxAMiaeFNGbBflITpQcSi6Z-nF_P4R92_QSCzMfRNbBUbPZBI/s1600/5-facing+up.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmct3tm0Uhh12S-lpDzcQuJ276lvxVBeMNLo_-HrQ1O-xmhx845ckJUCMUs29cr_EoHRGpLXoTO76XcxvEr6CK493llrHxAMiaeFNGbBflITpQcSi6Z-nF_P4R92_QSCzMfRNbBUbPZBI/s400/5-facing+up.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Sew the front facing to the back shoulder seam allowance about ¼" from their edges.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzphh5C0aylTkPh9Xi6fGEHoCk2szah4h1m4EzDFSCmt9ON3Yl1fyHJ0kIN1QgU7e1ME2f6gK5XAAYwTsp9v8h08DyAfFu7u9Hu82han_lfl99ey3KA2SPJR4Uj1YwfDIIxgQPflJDcZU/s1600/6-facing+sewn+to+back+SA.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzphh5C0aylTkPh9Xi6fGEHoCk2szah4h1m4EzDFSCmt9ON3Yl1fyHJ0kIN1QgU7e1ME2f6gK5XAAYwTsp9v8h08DyAfFu7u9Hu82han_lfl99ey3KA2SPJR4Uj1YwfDIIxgQPflJDcZU/s400/6-facing+sewn+to+back+SA.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Hand-sew the back shoulder seam allowances to the back body between the upper and outer division stripe edges as done previously with the front, <i>being careful to only stitch through the innermost jumpsuit body layer, not through the shoulder reinforcement!</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaKLWClMxIb5D0FZRG26gWFg2zH2dm0TBcXY7dRPF-GyBafcVQ3nw3ALVBXv2Yp_Iqz8Z9wGyA3t3_N3iUxDZMqh3-MDQC3p41nngt-dQdd4eHEy0a3a4aYtG0Zg8a7Bux6jkNo1qPPHM/s1600/7-back+SA+hand+sewn.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaKLWClMxIb5D0FZRG26gWFg2zH2dm0TBcXY7dRPF-GyBafcVQ3nw3ALVBXv2Yp_Iqz8Z9wGyA3t3_N3iUxDZMqh3-MDQC3p41nngt-dQdd4eHEy0a3a4aYtG0Zg8a7Bux6jkNo1qPPHM/s400/7-back+SA+hand+sewn.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Join the front facing to the front body along the neckline by stay-stitching again through both layers over the previous stitch line.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKgVpl08BPl92OKpgYDSaPFsyNEA8HJ08c-IdnotlAEFJGmCT8fOeBs5wADWLlf9r3n6F2lIzi17xInklMSP2tVBX_5VkEgEElFsoRVkoEEDEMFMBh2BZU8fVqKHvzYHWZRKX0j74lzAM/s1600/8-facing+stay-stitched+at+neckline.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKgVpl08BPl92OKpgYDSaPFsyNEA8HJ08c-IdnotlAEFJGmCT8fOeBs5wADWLlf9r3n6F2lIzi17xInklMSP2tVBX_5VkEgEElFsoRVkoEEDEMFMBh2BZU8fVqKHvzYHWZRKX0j74lzAM/s400/8-facing+stay-stitched+at+neckline.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The sleeve zipper opening technique is the same as <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-10-front-zipper-and-facing.html" target="_blank">that used previously on the center front of the jumpsuit</a></b>, but we'll quickly walk you through it here in the interest of thoroughness. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi58_Onbh4T-_BHU-GLTrwt70xTVGp2Nka9EClNBjJwSjWVD7f6VO0-FuXWoJHd5Lda8vFh8OxXGLqvPtHg4Hs7vDia0ZLFS5gA-_kBeEjm9BRR_L8i6HcuGmY5ULfxLynWAt81EmaN84w/s1600/9-body+marked.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi58_Onbh4T-_BHU-GLTrwt70xTVGp2Nka9EClNBjJwSjWVD7f6VO0-FuXWoJHd5Lda8vFh8OxXGLqvPtHg4Hs7vDia0ZLFS5gA-_kBeEjm9BRR_L8i6HcuGmY5ULfxLynWAt81EmaN84w/s320/9-body+marked.JPG" width="169" /></a>First make a mark ⅞" from and parallel to the center front edge near the sleeve zipper top (where you began/ended your stitch line).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtoNMd036OOYoLbppZLXMUdRdQ6w-U-y8H-cpf72GtHbnx-qdAH5ew3osQ5fiZLPstKcfduxrZFW2v2cBCZz4XbJche7Dam6W88URcC1K6uZ6DjEcBfmvRyLATrT5iqOTGgs2XSGhjQBM/s1600/10-SA+clipped.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtoNMd036OOYoLbppZLXMUdRdQ6w-U-y8H-cpf72GtHbnx-qdAH5ew3osQ5fiZLPstKcfduxrZFW2v2cBCZz4XbJche7Dam6W88URcC1K6uZ6DjEcBfmvRyLATrT5iqOTGgs2XSGhjQBM/s320/10-SA+clipped.JPG" width="178" /></a></div>
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Next, diagonally clip the seam allowances above the previous stitch line to the point at which the two marked lines intersect.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVHZIZtHUxoiZotfu09NuV63LIpKIHZY0oMG8sACPgH5Mv1fHAvumrIF3jhBYY2Sf5wA-Gn_FYb6uTlqdG_z9nVERw9BAzsyg76Z_GQu7pMpEHgbTYal-56vwERTKQlW64nEG1tMKk0QQ/s1600/11-SA+triangles+pressed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVHZIZtHUxoiZotfu09NuV63LIpKIHZY0oMG8sACPgH5Mv1fHAvumrIF3jhBYY2Sf5wA-Gn_FYb6uTlqdG_z9nVERw9BAzsyg76Z_GQu7pMpEHgbTYal-56vwERTKQlW64nEG1tMKk0QQ/s320/11-SA+triangles+pressed.JPG" width="160" /></a>Press these "triangles" upward/under.</div>
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Press the center front edges (above the diagonal clip) under ⅞".</div>
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The top of your sleeve zipper opening should look like this: </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQi9ltPSYmvX83uot-D-Ou0m0WA3YVMGbpOVwMaDxLrCoDCSPwVXsUTc5l3Md9TWKCcj2mThIxm6wb3G7sPI-LPfs0149Kg7QZGv1hp31F9mOOBqzTKQhQG34dSEICBN8MLRVt523WOHI/s1600/13-opening.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQi9ltPSYmvX83uot-D-Ou0m0WA3YVMGbpOVwMaDxLrCoDCSPwVXsUTc5l3Md9TWKCcj2mThIxm6wb3G7sPI-LPfs0149Kg7QZGv1hp31F9mOOBqzTKQhQG34dSEICBN8MLRVt523WOHI/s400/13-opening.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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TIP: Those little "triangles" can be a little fussy, so you may wish to baste or sew them into place by hand. Alternatively, you can pin them into place for the time being. The sleeve zipper opening will need to remain stable for a while until the sleeve zipper is installed several steps later.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn9mTY7K-iuSkRzr6I9-n2yXl6ADJkot3hJFxlanw7dA-gOOaOOiPWaTjabvUKPuqMwcXU9TJavijZCMCOwCunjHAkWSvgtCU9OC_rToTtpivxFbm9kHOCLvxWXNf74ydmd4NlqwzTQUo/s1600/Simon+just+don%2527t+fiddle+with+it.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn9mTY7K-iuSkRzr6I9-n2yXl6ADJkot3hJFxlanw7dA-gOOaOOiPWaTjabvUKPuqMwcXU9TJavijZCMCOwCunjHAkWSvgtCU9OC_rToTtpivxFbm9kHOCLvxWXNf74ydmd4NlqwzTQUo/s400/Simon+just+don%2527t+fiddle+with+it.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just don't fiddle with it. </td></tr>
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Your finished sleeve zipper opening should now look like this:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-fTlJL0wQPaUBjw4CZJqMOfJmd11G4f3bBPvkCWUhz9PwwtNwXaYEscS5PuzSO9f7u_FV7a0mGPPSh1KkG302wKl6D0kOdOtZl6MPouNf-EhOu95HOBRLZs4kIYx_fUn2cigigQbGQp4/s1600/14-sleeve+zipper+opening.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-fTlJL0wQPaUBjw4CZJqMOfJmd11G4f3bBPvkCWUhz9PwwtNwXaYEscS5PuzSO9f7u_FV7a0mGPPSh1KkG302wKl6D0kOdOtZl6MPouNf-EhOu95HOBRLZs4kIYx_fUn2cigigQbGQp4/s400/14-sleeve+zipper+opening.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Repeat for the other side. </div>
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<i>NOTE: It is much, MUCH easier to install the sleeve zippers and sleeve gussets (piece S) now, as opposed to later as demonstrated in this tutorial. It also prevents some inevitable "wear-and-tear" on the corners of the sleeve zipper opening between now and when the zipper is installed. We are presenting the steps in this order solely because it appears to be the order in which the screen-used originals were constructed. </i></div>
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<i>However, you can save yourself some frustration by "cheating" and installing the sleeve zippers and sleeve gussets now as described in step 18. Just position your sleeve zipper so its bottom edge is 2 ¾" from the bottom of the un-hemmed sleeve, attach the sleeve gusset, and hem the sleeve after the jumpsuit's sides and sleeves are closed. </i></div>
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<i>The only difference will be that the sleeve zipper/gusset seam allowance will be sandwiched between the sleeve and the sleeve's hem allowance, as opposed to the hem allowance being sandwiched between the sleeve and sleeve zipper/gusset seam allowance. (Seriously, it is highly unlikely that anybody will notice, especially if you don't turn your sleeve inside-out for an expert to inspect!)</i></div>
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-11-back-assembly.html">Tutorial, part 11 - Back Assembly</a></b></div>
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-13-right-sleeve-pocket.html">Tutorial, part 13 - Right Sleeve Pocket</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2047910053052640055.post-35673574059597342052015-11-17T11:47:00.002-08:002016-05-22T13:50:02.919-07:00Tutorial, part 11 - Back Assembly<div style="text-align: justify;">
Sew the two center backs (piece C) together along the center back.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaW-ETXMV_DgrkU9-2TemH7ZHzYdoKtcBprNv3PKXeltRRe3mLUHm_Iz2HQLr4i1Iu2nzE-WSbT6ZhDdbAcIDiGg1GuSVDh23SNMkYbYsVF_OVrb-UpkC9wBfEA3lkuhtwHWRHup1Pby8/s1600/1-backs+sewn+together.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaW-ETXMV_DgrkU9-2TemH7ZHzYdoKtcBprNv3PKXeltRRe3mLUHm_Iz2HQLr4i1Iu2nzE-WSbT6ZhDdbAcIDiGg1GuSVDh23SNMkYbYsVF_OVrb-UpkC9wBfEA3lkuhtwHWRHup1Pby8/s400/1-backs+sewn+together.JPG" width="203" /></a></div>
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Press the center back seam allowances to the left.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8QkFJh_lWfLqccTFZipYQHTglrDgzg7jbu_E6IkhgkPkVSQW3s2ihojnOqgaTG_4th_mGvy2Yzxn3Fvyw6GnkxM0Pd5tf8ztO5fXvy4AZzaJXV4L5J3FnugZx6-VWty1U6mDBpAgIKEA/s1600/Tailor%2527s+ham.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="128" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8QkFJh_lWfLqccTFZipYQHTglrDgzg7jbu_E6IkhgkPkVSQW3s2ihojnOqgaTG_4th_mGvy2Yzxn3Fvyw6GnkxM0Pd5tf8ztO5fXvy4AZzaJXV4L5J3FnugZx6-VWty1U6mDBpAgIKEA/s200/Tailor%2527s+ham.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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TIP: Since the pattern's center back is tapered slightly to fit the wearer (i.e. it's a curved edge rather than a straight vertical one), we've found it tremendously helpful to use a tailor's harm to press the center back seam allowances!</div>
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From the right side/outside, edge stitch the seam allowances to the left.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV_mJMjdp16fDe4ls0L-r2Uii27n_A4qfIf0kG59oSor7rrMzOKHk8uxgaK-8ES9tkq7UJppHrdhizpydMEuVHLfgUuAOReZ7ez52c8ajMzymwYxa_q7hs6EWx_vKfA9vkuhHGCLRUyRs/s1600/3a-edge+stitching.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV_mJMjdp16fDe4ls0L-r2Uii27n_A4qfIf0kG59oSor7rrMzOKHk8uxgaK-8ES9tkq7UJppHrdhizpydMEuVHLfgUuAOReZ7ez52c8ajMzymwYxa_q7hs6EWx_vKfA9vkuhHGCLRUyRs/s400/3a-edge+stitching.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwnqH6tol5UeGi9Vhfzk5Nn4dztH4IgwJhfx_Yc5B3DSGTJZowM14Jp8cLSPkkSwyVLWnad3ngyFf4iVzfaBqG4u0Al88XY5exmcjK9NX0xydVK-WwT4ik-GQlkhorHN1nPWM1k8r4anY/s1600/3b-edge+stitched.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwnqH6tol5UeGi9Vhfzk5Nn4dztH4IgwJhfx_Yc5B3DSGTJZowM14Jp8cLSPkkSwyVLWnad3ngyFf4iVzfaBqG4u0Al88XY5exmcjK9NX0xydVK-WwT4ik-GQlkhorHN1nPWM1k8r4anY/s400/3b-edge+stitched.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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In the manner of your choice (we like tailor's chalk), mark the back elastic waistband placement.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQnpvacCmIahReV0zI4t40JwG1VlQmyKIWPJbHuZU5AXboUAEijHHfvkd7cAvGWbjA9sE95E3GhX3E_I0np4YArJ3FRzkzlG3AkEbsYLvH8FuiS-Nkvk3g9DGlCfgWS8m6qgci1YHAEHw/s1600/4-waistband+placement+marked.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQnpvacCmIahReV0zI4t40JwG1VlQmyKIWPJbHuZU5AXboUAEijHHfvkd7cAvGWbjA9sE95E3GhX3E_I0np4YArJ3FRzkzlG3AkEbsYLvH8FuiS-Nkvk3g9DGlCfgWS8m6qgci1YHAEHw/s400/4-waistband+placement+marked.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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TIP: The placement is marked on the printed pattern piece's edges, but we like to connect these edges with a ruler so we have a complete guide for attaching the waistband!</div>
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Press the upper and lower hems under on the back elastic waistband channel (piece N).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvUAecC85UB2EaZzJIDxWHFYbmpkDq-tMs5IyhBUM1Uw4SCThkR2bdlNtz-GwdhNS1B4VewC3NcKa8gGAGZCz7dajjziuTcs-I0m9rtzgXFa7PzllBbvPU2NNTI3O_tuMjxmd9-WemZ9A/s1600/5-waistband+hems+pressed+under.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="68" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvUAecC85UB2EaZzJIDxWHFYbmpkDq-tMs5IyhBUM1Uw4SCThkR2bdlNtz-GwdhNS1B4VewC3NcKa8gGAGZCz7dajjziuTcs-I0m9rtzgXFa7PzllBbvPU2NNTI3O_tuMjxmd9-WemZ9A/s400/5-waistband+hems+pressed+under.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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We also like to mark the (horizontal) center of the waistband for additional reference.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGZtULkIbEexxMXUzAjeMjgDPUM1CJFKofjTjziSDRhBc0UEFOY3acdnPuR_zwmhro0JMjMeck0DfofzCWID3R6EDXCgc0vyC82BDuudoALr1nd8ePmTx1LqL3iHJCIew12JcnOZ3bFDw/s1600/6-waistband+center+marked.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="70" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGZtULkIbEexxMXUzAjeMjgDPUM1CJFKofjTjziSDRhBc0UEFOY3acdnPuR_zwmhro0JMjMeck0DfofzCWID3R6EDXCgc0vyC82BDuudoALr1nd8ePmTx1LqL3iHJCIew12JcnOZ3bFDw/s400/6-waistband+center+marked.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Cut a length of elastic slightly longer than the waistband - about 1" longer on each end will do.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLKNqFULDEudgS1U1-TH2iUdKzSEGg1WIxjctQVjOB5kTLB7JvURG0cnryYZvb1dKfTDzHocEoXy_vJnCbMvSH25iJqCfRjk6ejzi5TViVnPLlP5C9_N1XHQgPmuvcU9flxfKxMpkeB3Q/s1600/7-elastic+cut.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="110" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLKNqFULDEudgS1U1-TH2iUdKzSEGg1WIxjctQVjOB5kTLB7JvURG0cnryYZvb1dKfTDzHocEoXy_vJnCbMvSH25iJqCfRjk6ejzi5TViVnPLlP5C9_N1XHQgPmuvcU9flxfKxMpkeB3Q/s400/7-elastic+cut.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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If you already know how much elastic you need for a comfortably-fitting jumpsuit (and you know because you made a muslin test or three first, right?!?!?), mark the appropriate length of elastic. </div>
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If you're unsure, the formula we recommend starting with is: your waist measurement minus 19". </div>
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For example, if you have a 36" waist, use a 17" length of elastic as a guestimated starting point and mark the elastic accordingly. (Don't worry, you'll get to adjust it later if needed!)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLuwvjlDgWl8YgvAx7ON3wD2Rhl1-8lmtWr2V1wWi8U7AjXEnpIltmyEcFS5uYhhyvLXLvEWYOWPzQUFu2q6HxcosQuDSgnWOSQZKIf6S6rYg74PjBgmSE1EQ7VhbFFYwL7qe-j5j598M/s1600/8-elastic+marked.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="110" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLuwvjlDgWl8YgvAx7ON3wD2Rhl1-8lmtWr2V1wWi8U7AjXEnpIltmyEcFS5uYhhyvLXLvEWYOWPzQUFu2q6HxcosQuDSgnWOSQZKIf6S6rYg74PjBgmSE1EQ7VhbFFYwL7qe-j5j598M/s400/8-elastic+marked.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Thread the elastic into the underside of the channel so it's "sandwiched" underneath the upper and lower hem allowances.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisJEaiLJpxlf5KmP0EvCRf61F3mHT6xalF5vPpar0Vr6zPC_EYarL0CLyBivrkqeE5dCaXGZbaQYLMnzT-IkD3dLpd1wray0gBzenVF_viBjy2tcgonc2J3dsQ7b3k4YlH5z0mJz_dyDo/s1600/9-elastic+threaded+under+hems.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="70" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisJEaiLJpxlf5KmP0EvCRf61F3mHT6xalF5vPpar0Vr6zPC_EYarL0CLyBivrkqeE5dCaXGZbaQYLMnzT-IkD3dLpd1wray0gBzenVF_viBjy2tcgonc2J3dsQ7b3k4YlH5z0mJz_dyDo/s400/9-elastic+threaded+under+hems.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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As you may have noticed, the channel is slightly taller than 2"; this is to accommodate the 2" elastic, plus leaving a little room for edge-stitching and accounting for the "turn-of-cloth" factor.</div>
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With the elastic still "sandwiched" inside the waistband hems, pin the waistband to the back body assembly along the alignment guide(s) you marked, with the elastic "overhanging" the channel on each end. </div>
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(We find it much easier to simply attach the waistband with the elastic already inside than threading it in later.)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAKh8fhYVvYiejPdmXQiXxLp7EWw2KjxpoNoIkG_bkGoGs4oA9QFnbOtJlfhz9igufsD59E_c_ceTuqNYBQD07nZYRg7MgC1eGV-SP4s7qRcBtDMrew6PIORAm8im6-VVtxZztF0-od3A/s1600/10a-waistband+pinned+to+body.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="350" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAKh8fhYVvYiejPdmXQiXxLp7EWw2KjxpoNoIkG_bkGoGs4oA9QFnbOtJlfhz9igufsD59E_c_ceTuqNYBQD07nZYRg7MgC1eGV-SP4s7qRcBtDMrew6PIORAm8im6-VVtxZztF0-od3A/s400/10a-waistband+pinned+to+body.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>NOTE: The alignment guides on the printed pattern are 2" apart, but as noted previously, the waistband is slightly taller than 2", so the upper and lower edges will slightly overlap the chalk guides! Regard these lines as stitch lines.</i></div>
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TIP: Pin the elastic into place on each end to prevent any accidental "slippage." (You don't want to have to fish inside for that elusive end of elastic that got pulled inside the channel ... ugh.)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ8Y9m25jgkAWLaS5Fyj287PekSNUQPJBsKojGTO_Pm2Lo1lGaCiHgIOgmI1tpcHbYJdoZDmd2dXXNIdgzpu8-v_pI-ltRy0w35oTTXr_jJ2ak3hRNL-PLz5QSZAag2Q4HqzHIO4b4nUs/s1600/10b-elastic+pinned.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="317" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ8Y9m25jgkAWLaS5Fyj287PekSNUQPJBsKojGTO_Pm2Lo1lGaCiHgIOgmI1tpcHbYJdoZDmd2dXXNIdgzpu8-v_pI-ltRy0w35oTTXr_jJ2ak3hRNL-PLz5QSZAag2Q4HqzHIO4b4nUs/s400/10b-elastic+pinned.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Edge-stitch the waistband to the back body assembly along the upper and lower edges, taking care to sew the waistband only and not catch the elastic in the stitching.</div>
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This final step is optional and only recommended if you have a good idea of how much elastic you need to achieve a comfortable fit around the waist. </div>
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(If you don't, no problem! You can simply stretch it to comfort near the end of the construction process and secure it then.) </div>
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Pull the elastic so its unmarked end is flush with the side edge of the back assembly and pin or sew it into place. </div>
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Stretch the opposite end until the fitting mark is flush with the opposite side edge of the assembly and pin into place.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTBQy0yeTgABJGtOYDh2QGpBHjZRtAPfTnzHqRa77m3E538zu2OvVPgiTNT_nIaZUHb17dD2ji7gfSQso1EnIoBZpFcMtBHJ3Od72emb3zBBS7L5O_HkkgvJ8JHC5tWqhJsmVywOJZQsA/s1600/12-elastic+pulled+to+mark+and+pinned.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="325" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTBQy0yeTgABJGtOYDh2QGpBHjZRtAPfTnzHqRa77m3E538zu2OvVPgiTNT_nIaZUHb17dD2ji7gfSQso1EnIoBZpFcMtBHJ3Od72emb3zBBS7L5O_HkkgvJ8JHC5tWqhJsmVywOJZQsA/s400/12-elastic+pulled+to+mark+and+pinned.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Sew the elastic into place within the side seam allowance on the first (unmarked) edge if you didn't already.</div>
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If you're really sure about how much elastic you need, sew the opposite (marked) end into place and cut off the excess. </div>
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If you're pretty sure but want to leave a bit of room for adjustment, baste the elastic into place along the marked end, then cut off the excess elastic about 1" past the side edge (leaving that inch for potential fitting later). </div>
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-10-front-zipper-and-facing.html">Tutorial, part 10 - Front Zipper and Facing</a></b></div>
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-12-front-to-back.html">Tutorial, part 12 - Front to Back</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2047910053052640055.post-16155399120181863362015-11-16T20:56:00.005-08:002016-05-22T12:11:34.505-07:00Tutorial, part 10 - Front Zipper and Facing<div style="text-align: justify;">
Place the two front body pieces on top of each other, right sides together and edges flush.<br />
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Cut off the excess zipper tape at the top of your front zipper, above the zipper stop, then apply liquid fray preventer to the top edges.</div>
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Place the zipper on top of the front pieces along the center edge, with the top of the zipper flush with the top edge of the body/neckline.</div>
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With your tailor's chalk, mark the zipper a little above the metal zipper stop at the bottom - about ½". (The idea is to make sure it gets sewn in beneath the bottom of the front zipper opening.) </div>
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Likewise mark on the front body pieces.</div>
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Pin, then sew the two front pieces together along the center edges, from the crotch up to the chalk mark.</div>
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The center front seam allowance is the standard ⅝", but as the zipper opening is ½", the front allowances will need to be widened by ¼" on each side. </div>
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To accomplish this, first make a mark ⅞" from and parallel to the center front edge near the previous mark. </div>
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(That's ⅝" seam allowance plus an additional ¼" for the zipper opening.)</div>
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Next, diagonally clip the seam allowances above the previous stitch line to the point at which the two marked lines intersect.</div>
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Press these "triangles" downward.</div>
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Press the center front edges (above the diagonal clip) under ⅞".</div>
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The lower front of your zipper opening should look like this:</div>
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TIP: Those little "triangles" can be a little fussy, so you may wish to baste or sew them into place by hand.</div>
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As done previously with the chest and thigh pocket zippers, position your jumpsuit's front zipper appropriately - that is, horizontally centered between the edges of the opening, with the top of the zipper flush with the top of the front/neckline edges of the jumpsuit. The bottom of the zipper (and the metal zipper stop) should extend slightly past the bottom of the opening. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbZiyun8BJq_vaKbdZuQCZkUpyBBm5v4yamvl_niXa7ZrFG9-p9jSW-cXchu6g864RXDdqEYG_PbQpZB-rsUdCAzRVMhiDL-Ajzn3eva4jEiim8PFxdXyQLKftkvJscu1DxolJcy6AsI0/s1600/Wonder+Tape.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbZiyun8BJq_vaKbdZuQCZkUpyBBm5v4yamvl_niXa7ZrFG9-p9jSW-cXchu6g864RXDdqEYG_PbQpZB-rsUdCAzRVMhiDL-Ajzn3eva4jEiim8PFxdXyQLKftkvJscu1DxolJcy6AsI0/s200/Wonder+Tape.jpg" width="176" /></a>Also as with the chest and thigh pocket zippers, we highly recommend using ¼" double-sided tape to help hold the zipper in place and prevent any fabric pulling! In fact, we believe it's probably more important to use it on this zipper than any of the others on the entire uniform (except, perhaps, the sleeve and leg zippers)! </div>
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We also like to pin the zipper into place for additional stability.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM8O9sNbVTJEPGk0M8potSOA9vX8i3dEtUOq4peqB7WdUzeYeyFSy12St-OBwedAcuPMiMrRMuCGa9UHz2VZfqd0Jf3_-IRUkpyZNBxejr1OTJRX0BEKvyJCXE8LO8KCyArfZA3j0TJd8/s1600/12-zipper+positioned.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM8O9sNbVTJEPGk0M8potSOA9vX8i3dEtUOq4peqB7WdUzeYeyFSy12St-OBwedAcuPMiMrRMuCGa9UHz2VZfqd0Jf3_-IRUkpyZNBxejr1OTJRX0BEKvyJCXE8LO8KCyArfZA3j0TJd8/s400/12-zipper+positioned.JPG" width="310" /></a></div>
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Edge-stitch the zipper into place around the entirety of its perimeter.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnrBNIRDw8LqqxiQdenc2efJ1COVR0FqyXd0onRYxkrd8GkWGvjvQAB3b_bSkjNl6posuA0p1fAl4__P7HwTJlUPXS2j5WX4yxhsox8a4oHh-81Ows0pGeMIzxTeN3p8oI5J1bYApD_Sc/s1600/13-zipper+edge+stitched.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnrBNIRDw8LqqxiQdenc2efJ1COVR0FqyXd0onRYxkrd8GkWGvjvQAB3b_bSkjNl6posuA0p1fAl4__P7HwTJlUPXS2j5WX4yxhsox8a4oHh-81Ows0pGeMIzxTeN3p8oI5J1bYApD_Sc/s400/13-zipper+edge+stitched.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Turn the front assembly over (right side down). </div>
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The front facing (piece F) will be attached to the center front/zipper opening seam allowances.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbmtuI53zpQuJEJdauIkXTdwEChznaBUiX9J8qvEcK6rINzFg6U7DFr5jijFBm5wqjg4ppl7QHJ406t4Yolx7M-Xwzbn3H80lfUyYXJF9-05-nCUr4fSjfsDyNbKk56Dbv3q1eN6fMTAU/s1600/14-facing.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="331" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbmtuI53zpQuJEJdauIkXTdwEChznaBUiX9J8qvEcK6rINzFg6U7DFr5jijFBm5wqjg4ppl7QHJ406t4Yolx7M-Xwzbn3H80lfUyYXJF9-05-nCUr4fSjfsDyNbKk56Dbv3q1eN6fMTAU/s400/14-facing.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Turn the front facing (piece F) over so it faces the opposite direction (its right side to the jumpsuit's wrong side) and position it so its centermost edge is flush with the edge of the jumpsuit's center front/zipper opening seam allowance.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGct5BkMV55gBrEnlW00J6enmuVAufg5Ja-8V2qgV-uQr1zQ3srK1_9FoW6lVYTZMrKtMYiJng0LU4AZ95WwwRxr2whDQsn_Jkrg3Wkd4L1bam1MATSCGP-iAk9AKeqIu0ujE4azGR8BA/s1600/15-facing+positioned+%2528edges+flush%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="302" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGct5BkMV55gBrEnlW00J6enmuVAufg5Ja-8V2qgV-uQr1zQ3srK1_9FoW6lVYTZMrKtMYiJng0LU4AZ95WwwRxr2whDQsn_Jkrg3Wkd4L1bam1MATSCGP-iAk9AKeqIu0ujE4azGR8BA/s400/15-facing+positioned+%2528edges+flush%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Fold the two layers upward and pin them together from the "wrong" side - that is, the underside of the center front/zipper opening seam allowances.</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjMhdW9WXwmzVvnJ_6jX8dxat9H5FJgZ0A40SYzTX2YQwlFaI0ZwlQXKyPj7hjs4SyoMLaQPtwcX1ZdxS5utN50b89xZUNjVmroJZ92p_mQSI9z33ZC-kpnyuhscYnycBPgj049WAJaFI/s1600/16a-facing+pinned.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="348" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjMhdW9WXwmzVvnJ_6jX8dxat9H5FJgZ0A40SYzTX2YQwlFaI0ZwlQXKyPj7hjs4SyoMLaQPtwcX1ZdxS5utN50b89xZUNjVmroJZ92p_mQSI9z33ZC-kpnyuhscYnycBPgj049WAJaFI/s400/16a-facing+pinned.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6TcJvMcwNG5zJkMKiOGnnZB5T6TGuXt2Cp6HWsHyP5uW8jrkbDEoevFIR6EZpFOiY30Gs03l4VMOPacn0mT1OR9SjEYOCLrAzh97sBQS-B1pBC-cPc6lpyCz5iPNmVQMwrwS-_UoWCTc/s1600/16b-facing+pinned.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6TcJvMcwNG5zJkMKiOGnnZB5T6TGuXt2Cp6HWsHyP5uW8jrkbDEoevFIR6EZpFOiY30Gs03l4VMOPacn0mT1OR9SjEYOCLrAzh97sBQS-B1pBC-cPc6lpyCz5iPNmVQMwrwS-_UoWCTc/s400/16b-facing+pinned.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Using your zipper/piping foot, sew the facing to the center front as closely to the previous stitch line as possible. (This will be <i>just</i> shy of ⅞" from the edges.)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9DbfwiNTyY3n-2Dg3ajdwT1n0jyPM147LYGoiwUIxQVoPlGqb7rFYu_fQAzn5TnH87wC_gpKKT-MQD5Gm2Okn9O4NPey7llhDX_4Pk0n9FAv1oCGp-b9SI7Fw5f2a5AeZ5eo-KXJ6bBI/s1600/17-attaching+facing.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9DbfwiNTyY3n-2Dg3ajdwT1n0jyPM147LYGoiwUIxQVoPlGqb7rFYu_fQAzn5TnH87wC_gpKKT-MQD5Gm2Okn9O4NPey7llhDX_4Pk0n9FAv1oCGp-b9SI7Fw5f2a5AeZ5eo-KXJ6bBI/s400/17-attaching+facing.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Once attached, the underside of the center front/front facing assembly will look like this:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_ulBFleblTup8CXPuK67s_z0bVyDUfSKZJk5AltvG1QNQm_9woP3pecfnhTOXnkjQbsmEpa1VQj3HleFy1U-JN3jbSJNA5nrHW_3WfGLtcdtwgAmsv_nWdE36RnGZJHpgVJmrzA3153w/s1600/18-finished+seam.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="245" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_ulBFleblTup8CXPuK67s_z0bVyDUfSKZJk5AltvG1QNQm_9woP3pecfnhTOXnkjQbsmEpa1VQj3HleFy1U-JN3jbSJNA5nrHW_3WfGLtcdtwgAmsv_nWdE36RnGZJHpgVJmrzA3153w/s400/18-finished+seam.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Open the jumpsuit back up again (wrong side facing upward).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihcbNFN8z1z1LrNp_khdUBWAwY-Xf3ySAGkIv36C3E0dKfCG0R9qDo3a7QJhho5uGj7MnXU7X-JQOiJ-MwSr8mX5SnM7pbgN55wgdMFQuc_cPXcrd1SoUZw7xS0RJGjrfTqEemPS1V-Do/s1600/19-facing+attached.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="325" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihcbNFN8z1z1LrNp_khdUBWAwY-Xf3ySAGkIv36C3E0dKfCG0R9qDo3a7QJhho5uGj7MnXU7X-JQOiJ-MwSr8mX5SnM7pbgN55wgdMFQuc_cPXcrd1SoUZw7xS0RJGjrfTqEemPS1V-Do/s400/19-facing+attached.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Press the facing away from center. </div>
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Note that the facing "overlaps" the chest pocket and waist straps slightly. (It may also slightly overlap the centermost upper corner of your thigh pocket, depending on your physique and where you positioned it.)</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3ndhXt2ul_FeHEfJPBTHOsfO5pg52QmEJFgIkL1cHF-T7Osb3lhJMMmTMWZnMsEDVAG4SwlBodKFc2FxycI736U1_qa_NOYl-aw1t_wtA4a-Xz95OeEJ_LRPNQLyCK-Yg28nRRNycIVM/s1600/20-facing+pressed+away+from+center.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="332" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3ndhXt2ul_FeHEfJPBTHOsfO5pg52QmEJFgIkL1cHF-T7Osb3lhJMMmTMWZnMsEDVAG4SwlBodKFc2FxycI736U1_qa_NOYl-aw1t_wtA4a-Xz95OeEJ_LRPNQLyCK-Yg28nRRNycIVM/s400/20-facing+pressed+away+from+center.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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This may surprise you (if you haven't read a word of this tutorial and just happened to randomly skip ahead to this page), but we recommend tailor-basting the facing to the front body of the jumpsuit.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFm_3pTYVGPpeHZPzxhWaOP69q1gXwez8UI0dVcf1ehXa-DNAK0hsKoIO9dMq-MYfWoas4wLg44nt1-kAE7BX1xfqQy9Ks0rxPtx_Bi3xR91UF_wUKsJppmBzoT8jSZ0ZuvWvCnmxa1W0/s1600/21-tailor+basted.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="332" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFm_3pTYVGPpeHZPzxhWaOP69q1gXwez8UI0dVcf1ehXa-DNAK0hsKoIO9dMq-MYfWoas4wLg44nt1-kAE7BX1xfqQy9Ks0rxPtx_Bi3xR91UF_wUKsJppmBzoT8jSZ0ZuvWvCnmxa1W0/s400/21-tailor+basted.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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From the right side, at the centermost upper and lower corners of the chest pocket, edge stitch again over the previous stitching (along with the ¼" topstitches), this time securing the facing to the underside of the jumpsuit body. </div>
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Also edge stitch the centermost edges of the waist straps. </div>
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Then hand-sew the facing to the jumpsuit body underneath the chest pocket, <i>being careful to only stitch through the innermost jumpsuit body layer, not through the entire pocket!</i></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy36raV4tDo2DZ07xJpjtLZ9jSECseqtA-uMcytVBz-_jxK1RclJcQHD_2UhxVHMZUOm_N04rrYzW6IwafMIKSiAbTioDXfptWoOgl-XGS-eqj15ONk5PkvEdHEcCvb49QTudSAhRIiHw/s1600/22a-machine+stitched+again.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy36raV4tDo2DZ07xJpjtLZ9jSECseqtA-uMcytVBz-_jxK1RclJcQHD_2UhxVHMZUOm_N04rrYzW6IwafMIKSiAbTioDXfptWoOgl-XGS-eqj15ONk5PkvEdHEcCvb49QTudSAhRIiHw/s400/22a-machine+stitched+again.JPG" width="322" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRsbJBMhOQatiB2ZwKH-vobeemdosy0TNbRQmciJxBhMVG5GY3TvMH9AmIMF2nDV2PVTOSrd2-qHxuSuRDp-FsHXxaEA_XYq7uAGZmHcuon8z8KbuzWBHo6gCORopUX_ITMNMSraOAqJA/s1600/22b-machine+stitched+again.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRsbJBMhOQatiB2ZwKH-vobeemdosy0TNbRQmciJxBhMVG5GY3TvMH9AmIMF2nDV2PVTOSrd2-qHxuSuRDp-FsHXxaEA_XYq7uAGZmHcuon8z8KbuzWBHo6gCORopUX_ITMNMSraOAqJA/s320/22b-machine+stitched+again.JPG" width="240" /></a>Here are some close-ups of the edge-stitching and topstitching that fasten the facing to the jumpsuit body.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGXbpx1tbsXZfBtSfAfYjdIWXFy_HhJU-BpleDZzrUAAC8vX2qN2TnH0D5chA6RvT98Oz3ffJGu4sWIs-D3FI-XaIAavzb0WgbbjsW0kYFq6-zu5T3UqGs77WHbeYbh7-Rm_qFarXlvNY/s1600/22c-machine+stitched+again.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGXbpx1tbsXZfBtSfAfYjdIWXFy_HhJU-BpleDZzrUAAC8vX2qN2TnH0D5chA6RvT98Oz3ffJGu4sWIs-D3FI-XaIAavzb0WgbbjsW0kYFq6-zu5T3UqGs77WHbeYbh7-Rm_qFarXlvNY/s400/22c-machine+stitched+again.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Repeat for the other side.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis5QYNa_F4Gz3dDxJQOG-iUT0iOHVSQw05AAwTbK-0LtK4c9vE-hbnqVHAM0poOBh0p2xdGcH7sDcA6zJVLnD1QN9GXCIzHMzYpB6AhxUDWttE0UwpBgKbCUkRkXSGnGcHz_qTjTTaYXE/s1600/23a-repeated.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="357" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis5QYNa_F4Gz3dDxJQOG-iUT0iOHVSQw05AAwTbK-0LtK4c9vE-hbnqVHAM0poOBh0p2xdGcH7sDcA6zJVLnD1QN9GXCIzHMzYpB6AhxUDWttE0UwpBgKbCUkRkXSGnGcHz_qTjTTaYXE/s400/23a-repeated.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFeZNxwT867uQ13j4Oc-3XRvpRBQDqdLnnPGi7cOxa3VRMy_2FxNJ69xqMUVH9AQL6WLcs43f4IocxWKYY-h2pIcx9SI0p1Zs0RJWlojLHxIMh-bZPzITWPIOHm8lAtv9zkPS8E8D9yNk/s1600/23b-repeated.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="336" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFeZNxwT867uQ13j4Oc-3XRvpRBQDqdLnnPGi7cOxa3VRMy_2FxNJ69xqMUVH9AQL6WLcs43f4IocxWKYY-h2pIcx9SI0p1Zs0RJWlojLHxIMh-bZPzITWPIOHm8lAtv9zkPS8E8D9yNk/s400/23b-repeated.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Your front assembly should now look something like this:</div>
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-9-division-stripes.html">Tutorial, part 9 - Division Stripes</a></b></div>
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-11-back-assembly.html">Tutorial, part 11 - Back Assembly</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2047910053052640055.post-67209964205384499382015-11-16T20:40:00.003-08:002016-05-22T12:10:56.237-07:00Tutorial, part 9 - Division Stripes<div style="text-align: justify;">
As mentioned previously, for the best results, we recommend using bias-cut cotton twill for the division stripes. </div>
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However, if you prefer to use cotton lycra, you may wish to stabilize it with some fusible interfacing (<b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/09/analysis-part-7b-division-stripes.html" target="_blank">as seems to have been done with the screen-used ENT jumpsuits, which you may recall from our ENT jumpsuit analysis</a></b>). </div>
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Begin by folding your division stripe the long way (so the long edges are flush), wrong sides together, and press.</div>
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Fold the stripe in half again, this time the other way (so the opposite short edges are flush) and press.</div>
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With the double-folded end of the division stripe on your right and the folded edges on the bottom, using tailor's chalk or a disappearing ink fabric marker, make a small mark at the top (the raw edges) 1" from the right (the double-folded edge).</div>
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Again using tailor's chalk or a disappearing ink fabric marker, draw a line from your previous mark to the lower right corner (the folded edges). This is your stitch line.</div>
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Starting at the top (the raw edges), stitch over this line with a short stitch length, leaving the last ¼" free and un-sewn! (That last bit is important.) Reinforce the stitch several times at the end.</div>
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This will help create <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/09/analysis-part-7c-division-stripes.html" target="_blank">that screen-used "not-quite-mitered-to-the-edge" effect we mentioned in our ENT jumpsuit analysis</a></b>.</div>
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At this point, you have two options, and we recommend experimenting on some scraps to determine which gives you the best results. </div>
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The first method is to simply unfold the division stripe and carefully press the excess fabric downward.</div>
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TIP: "Poke" the outermost corner of the stripe's miter with the iron (steaming, of course!) some to really maximize that screen-used "not-quite-mitered-to-the-edge" effect. </div>
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We've had better results with this method than the following one, but it does have the disadvantage of creating additional bulk on the underside of the stripe, which increases the danger of any unsightly bulges at the corners (especially if you accidentally over-press the area).</div>
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The second option is to cut away the bulk of the excess fabric approximately ⅛" from the stitch line.</div>
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Unfold the stripe.</div>
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Carefully separate the allowances and press them open, then press the "hood" at the corner flat as with the first method.</div>
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Whichever method you choose, your finished miter should look something like this:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKEN3m7e4VRDgkVVDk6Nhrr_ySFvxdl5ibH-qUPIl0-LuniO-slEisAjORST4i0ln8ZpnL6CXvmxkgodETydi_6J5UoDrPyi_Bds7wy7YNYsSvxgZJlVUOYwQ2biWieINjLUXCH-_ovws/s1600/7-finished.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKEN3m7e4VRDgkVVDk6Nhrr_ySFvxdl5ibH-qUPIl0-LuniO-slEisAjORST4i0ln8ZpnL6CXvmxkgodETydi_6J5UoDrPyi_Bds7wy7YNYsSvxgZJlVUOYwQ2biWieINjLUXCH-_ovws/s400/7-finished.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Position your division stripe onto the jumpsuit body. </div>
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The stripe will probably be quite a bit longer than necessary, so begin by pinning the lower (mitered) corner into place so it is flush with the upper edge of the chest pocket and the centermost (vertical) edge you previously marked with the aid of the alignment guide! (See below.)</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA_dlX9zFRwdQSMmrjyFjWikkb1QPK8MJKzaaPcqtl51kY_2c2aEEYMcQcXqhaLDzeBCoevWgZhhlZgl0QkI1kfM0QSX3NA5kc1g-KYHFpFU8lUf48zmyy1j4t9EIrJOa8_FocWh-L-hU/s1600/11th+Doctor+leftover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA_dlX9zFRwdQSMmrjyFjWikkb1QPK8MJKzaaPcqtl51kY_2c2aEEYMcQcXqhaLDzeBCoevWgZhhlZgl0QkI1kfM0QSX3NA5kc1g-KYHFpFU8lUf48zmyy1j4t9EIrJOa8_FocWh-L-hU/s320/11th+Doctor+leftover.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There's always a bit left over, isn't there? </td></tr>
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Pin the remainder of the division stripe to the body. </div>
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The centermost edge should be flush with the alignment guide, and the lower edge should be flush with the upper edge of the chest pocket and the upper edge of the sleeve.</div>
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Using your division-colored thread, edge stitch the division stripe to the front body.</div>
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Cut off the excess stripe material so the upper and outer edges are flush with the body edges.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7WgyNAx5EWIWbchlEeqHQrAXZkR4t1v-8gqcWdWYlfGZ-eev-PR5vza3U550l7xjqweeeJqUK2WXp5US9GUmchEMdSON_jlflilRQ2g8mN5Mkw9Jf8WBcbBZlS_5tI4OuIkhOIdkp-Bs/s1600/13-cut+to+size.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="303" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7WgyNAx5EWIWbchlEeqHQrAXZkR4t1v-8gqcWdWYlfGZ-eev-PR5vza3U550l7xjqweeeJqUK2WXp5US9GUmchEMdSON_jlflilRQ2g8mN5Mkw9Jf8WBcbBZlS_5tI4OuIkhOIdkp-Bs/s400/13-cut+to+size.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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In the manner of your choice, mark a shoulder reinforcement alignment guide onto the division stripe ⅜" from the folded/edge-stitched edges. </div>
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You may wish to use tailor's chalk or a disappearing ink fabric marker, but we prefer to simply sew a basting stitch in contrasting thread over the entirety of the stripe.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOwqSQAsJXr3vlDB5d8fvo3IyJmhaqy3e8I_otlX8Blsoxc3jgNFAW_vkhHSkvXvqNAviWmFMnu7fAgotlnNx8dsf3cmzgD0DRoTwdiNC2hpooa3NMsm8vRgHLhxT8YJQloDow61hfK7E/s1600/14-guide+basted.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOwqSQAsJXr3vlDB5d8fvo3IyJmhaqy3e8I_otlX8Blsoxc3jgNFAW_vkhHSkvXvqNAviWmFMnu7fAgotlnNx8dsf3cmzgD0DRoTwdiNC2hpooa3NMsm8vRgHLhxT8YJQloDow61hfK7E/s400/14-guide+basted.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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You may wish to notch the division stripe fabric a bit along the curve to get it to lie flat, but if you're using bias-cut cotton twill, some gentle pressing and steam should get it to conform nicely to the curved edge.</div>
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Press your front shoulder reinforcement (piece G), then press under the hems on the lower and centermost edges, notching the lower edge as necessary to get it to smoothly conform to the curve. (We do recommend notching no farther than ⅜" from the raw edges, though!)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_DWqe0KGJXvzOIJxsDuzCMP_N2VNWMMLx2kIrDq8iiSPopvLMie4y_jxWRn6Uh7ULgxvSxiBwIRm-O0Xnw2mm7mbfrQFmd9pfOikUmzfMgSldLzt2h7QpzqVPcpbcX64QvwmetRqljJE/s1600/15a-hems+pressed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="295" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_DWqe0KGJXvzOIJxsDuzCMP_N2VNWMMLx2kIrDq8iiSPopvLMie4y_jxWRn6Uh7ULgxvSxiBwIRm-O0Xnw2mm7mbfrQFmd9pfOikUmzfMgSldLzt2h7QpzqVPcpbcX64QvwmetRqljJE/s400/15a-hems+pressed.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnqAEGAzhSJ6MbgNXhlwNfnolNVchUeXHXeb-v024rIixjOlohJDmzIkdvCsubb3pbuR-fBWoAjzBz68uvF8zbwK4UYnVL_3-wGLfVMyEg5uny8t0v5HKea1-7D62hxV7yluw1fab3ZSY/s1600/15b-hems+pressed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="295" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnqAEGAzhSJ6MbgNXhlwNfnolNVchUeXHXeb-v024rIixjOlohJDmzIkdvCsubb3pbuR-fBWoAjzBz68uvF8zbwK4UYnVL_3-wGLfVMyEg5uny8t0v5HKea1-7D62hxV7yluw1fab3ZSY/s400/15b-hems+pressed.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Pin the front shoulder reinforcement to the front body so its centermost and lower edges are flush with the guide (a basting stitch, in our case) and its shoulder edge is flush with that of the body.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilV-N0Fj6_Zt8dk2TEYoSgYkUGHQwsXpDQTPEfoZLH8sqfsUGTZ81mvuUZzt5eL-0J3uuwItjzgDRkWxTo6bxl_TmgwejNxJ5FK2-ffTalUJtXmgNWkEkMcza7Hg6foaCSUAS2Zy2hH7Y/s1600/16-pinned.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilV-N0Fj6_Zt8dk2TEYoSgYkUGHQwsXpDQTPEfoZLH8sqfsUGTZ81mvuUZzt5eL-0J3uuwItjzgDRkWxTo6bxl_TmgwejNxJ5FK2-ffTalUJtXmgNWkEkMcza7Hg6foaCSUAS2Zy2hH7Y/s400/16-pinned.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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TIP: We <i>highly</i> (and we do mean <i>HIGHLY</i>!) recommend tailor-basting the shoulder reinforcement to the front body prior to sewing it to the body. (See below.)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwOq3cNJ8UeVMQ_J9juQqeXhis9guzLYivTvm4axba7rfjulEN9iZq1KdG0Ap0ntlCAIWPXN6SSLUYi3tNLyvz_Z36xkSbKU-5YnkTqemQFL2x87H76RDkAK3DmkN00mK6Mi5vofoaEe8/s1600/17-tailor+basted.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="307" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwOq3cNJ8UeVMQ_J9juQqeXhis9guzLYivTvm4axba7rfjulEN9iZq1KdG0Ap0ntlCAIWPXN6SSLUYi3tNLyvz_Z36xkSbKU-5YnkTqemQFL2x87H76RDkAK3DmkN00mK6Mi5vofoaEe8/s400/17-tailor+basted.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Switching back to your blue thread, edge stitch the shoulder reinforcement to the body along the entirety of its perimeter. </div>
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We also recommend basting or sewing all the layers together ¼" and again ½" from the shoulder seam. </div>
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Once the shoulder reinforcement is secured to the jumpsuit body, press (using a liberal amount of steam!) the shoulder area between the hem allowances. With the tailor basting holding the two layers snug, they should adjust and snuggle with each other so that the whole shoulder lies nice and flat!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixQbN0msoxu54x5LI0bZmrZCZtyz4B6NniFZ8yOI62dWaYBCPMU-8X3sAmFH5coPDajdyoxMlmBzdQP2Aj9UIjtX1ht2C57s_4wQrmHGzOY9tb21RwY-yS8UI9H_F5drmvpY-MJ6gR98k/s1600/18-edge+stitched+and+basted.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="307" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixQbN0msoxu54x5LI0bZmrZCZtyz4B6NniFZ8yOI62dWaYBCPMU-8X3sAmFH5coPDajdyoxMlmBzdQP2Aj9UIjtX1ht2C57s_4wQrmHGzOY9tb21RwY-yS8UI9H_F5drmvpY-MJ6gR98k/s400/18-edge+stitched+and+basted.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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See how much better that looks?!?!? </div>
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(In case you somehow haven't realized it already, I'm a big fan of tailor-basting.) </div>
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If you basted your alignment guide, remove the basting stitches. If you marked it somehow, remove the mark.</div>
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Repeat for the other side.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbENM16DdmSdSW6eOOF9WXMuvJ4YQI1gZr-20yvCgorGyY-7D_9un1n3mgrGT1InhR4qXp3_hA9f3KJntN3IwxifqteCViRM3eEESkvFTKS3XDQ5ToO8llIC6zjbfnISUEzxrSUyngs0A/s1600/19-other+side.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbENM16DdmSdSW6eOOF9WXMuvJ4YQI1gZr-20yvCgorGyY-7D_9un1n3mgrGT1InhR4qXp3_hA9f3KJntN3IwxifqteCViRM3eEESkvFTKS3XDQ5ToO8llIC6zjbfnISUEzxrSUyngs0A/s400/19-other+side.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Repeat for the two back halves using the back shoulder reinforcement (piece H) and back body (piece C).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ0yKMX5oIOlpNhRSJL3oYr5eB2gqoPXLdKUtmbfNiHC9JHqmSezCHUI_CLsDlGTdRGEAGbV59PGvdexvvU-aEMpAwI1apovMDUDJJTZ-tNjJaJ8kMixtuYXNoYojzUKqmxWkhF5cLscQ/s1600/20-backs.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ0yKMX5oIOlpNhRSJL3oYr5eB2gqoPXLdKUtmbfNiHC9JHqmSezCHUI_CLsDlGTdRGEAGbV59PGvdexvvU-aEMpAwI1apovMDUDJJTZ-tNjJaJ8kMixtuYXNoYojzUKqmxWkhF5cLscQ/s400/20-backs.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-8-sleeves-to-body.html">Tutorial, part 8 - Sleeves to Body</a></b></div>
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-10-front-zipper-and-facing.html">Tutorial, part 10 - Front Zipper and Facing</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2047910053052640055.post-3738334436607658122015-11-16T20:28:00.001-08:002016-05-22T12:11:04.142-07:00Tutorial, part 8 - Sleeves to Body<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfkRbTbh2nwrSS28QXVBmK3GHJqPWrV8Y7Rh6OEmY4P0DDuDFuSf5WmYHsyTc4bINdb9hTEiIBuKUO0yPFxmiodJ0RDlIyhPC9d2mosizDeuneuuWoakuKc_VQKQQElMkPMu7fRGMCw24/s1600/Doctor+Who+dodgy+process.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfkRbTbh2nwrSS28QXVBmK3GHJqPWrV8Y7Rh6OEmY4P0DDuDFuSf5WmYHsyTc4bINdb9hTEiIBuKUO0yPFxmiodJ0RDlIyhPC9d2mosizDeuneuuWoakuKc_VQKQQElMkPMu7fRGMCw24/s400/Doctor+Who+dodgy+process.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's a bit dodgy, this process. </td></tr>
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The ENT jumpsuit sleeves are kind of funky in their construction, as you've probably noticed. </div>
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That said, it's not really more difficult than sewing any other wedge shapes/inside angles/inside corners (which you're no doubt familiar with if you've ever made a <b><a href="http://voyjumpsuit.blogspot.com/p/home-page.html" target="_blank">VOY jumpsuit</a></b> or <b><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/p/home-page.html" target="_blank">jacket</a></b>, or most of the <b><a href="http://ds9nemcaptainjacket.blogspot.com/p/home-page.html" target="_blank">DS9/NEM-era uniforms</a></b>.)</div>
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<tr>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS3D2giZDBSGjZK8r_qNk7n2YJEoS9rQAPfznJxRFQbediil7SJGWnWd8FoTZkiA2pVijD6_4GqMM53BlDfKc3ZZVzXBGUEIcC5XxqADTVfNWxhESnbvq_LE3eWNmdnF7hu6RfT_l6g2w/s1600/VOY+jacket+shoulder+point.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="175" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS3D2giZDBSGjZK8r_qNk7n2YJEoS9rQAPfznJxRFQbediil7SJGWnWd8FoTZkiA2pVijD6_4GqMM53BlDfKc3ZZVzXBGUEIcC5XxqADTVfNWxhESnbvq_LE3eWNmdnF7hu6RfT_l6g2w/s200/VOY+jacket+shoulder+point.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://voyjacket.blogspot.com/p/home-page.html" target="_blank">VOY jacket</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMck5JZye7ouCm7-cqVW-mv81hGRADu6Y_WYBgsUj4_I3Jj8-LItLo7svTRRudN982NtrBYCSsaXxvWjTOs99z-tH4nvc-MfTqAIxqYRGIvic4SdhPdhvoJNwMNTym0YS-DNZEaNTceD4/s1600/DS9+captain+jacket+shoulder+point.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="175" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMck5JZye7ouCm7-cqVW-mv81hGRADu6Y_WYBgsUj4_I3Jj8-LItLo7svTRRudN982NtrBYCSsaXxvWjTOs99z-tH4nvc-MfTqAIxqYRGIvic4SdhPdhvoJNwMNTym0YS-DNZEaNTceD4/s200/DS9+captain+jacket+shoulder+point.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://ds9nemcaptainjacket.blogspot.com/p/home-page.html" target="_blank">DS9/NEM "captain jacket"</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
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The biggest difference is that the ENT jumpsuit's armscye edges are slightly rounded rather than straight.</div>
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The first step is to identify the "pivot point" of the armscye stitch line on the front body. </div>
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To do so, mark your seam line using tailor's chalk (assuming you know for sure at this point that it steams away.) </div>
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The point at which the two lines overlap is your pivot point, and on the front body, it should be exactly at the upper edge of the chest pocket.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZkskbY-8JrQr_05ePDs1SwY-Qo9XoCUVbJFaM9Ac7_hlWsXOCdeGfxXHwjliV4lAql-shSB-AsrJE6zsrSmxo-LhGrmi9SeO31EMLS94BCoJml9NxhRBswTYuTuO-jZcMerW94b3B9Yg/s1600/1b-SA+marked+%2528good%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="307" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZkskbY-8JrQr_05ePDs1SwY-Qo9XoCUVbJFaM9Ac7_hlWsXOCdeGfxXHwjliV4lAql-shSB-AsrJE6zsrSmxo-LhGrmi9SeO31EMLS94BCoJml9NxhRBswTYuTuO-jZcMerW94b3B9Yg/s400/1b-SA+marked+%2528good%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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However, given the accumulation of the layers, pressing, serging, pinning, basting, and stitching, things may have shifted slightly, or there may have been a slight cutting error, and the pivot point may not align with the upper edge of the chest pocket.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7XTy5reQH14V1KWIbfQVz77oRs9x8hiby2U7myLD3QanWGCLtnIgZpc31DgqPbh64p5ePukQbMVjdV52TO2SB831ZT8I6mEWGPb3T6r-z_AinNkK7HfeBPx3GwXIRnOXRJsFAUuiD0gA/s1600/1a-SA+marked+%2528bad%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7XTy5reQH14V1KWIbfQVz77oRs9x8hiby2U7myLD3QanWGCLtnIgZpc31DgqPbh64p5ePukQbMVjdV52TO2SB831ZT8I6mEWGPb3T6r-z_AinNkK7HfeBPx3GwXIRnOXRJsFAUuiD0gA/s400/1a-SA+marked+%2528bad%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5yjGmQwZCSsh5xSTUyMZz_HJU74uJqff2zZpEvusxTiwaXL5-pXX7H1RNUun48s6bs-xz3QawazKmrUwg4m_MzRXAe4aOrwo2kqHzEHjZy1UESf_mV5OJZgQAiclVPk_NCAN7-QvG6QI/s1600/Indy+trust+me.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5yjGmQwZCSsh5xSTUyMZz_HJU74uJqff2zZpEvusxTiwaXL5-pXX7H1RNUun48s6bs-xz3QawazKmrUwg4m_MzRXAe4aOrwo2kqHzEHjZy1UESf_mV5OJZgQAiclVPk_NCAN7-QvG6QI/s200/Indy+trust+me.jpeg" width="177" /></a></div>
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If you find this to be the case, simply shift the seam line slightly so the pivot point is correctly aligned and adjust your seam allowance accordingly when attaching the sleeve.</div>
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It really does make a major difference; you want your finished sleeve to look like this:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Szq-25HkS3Ly2YUNL1jFQRm-mlXhyxvht-KhNeBmmzqOB4hF5sPUoqnvzgDwmnMwTR5t6trxL5qYgVqy5dPyF-UI987Rluk3RAIbsxXTaxu0XYoCjbmOA3vlw2VU6hRq-V5VtZuQN44/s1600/11b-sleeve+attached+%2528good%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="311" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Szq-25HkS3Ly2YUNL1jFQRm-mlXhyxvht-KhNeBmmzqOB4hF5sPUoqnvzgDwmnMwTR5t6trxL5qYgVqy5dPyF-UI987Rluk3RAIbsxXTaxu0XYoCjbmOA3vlw2VU6hRq-V5VtZuQN44/s400/11b-sleeve+attached+%2528good%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Not this!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsUpKDK8vKtZtrbMnpSXoUfE7_cdG30_Tnm1ldXvvzlpuK0_fvgbuuvmXvohRe77yqng6PwmNekyxdiqY4UfzE8OA-bmX56c0mpN2-sFwyGvD2fWG4GMxfd4rhbpS6bG4yUiAhz60U2bQ/s1600/11a-sleeve+attached+%2528bad%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="337" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsUpKDK8vKtZtrbMnpSXoUfE7_cdG30_Tnm1ldXvvzlpuK0_fvgbuuvmXvohRe77yqng6PwmNekyxdiqY4UfzE8OA-bmX56c0mpN2-sFwyGvD2fWG4GMxfd4rhbpS6bG4yUiAhz60U2bQ/s400/11a-sleeve+attached+%2528bad%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Once you have correctly identified the pivot point of your stitch line, diagonally clip the seam allowance to the stay-stitching. </div>
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<i>NOTE: On <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/09/analysis-part-19-sleeve-structure.html" target="_blank">the screen-used ENT jumpsuit "Lynsioux" photographed and shared</a></b>, the armscye was not clipped! However, we've found that diagonally clipping the armscye to the stay-stitching helps tremendously and makes the sleeve attachment process considerably easier!</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzBTgdYbs69idBAWx0BhTgLyFgvtzgm6x-ViueFejpNY8e4UdbVgjriFFA9nFd1tsWTxyB1R6eN0rI7_PjLoFL3QRAUiFtg2KadtsDSL_RjTPK13O0cDZvfheYYJnX1rYfkN1XFgIu8tw/s1600/Austin+Powers+meme.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzBTgdYbs69idBAWx0BhTgLyFgvtzgm6x-ViueFejpNY8e4UdbVgjriFFA9nFd1tsWTxyB1R6eN0rI7_PjLoFL3QRAUiFtg2KadtsDSL_RjTPK13O0cDZvfheYYJnX1rYfkN1XFgIu8tw/s320/Austin+Powers+meme.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Then identify the corresponding pivot point on your sleeves.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgovSoiNWC0n8eDqfed5mLqW0g55VEZkKIK4nyV-ph5xHPsAIYk2YvZxnmQKYJe5i6OXtv2b6559JSQY9Ti7ihIqyCnFPDutd5tKK6Z1-SUqgosv8Lg-iwt_WtvVuWx6JF0rY49fi5p_nc/s1600/3-sleeve+SA+marked.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgovSoiNWC0n8eDqfed5mLqW0g55VEZkKIK4nyV-ph5xHPsAIYk2YvZxnmQKYJe5i6OXtv2b6559JSQY9Ti7ihIqyCnFPDutd5tKK6Z1-SUqgosv8Lg-iwt_WtvVuWx6JF0rY49fi5p_nc/s400/3-sleeve+SA+marked.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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On <b><a href="http://badwolfcostumes.com/star-trek-enterprise-mens-jumpsuit-sewing-pattern/" target="_blank">our ENT jumpsuit pattern</a></b>, we have included a slight amount of ease on each of the armscye edges of the front sleeves (piece D) and back sleeves (piece E) - approximately ¼" on each edge. </div>
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This gives the sleeve some additional fullness and wearing ease, which is useful and welcome since the jumpsuit's shoulders are "sculpted" to fit the wearer as well as possible! </div>
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However, it does make the sleeve attachment process a bit more involved. </div>
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(Don't worry; we hate easing sleeves, so we've made it as easy as possible, and we'll walk you through it!)</div>
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If you're a seasoned tailor/costumer, you may be able to handle ¼" ease with no problem or additional aids. </div>
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However, given how imperative it is to properly align the pivot points on the sleeve and body, we prefer to not take the risk of just easing the sleeve edges in manually. </div>
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We recommend sewing two rows of gathering stitches within the seam allowance on each armscye edge of the sleeve, just as one typically would for a standard set-in sleeve. </div>
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If you're unfamiliar with the process (and you're wanting to make an ENT jumpsuit?!?), we recommend switching to a contrasting thread color, lowering your machine's thread tension, and setting your machine's stitch length to the longest option available (usually 4-5). </div>
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Sew a basting stitch ½" from each armscye edge of the sleeve, then another ¼" from each edge.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWcC6sZHaf-jqj42PWBbVeLoatV17whR00njb6CcPbY90PZkuWsQgVG2y2q4Jzw6lbbroFlS6ojBTNeEkA9kRB-fKOcOCNQ-_sKkHFd2to0SEwR3jXVep04D1UGGNKM3gVRlIABa8dnlo/s1600/4-gathering+stitches.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWcC6sZHaf-jqj42PWBbVeLoatV17whR00njb6CcPbY90PZkuWsQgVG2y2q4Jzw6lbbroFlS6ojBTNeEkA9kRB-fKOcOCNQ-_sKkHFd2to0SEwR3jXVep04D1UGGNKM3gVRlIABa8dnlo/s400/4-gathering+stitches.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Gently (but firmly - it is denim, after all!) pull the fabric along the bobbin threads slightly to "shrink" the armscye edges by about ¼". We like to "overshoot" a bit and gather about ⅜" or even ½", since it's easier to pull it back out a little as needed than to try to ease that last extra bit in right at the end (ugh).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkCzv5vquIx1v9ow829aMvOhkF4UNdvsw1Kaz5ftBz6paq-2cXC4Jt6c2ovgOtaFI8q5VrhjSFNKYNXy-llriyf6MIwB7a36qfmNBGrSPt05O0ytbbJ1riWhCOS1VK8tadV_4QdFmwk6k/s1600/5-sleeve+gathered.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkCzv5vquIx1v9ow829aMvOhkF4UNdvsw1Kaz5ftBz6paq-2cXC4Jt6c2ovgOtaFI8q5VrhjSFNKYNXy-llriyf6MIwB7a36qfmNBGrSPt05O0ytbbJ1riWhCOS1VK8tadV_4QdFmwk6k/s400/5-sleeve+gathered.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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This will cause the fabric to contort a little bit, but don't worry!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP65GUl8cazdVEzczLfhLPTZ-ji8cWkL1OEvh5TM7SufLipWQR6gZ77NySZzgd-pfmlpTPS_xcNzznnlQVQrJEAMK9OUB0gYBRSHJ9Zcc4W31Z1wvqSCSH6yZXW2LyfXK9IOagrypMtU0/s1600/Tailor%2527s+ham.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="128" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP65GUl8cazdVEzczLfhLPTZ-ji8cWkL1OEvh5TM7SufLipWQR6gZ77NySZzgd-pfmlpTPS_xcNzznnlQVQrJEAMK9OUB0gYBRSHJ9Zcc4W31Z1wvqSCSH6yZXW2LyfXK9IOagrypMtU0/s200/Tailor%2527s+ham.jpg" width="200" /></a>Drape one armscye edge of the sleeve over a tailor's ham. Heavily steam, then gently press the gathered fabric (still steaming). The armscye edge, having only minimal ease and being cotton, should eventually conform to the reduced size of the edge. </div>
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Don't press past about ¾" from the edge, though, or you'll start to actually reduce the fullness that the sleeve ease creates!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaW6A7aAFVsgTQdSYwK_yxp2w6bAE3WVVzxLimlAuaW7Xxrmv-owuYFcUFre-u1M7Xd0BoqQuthEdToatc_hYlx7vRXekWDXMcBHNiCK6arCZdmnO2yLlgQU7puzoCu1IiC974btGWQPE/s1600/6a-sleeve+ease+pressed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="283" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaW6A7aAFVsgTQdSYwK_yxp2w6bAE3WVVzxLimlAuaW7Xxrmv-owuYFcUFre-u1M7Xd0BoqQuthEdToatc_hYlx7vRXekWDXMcBHNiCK6arCZdmnO2yLlgQU7puzoCu1IiC974btGWQPE/s400/6a-sleeve+ease+pressed.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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TIP: Contrary to the above photo, press the sleeve's armscye ease from the RIGHT side!</div>
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The goal is to have no puckers or folds along the armscye seam lines.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC2WiKsxB7AZ_OMmicbNkacH8SXOUPilIH-07BjdX0HCqQkgUdfqxC3JWIEszB-DEcnBmd0qHlqA_LP7RsYCD_KHm5CKeeY_ZlurjTxDEnv9C038ehwQQ6A24a7aSTL2EgDuBBqrjOaSE/s1600/6b-sleeve+ease+pressed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC2WiKsxB7AZ_OMmicbNkacH8SXOUPilIH-07BjdX0HCqQkgUdfqxC3JWIEszB-DEcnBmd0qHlqA_LP7RsYCD_KHm5CKeeY_ZlurjTxDEnv9C038ehwQQ6A24a7aSTL2EgDuBBqrjOaSE/s400/6b-sleeve+ease+pressed.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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(Yes, this will make the uppermost portion of the sleeve a bit warbly, but that's supposed to happen!)</div>
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Align the pivot points on the front body (piece B) and front sleeve (piece D). </div>
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Sew the front sleeve to the body, right sides together.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-gAXkE2QFRgrXkPLK8lBo_d93EAqcbBln2C8KKctDbEt_3tV5cWWYNcSzVcgwLVuWTQtNvLaZvLoTu0QRIyVhaoxmjRl9-FnOMh2Fz8gnu3nRIgeKv74KcxKmElcuMX7N2w-7LqSm68I/s1600/7-sewing+and+pivoting.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-gAXkE2QFRgrXkPLK8lBo_d93EAqcbBln2C8KKctDbEt_3tV5cWWYNcSzVcgwLVuWTQtNvLaZvLoTu0QRIyVhaoxmjRl9-FnOMh2Fz8gnu3nRIgeKv74KcxKmElcuMX7N2w-7LqSm68I/s400/7-sewing+and+pivoting.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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TIP: With the sleeve on top, stitch to the pivot point and stop with the needle still in the fabric. Lift the presser foot and rotate the sleeve so that the sleeve's other armscye edge is flush with the other edge of the body's armscye, lower the presser foot, and continue stitching.</div>
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Once attached, the underside of the sleeve will look something like this:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF7JXwcJfEHXqOj0q4MRwxReg2mK5Zk1S_Y5A84JPlkG_tnFO_cUAh1hYYt1gfVCEnaxlwTKsXQ2DOn-YK5JEsBnG9VPbj3Q3bhujZoG6ckN8vBN665MYlQ6AWw2B37vyFzPU4kWHcIHs/s1600/8-underside.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="185" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF7JXwcJfEHXqOj0q4MRwxReg2mK5Zk1S_Y5A84JPlkG_tnFO_cUAh1hYYt1gfVCEnaxlwTKsXQ2DOn-YK5JEsBnG9VPbj3Q3bhujZoG6ckN8vBN665MYlQ6AWw2B37vyFzPU4kWHcIHs/s400/8-underside.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Remove the rows of gathering stitches.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZQ0Y_XjN9l6EsBm0b4nn4IN-9eaJB0WKU60Q66RlwhYgLhnLw2bSq1PNYTZH6snSaAO7JXn10GoqI4zoAtQ4zoNrcB9eSncewDEhN9iCUFKNAVxhUcOG6Iv8Q3wqi1XfSrj7QohyPdKo/s1600/9-basting+stitches+removed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="172" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZQ0Y_XjN9l6EsBm0b4nn4IN-9eaJB0WKU60Q66RlwhYgLhnLw2bSq1PNYTZH6snSaAO7JXn10GoqI4zoAtQ4zoNrcB9eSncewDEhN9iCUFKNAVxhUcOG6Iv8Q3wqi1XfSrj7QohyPdKo/s400/9-basting+stitches+removed.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Notch the upper corner of the sleeve's seam allowance (the fabric you can see beneath the body's diagonally-clipped armscye) so the sleeve will lie flat at the corner.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxl7CF32-QV89BiYNDA5vLOfzrXBrs59PyeMICjvTlof0moH5xhsC4J65Po4hGA3XZr9ekRJ7FaRagk7E7oQ9LL1pqMUDIJnkwn7U27J9PAsPLn4B1ZYAiXBaAEyxfHQ3f2GOoTagTJDw/s1600/10-sleeve+SA+notched.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="195" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxl7CF32-QV89BiYNDA5vLOfzrXBrs59PyeMICjvTlof0moH5xhsC4J65Po4hGA3XZr9ekRJ7FaRagk7E7oQ9LL1pqMUDIJnkwn7U27J9PAsPLn4B1ZYAiXBaAEyxfHQ3f2GOoTagTJDw/s400/10-sleeve+SA+notched.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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From the wrong side, press the seam allowances toward the sleeve. </div>
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Typically one would probably not press from the right side, but we like to also press the sleeve away from the body on the right side.</div>
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Your finished sleeve should look like this:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Szq-25HkS3Ly2YUNL1jFQRm-mlXhyxvht-KhNeBmmzqOB4hF5sPUoqnvzgDwmnMwTR5t6trxL5qYgVqy5dPyF-UI987Rluk3RAIbsxXTaxu0XYoCjbmOA3vlw2VU6hRq-V5VtZuQN44/s1600/11b-sleeve+attached+%2528good%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="311" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Szq-25HkS3Ly2YUNL1jFQRm-mlXhyxvht-KhNeBmmzqOB4hF5sPUoqnvzgDwmnMwTR5t6trxL5qYgVqy5dPyF-UI987Rluk3RAIbsxXTaxu0XYoCjbmOA3vlw2VU6hRq-V5VtZuQN44/s400/11b-sleeve+attached+%2528good%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Repeat for the other side.</div>
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Repeat for the back body (piece C) and back sleeves (piece E).</div>
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-7-left-thigh-pocket.html">Tutorial, part 7 - Left Thigh Pocket</a></b></div>
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-9-division-stripes.html">Tutorial, part 9 - Division Stripes</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2047910053052640055.post-41968630694667900182015-11-16T20:12:00.002-08:002016-05-22T12:11:13.632-07:00Tutorial, part 7 - Left Thigh Pocket<div style="text-align: justify;">
With the exception of the second zipper, the left thigh pocket's construction and attachment is identical to that of <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-6-right-thigh-pocket.html" target="_blank">the right thigh pocket's</a></b>, but in the interest of thoroughness we will walk you through it here. </div>
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Install the left thigh pocket zippers as per <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-2-zipper-installation.html" target="_blank">our zipper installation tutorial</a></b>. </div>
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TIP: As we noted in <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/09/analysis-part-17e-left-thigh-pocket.html" target="_blank">our ENT jumpsuit analysis</a></b>, the precise <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/09/analysis-part-17e-left-thigh-pocket.html" target="_blank">placement</a></b> and <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/09/analysis-part-17f-left-thigh-pocket.html" target="_blank">height</a></b> of the left thigh pocket zippers varied, but on <b><a href="http://badwolfcostumes.com/star-trek-enterprise-mens-jumpsuit-sewing-pattern/" target="_blank">our ENT jumpsuit pattern</a></b>, the front zipper is positioned so its upper edge is ½" beneath the top edge of the pocket (1 ⅛" beneath the upper raw edge) and its centermost edge is ½" from the centermost edge of the pocket (2 ⅝" from the centermost raw edge). The back zipper's height and placement is the same as the right thigh pocket's zipper.</div>
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Press the pocket's hem allowances under.</div>
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TIP: We recommend pressing the upper and lower hem allowances under first, then the centermost and sides.</div>
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Next, press the centermost "expanding pocket" pleat by folding along the lines indicated on the printed pattern.</div>
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Keeping the centermost edge of the pocket folded, unfold the pleat underneath so there are only two layers of fabric (rather than four) at the center and edge stitch them together.</div>
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However you chose to vertically position your right thigh pocket, also do so with the left thigh pocket. </div>
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(In other words, if you positioned your right thigh pocket so its upper edge was 2" beneath the lower waist strap, position the left thigh pocket so its upper edge is 2" beneath the lower waist strap as well.) </div>
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Also, note that the left thigh pocket is taller than the right thigh pocket and will therefore extend lower! </div>
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Position the left thigh pocket onto the front body (piece B) so that its centermost edge is flush with the front alignment guide provided and its side edge is 1 ⅛" from and parallel to the raw side edge of the jumpsuit body.</div>
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Keeping the pleated fabric edge flush with the front alignment guide, carefully unfold the pocket by pulling it away from center. </div>
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Pin the pleated fabric into place (again, keeping the lower fold flush with the front alignment guide).</div>
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Edge stitch the lower folded edge of the pocket to the front body.</div>
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Fold the pocket back over to its proper position and pin into place around its perimeter.</div>
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TIP: Tailor-baste the pocket to the body to help secure the layers and prevent them from shifting and/or pulling while stitching. </div>
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TIP: Whip-stitch the centermost upper and lower corners of the pocket to the front body, with the upper fold <i>slightly</i> covering the lower (pleated) fold. This will help prevent any "peek-a-boo" from the lower (pleated) fold once finished.</div>
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As mentioned previously, the height of the "expanding pocket edge stitching" is largely a matter of personal preference, and we like to edge stitch the uppermost and lowermost 2" of our expanding pockets. </div>
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Regardless of your decision, we recommend consistently employing it on all the expanding pockets! </div>
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Beginning 2" above the centermost lower corner (or however high you prefer to secure your pocket) and ending the same distance above the centermost upper corner, edge stitch the perimeter of the right chest pocket to the body, reinforcing the stitching along the center edges and corners.</div>
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Lastly, horizontally topstitch through all layers ¼" from the upper and lower edges of the pocket.</div>
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You may now pull out the basting stitches if you'd like, but we prefer to leave ours in to keep the pocket flat during construction (only pulling out the whip-stitches at the corners).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg39APkuy1uWNDyIPMeFy6_z2540eNVYAvIn-_MX5uPSq_Pg2gYimaCnIC6sWQoIWdUK_BWWt7PtTZjuGs5gZYrXnmi-orb_7DMKO1JpETjmNOigeO8moQN55mpyJunrFM9OKCdaq4uEMQ/s1600/11-finished+pocket.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg39APkuy1uWNDyIPMeFy6_z2540eNVYAvIn-_MX5uPSq_Pg2gYimaCnIC6sWQoIWdUK_BWWt7PtTZjuGs5gZYrXnmi-orb_7DMKO1JpETjmNOigeO8moQN55mpyJunrFM9OKCdaq4uEMQ/s400/11-finished+pocket.JPG" width="318" /></a></div>
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Your front body panels should now look something like this.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgekBhHOMjFsvnkYKinPLwgte8v-6SMz_YD_abDKFFjsYzkgJbkClaQ-UQXRizgYisJ4MxyKf1myjXxlWYYcaNZ04Q-8u9oJlQxUl44zMzxewMoOFaV-lefmySaRBYIa6FwzneLlVDQ980/s1600/12-fronts.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgekBhHOMjFsvnkYKinPLwgte8v-6SMz_YD_abDKFFjsYzkgJbkClaQ-UQXRizgYisJ4MxyKf1myjXxlWYYcaNZ04Q-8u9oJlQxUl44zMzxewMoOFaV-lefmySaRBYIa6FwzneLlVDQ980/s400/12-fronts.JPG" width="327" /></a></div>
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-6-right-thigh-pocket.html">Tutorial, part 6 - Right Thigh Pocket</a></b></div>
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-8-sleeves-to-body.html">Tutorial, part 8 - Sleeves to Body</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2047910053052640055.post-45074401085196385682015-11-16T20:01:00.005-08:002016-05-22T12:11:18.298-07:00Tutorial, part 6 - Right Thigh Pocket<div style="text-align: justify;">
Being an expanding pocket, the right thigh pocket's construction and attachment are similar to that of the chest pockets'. </div>
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Install the right thigh pocket zipper as per <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-2-zipper-installation.html" target="_blank">our zipper installation tutorial</a></b>. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1adWHE-HcGesFnyRioYeYE9SYcl-xqaooxcnUbJ8Sau_pNf5eG10P4CPQdHv1RhuQWiBCEAO05SgQ-X_IGobgBSYaEAOVLhcA9dRUzdqe6fMIdiLoVnhwKqxuGNNRlKy8go_PGyJ6NPY/s1600/1-zipper+installed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1adWHE-HcGesFnyRioYeYE9SYcl-xqaooxcnUbJ8Sau_pNf5eG10P4CPQdHv1RhuQWiBCEAO05SgQ-X_IGobgBSYaEAOVLhcA9dRUzdqe6fMIdiLoVnhwKqxuGNNRlKy8go_PGyJ6NPY/s400/1-zipper+installed.JPG" width="321" /></a></div>
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TIP: On <b><a href="http://badwolfcostumes.com/star-trek-enterprise-mens-jumpsuit-sewing-pattern/" target="_blank">our ENT jumpsuit pattern</a></b>, the zipper is 8" tall and positioned such that is ½" from the upper and side edges (a total of 1 ⅛" from the raw edges of the pocket pattern piece).</div>
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Press the pocket's hem allowances under.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdWM8_WRD757YuJaRXGBSyO1x5Onj98uefj43rgOD56SGI8ZsZ87gY2SIytTr9qcX3Hml-e4Zo0sSINCQ-HBDLoLOXmi_fqza2f2JfA_2IrLeyY7keJtneZO32tUvprnn-eUuDojcIs-g/s1600/2-hems+pressed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdWM8_WRD757YuJaRXGBSyO1x5Onj98uefj43rgOD56SGI8ZsZ87gY2SIytTr9qcX3Hml-e4Zo0sSINCQ-HBDLoLOXmi_fqza2f2JfA_2IrLeyY7keJtneZO32tUvprnn-eUuDojcIs-g/s400/2-hems+pressed.JPG" width="296" /></a></div>
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TIP: We recommend pressing the upper and lower hem allowances under first, then the centermost and sides.</div>
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Next, press the centermost "expanding pocket" pleat by folding along the lines indicated on the printed pattern.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggJTb2el4Do68tBWNc0gm219beZtDybNIyzPTCZqWW6bZGXkPhuZyuSHwTTGROk5wKCJBMB9I6wIm5u8x1spTIqVpxsx8QTRalJAjdLmDvEMD9Lt10FicI6SvvdgfKhg53BhawgH068jM/s1600/3-pleat+pressed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggJTb2el4Do68tBWNc0gm219beZtDybNIyzPTCZqWW6bZGXkPhuZyuSHwTTGROk5wKCJBMB9I6wIm5u8x1spTIqVpxsx8QTRalJAjdLmDvEMD9Lt10FicI6SvvdgfKhg53BhawgH068jM/s400/3-pleat+pressed.JPG" width="265" /></a></div>
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Keeping the centermost edge of the pocket folded, unfold the pleat underneath so there are only two layers of fabric (rather than four) at the center and edge stitch them together.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDsSs1AleztIxWXG5sJ9TswwV6iS7S4lCm0v_LXCL5h7wOEj2kMAojbOg-sRXNqMhrqUeH_3NR3M7kv8TuvIJvahvntl9quPR6xDw1SnB0SAApo946IksbMdQlBhBsRl8KnZz0Te5ubZg/s1600/4-left+thigh+pocket+combined.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="343" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDsSs1AleztIxWXG5sJ9TswwV6iS7S4lCm0v_LXCL5h7wOEj2kMAojbOg-sRXNqMhrqUeH_3NR3M7kv8TuvIJvahvntl9quPR6xDw1SnB0SAApo946IksbMdQlBhBsRl8KnZz0Te5ubZg/s400/4-left+thigh+pocket+combined.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(Left thigh pocket pictured above - we forgot to grab a photo of this step on the right thigh pocket!)</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBD2UdmXhtUwbeRCbVVQtS217VuCpUhEv9ZtlZEdtPIVwl7sN7PhuAKGOAnzNBcEZTHN6-hGqBSkWwxjKf13Hi_HzwVR5wgM4JJw8UDeIw-Md41FiZQpWkyHBT7tcdT9j2NYx0QGZl5PY/s1600/11th+Doctor+sorry.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBD2UdmXhtUwbeRCbVVQtS217VuCpUhEv9ZtlZEdtPIVwl7sN7PhuAKGOAnzNBcEZTHN6-hGqBSkWwxjKf13Hi_HzwVR5wgM4JJw8UDeIw-Md41FiZQpWkyHBT7tcdT9j2NYx0QGZl5PY/s320/11th+Doctor+sorry.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/09/analysis-part-15-thigh-pocket-placements.html" target="_blank">As you may recall from our ENT jumpsuit analysis, the specific vertical placement of the thigh pockets varied considerably, ranging from almost directly beneath the (lower) waist strap to 3" beneath it.</a></b> </div>
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I (Alex) prefer to position mine 2" beneath the lower waist strap, but the thigh pocket positioning is largely a matter of personal preference. If you lengthened or shortened the pattern along one of the sets of adjustment lines, that will probably be a consideration as well. </div>
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That said, position the right thigh pocket onto the front body (piece B) so that its centermost edge is flush with the front alignment guide provided and its side edge is 1 ⅛" from and parallel to the raw side edge of the jumpsuit body.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifkc_GO8jBfJHDcdB-yF7HdSdXQyjuS_xWEVS8o4u7wvxYvWGGUHMxlwWciR75HB1F8q2O9QtXyQuuJ5f0c5pVYgvOtUnB92HFxDp8GVJFV8KX9uUhyphenhyphenmbvKb35eJ_p77a2U7kL_uWLJMY/s1600/5-positioned.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifkc_GO8jBfJHDcdB-yF7HdSdXQyjuS_xWEVS8o4u7wvxYvWGGUHMxlwWciR75HB1F8q2O9QtXyQuuJ5f0c5pVYgvOtUnB92HFxDp8GVJFV8KX9uUhyphenhyphenmbvKb35eJ_p77a2U7kL_uWLJMY/s400/5-positioned.JPG" width="286" /></a></div>
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Keeping the pleated fabric edge flush with the front alignment guide, carefully unfold the pocket by pulling it away from center. </div>
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Pin the pleated fabric into place (again, keeping the lower fold flush with the front alignment guide).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh30V1OZm2fVq9tMQrimg64SThQ1ioMlCa2z1-UZTLJZkFG8UihF5JaXpqqsvm7XtlofKxVw0yV4ND0Uy30w9W3uWAuM8KqBeEwXKJoNgAQ1PKKqERQOJxQck8wxHNLwHH3bgtsINZSrUo/s1600/6-center+edge+pinned.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh30V1OZm2fVq9tMQrimg64SThQ1ioMlCa2z1-UZTLJZkFG8UihF5JaXpqqsvm7XtlofKxVw0yV4ND0Uy30w9W3uWAuM8KqBeEwXKJoNgAQ1PKKqERQOJxQck8wxHNLwHH3bgtsINZSrUo/s400/6-center+edge+pinned.JPG" width="287" /></a></div>
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Edge stitch the lower folded edge of the pocket to the front body.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjru3u_gHDuqL360U88Zclt7osXwSNZYqbW2Y0v2zsfAFmdwZzk4BsCh7tfTItKcpB3Wfo9lSuVKKNRHPS-Qr739ySfLO8a8exu1tf3GM98PeK0SDRHH6pDLt-Mje-CHAJzgd63jstbc5Q/s1600/7-center+edge+edge+stitched.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjru3u_gHDuqL360U88Zclt7osXwSNZYqbW2Y0v2zsfAFmdwZzk4BsCh7tfTItKcpB3Wfo9lSuVKKNRHPS-Qr739ySfLO8a8exu1tf3GM98PeK0SDRHH6pDLt-Mje-CHAJzgd63jstbc5Q/s400/7-center+edge+edge+stitched.JPG" width="308" /></a></div>
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Fold the pocket back over to its proper position and pin into place around its perimeter.</div>
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TIP: Tailor-baste the pocket to the body to help secure the layers and prevent them from shifting and/or pulling while stitching. </div>
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TIP: Whip-stitch the centermost upper and lower corners of the pocket to the front body, with the upper fold <i>slightly</i> covering the lower (pleated) fold. This will help prevent any "peek-a-boo" from the lower (pleated) fold once finished.</div>
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As with the chest pockets, the height of the "expanding pocket edge stitching" is largely a matter of personal preference. </div>
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And as mentioned previously in our chest pocket sections, we like to edge stitch the uppermost and lowermost 2" of our expanding pockets. </div>
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Regardless of your decision, we recommend consistently employing it on all the expanding pockets! </div>
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Beginning 2" above the centermost lower corner (or however high you prefer to secure your pocket) and ending the same distance above the centermost upper corner, edge stitch the perimeter of the right thigh pocket to the body, reinforcing the stitching along the center edges and corners.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhron-4Ziq6YJfF-nueu6hk7mYc4XF4t7LMwRlOVcaLJBHAlqGeK2o1KKVDbY-l8wABN4rSH2xGAxT0WG7EDypTAypPs09qiV6L76NKGNP-9ko4iB11r9jmqIGo00TcJWVoCcnDDjFnM4c/s1600/9-edge+stitched.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhron-4Ziq6YJfF-nueu6hk7mYc4XF4t7LMwRlOVcaLJBHAlqGeK2o1KKVDbY-l8wABN4rSH2xGAxT0WG7EDypTAypPs09qiV6L76NKGNP-9ko4iB11r9jmqIGo00TcJWVoCcnDDjFnM4c/s400/9-edge+stitched.JPG" width="312" /></a></div>
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Lastly, horizontally topstitch through all layers ¼" from the upper and lower edges of the pocket.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSdx6O_wtPRgScno30PXcqFWaB0iiPhVAwapyzcD6OnQ4q5ZwWQMTW3uqhFEet_yZecUE4owXHXURqEfusigRxKPIsEeJyiJ2nnJYwqEklXxBf-cqi0FBGySkHJFe8LyYHQyKQJpcqYyo/s1600/10-topstitched.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSdx6O_wtPRgScno30PXcqFWaB0iiPhVAwapyzcD6OnQ4q5ZwWQMTW3uqhFEet_yZecUE4owXHXURqEfusigRxKPIsEeJyiJ2nnJYwqEklXxBf-cqi0FBGySkHJFe8LyYHQyKQJpcqYyo/s400/10-topstitched.JPG" width="316" /></a></div>
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You may now pull out the basting stitches if you'd like, but we prefer to leave ours in to keep the pocket flat during construction (only pulling out the whip-stitches at the corners).</div>
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Your right thigh pocket is now finished!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNI15nHOatvUKJuaLDC4ybEYv4rtY2FKpe-THPK30CSGpQnlA2Y5aUPcGMMkO76C-O2WhtstFK-8Sjp5f__RogB5-gZbO-iQXrf4U6BvI_EDgCjBLmixp44BmRvJwyZTd41ymvixWeahQ/s1600/11-finished+pocket.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNI15nHOatvUKJuaLDC4ybEYv4rtY2FKpe-THPK30CSGpQnlA2Y5aUPcGMMkO76C-O2WhtstFK-8Sjp5f__RogB5-gZbO-iQXrf4U6BvI_EDgCjBLmixp44BmRvJwyZTd41ymvixWeahQ/s400/11-finished+pocket.JPG" width="308" /></a></div>
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-5-waist-straps.html">Tutorial, part 5 - Waist Straps</a></b></div>
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-7-left-thigh-pocket.html">Tutorial, part 7 - Left Thigh Pocket</a></b></div>
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Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2047910053052640055.post-51161181266156586062015-11-16T19:50:00.003-08:002016-05-22T12:11:23.003-07:00Tutorial, part 5 - Waist Straps<div style="text-align: justify;">
Fold one end of the waist strap (piece M) back on itself, the long way and right sides together, by 6". </div>
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(Do not press!)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmEaVN1u28YSsK3T6jYdTw68EPGw4jiRW_VG01p2kmqLFT4IRcJYVcuyvkxKSRYMyISJOtnwUMshEq6q5wY1ZtSVZ1Ys_533Sr_UsCdS7e9Wvf0bu9hLstnpCGDHAFWSoWsJ4FjutTXtc/s1600/1-folded.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="147" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmEaVN1u28YSsK3T6jYdTw68EPGw4jiRW_VG01p2kmqLFT4IRcJYVcuyvkxKSRYMyISJOtnwUMshEq6q5wY1ZtSVZ1Ys_533Sr_UsCdS7e9Wvf0bu9hLstnpCGDHAFWSoWsJ4FjutTXtc/s400/1-folded.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Using your tailor's chalk (or a disappearing ink fabric marker, if you prefer), draw a line ½" from the folded, upper, and lower edges.</div>
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Draw another line 1 ½" from the folded edge, then connect that line to the previous line (½" from the folded edge) via two diagonal lines, forming a triangle. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzNoaG2hgodIOoeV_PLa0hEFj4vh7GYAew5BAtCNDRZ04dd5IXgujBnE1jTdFwyNA1lq_rgKwbbIFd7opGAuPQMpcmkzmndjm0DRgPFkjcP9LVJt0nP-wWjyzUw_prgVH3YOpU-sBHnGo/s1600/2-stitch+line.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="162" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzNoaG2hgodIOoeV_PLa0hEFj4vh7GYAew5BAtCNDRZ04dd5IXgujBnE1jTdFwyNA1lq_rgKwbbIFd7opGAuPQMpcmkzmndjm0DRgPFkjcP9LVJt0nP-wWjyzUw_prgVH3YOpU-sBHnGo/s400/2-stitch+line.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Beginning on the upper edge of the two layers, stitch along the line, pivoting at the edges of the triangle and partially along the lower line (perhaps an inch or so past the edge of the triangle), thoroughly reinforcing the stitching at the corners. </div>
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This will form a hook, or sideways figure-J shape.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeXjZKRgnYkcVzklw25kDTGV_CDis2tqIEotE_sG_t4LVw9D7YOfcwovfts1Wq2BrpS29lolFwyc-v0jL5vDYR1r812Yesap_VMXTgfxGoykwS-leQNbp0YfJlazU7hPftCMs3Pqmr-t4/s1600/3-stitched.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="155" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeXjZKRgnYkcVzklw25kDTGV_CDis2tqIEotE_sG_t4LVw9D7YOfcwovfts1Wq2BrpS29lolFwyc-v0jL5vDYR1r812Yesap_VMXTgfxGoykwS-leQNbp0YfJlazU7hPftCMs3Pqmr-t4/s400/3-stitched.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Cut away the seam allowances as close as you dare to the edges of the triangle.</div>
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Turn the strap right-sides-out, poking (or pulling, if you prefer) the back corner out so it's as pointy as possible. It can be hard to get a sharp point with the denim but just do your best! </div>
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Press the back of the strap, then turn under the remaining upper and lower edges ½" and press. </div>
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The strap should be 1" wide until the backmost 1" or so.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhofejFfDtdAqf_PJ_fe6pDiE_lLhJqZbCWmuxU_1ta1tSNZcgtHsuP94teXlHS5qDdCZVWgcwAdMODQ5SHMKTStiBhKJoc0LKogWN21zD5gryW6YWd68N04hNamvfArMYa31aPp4uQd2w/s1600/5-turned+and+pressed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="95" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhofejFfDtdAqf_PJ_fe6pDiE_lLhJqZbCWmuxU_1ta1tSNZcgtHsuP94teXlHS5qDdCZVWgcwAdMODQ5SHMKTStiBhKJoc0LKogWN21zD5gryW6YWd68N04hNamvfArMYa31aPp4uQd2w/s400/5-turned+and+pressed.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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From the right side, topstitch ¼" from the edges of the waist strap along its perimeter, then topstitch halfway between these two rows (each being ¼" away)from the raw edge to the topstitched point at the back.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoT7biVHcugM-_DKZzAc7xCbHxuXnu-twepdqGx8PkQBQzZqUSCl-5GpSevaHQ6_6oGaMTE-Mr9G1WApzNjUipmO22nxsRs2CHA05W7fl-5CDYAxKT76F5Mm3Etb3Ee7k3DulroQ30vJo/s1600/6-topstitched.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="78" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoT7biVHcugM-_DKZzAc7xCbHxuXnu-twepdqGx8PkQBQzZqUSCl-5GpSevaHQ6_6oGaMTE-Mr9G1WApzNjUipmO22nxsRs2CHA05W7fl-5CDYAxKT76F5Mm3Etb3Ee7k3DulroQ30vJo/s400/6-topstitched.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Edge-stitch the waist strap along the entirety of its perimeter (except the raw edge at the front).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsYIwzIM5OuPs6xlpkdGg0QePupOQDjJdcn6P4ym7aeS-Go9Qf5SjDyCPGzizcqoYjXkbG2DJvdfdTVPcJSwODIJrplu-7MxxN0jTrrnIQaX3vfAhh0ELeso9BktgH3qgwFkyBmrfKGxE/s1600/7a-edge+stitched.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="72" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsYIwzIM5OuPs6xlpkdGg0QePupOQDjJdcn6P4ym7aeS-Go9Qf5SjDyCPGzizcqoYjXkbG2DJvdfdTVPcJSwODIJrplu-7MxxN0jTrrnIQaX3vfAhh0ELeso9BktgH3qgwFkyBmrfKGxE/s400/7a-edge+stitched.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtGzDCg_i-8OB2f5tGORd-X96qJBOq9Zk1d0sWIe9W9cyFwoSThndLQIVKQjDpxAgVnV92xMbabAc5EZCc_fprgn6FvbrZhi6muUdF7QBEqkCLbdggDH4jdjucGjmCUfox9b1zCteL4EY/s1600/7b-edge+stitched.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtGzDCg_i-8OB2f5tGORd-X96qJBOq9Zk1d0sWIe9W9cyFwoSThndLQIVKQjDpxAgVnV92xMbabAc5EZCc_fprgn6FvbrZhi6muUdF7QBEqkCLbdggDH4jdjucGjmCUfox9b1zCteL4EY/s400/7b-edge+stitched.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Sew, then slash (or chisel!) an appropriately-sized buttonhole at the back of the strap between the rows of topstitching.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieNKzUAbJfSyqoGxffglYJpWsnypk-rHZBoSe0Br7L79wPjMQ-fHQqqJsRwQsaDXfexOKQG5YHCVvX0wu32I9EjcCJ2spH8PqBbuzcRF66oOdEXj-Ljznzk7ne_XsVoac4xtLHWdjR-v0/s1600/8-buttonhole.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="160" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieNKzUAbJfSyqoGxffglYJpWsnypk-rHZBoSe0Br7L79wPjMQ-fHQqqJsRwQsaDXfexOKQG5YHCVvX0wu32I9EjcCJ2spH8PqBbuzcRF66oOdEXj-Ljznzk7ne_XsVoac4xtLHWdjR-v0/s400/8-buttonhole.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Repeat for the other waist straps. </div>
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Press the straps nice and flat.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsw_-BmSC4n5MqLDTYipTXilmApK_QPVzbD6VO2Q7DsuSfxq1nLDwGKblaMN1vvMHHgJMuhakHxv2Tj3m_ceL2aOMWPH5V9_BFgItia9uVFLHwJhOS8Hk4sjqXXMjgAfVbgqmrzyN0Z64/s1600/9-repeated.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsw_-BmSC4n5MqLDTYipTXilmApK_QPVzbD6VO2Q7DsuSfxq1nLDwGKblaMN1vvMHHgJMuhakHxv2Tj3m_ceL2aOMWPH5V9_BFgItia9uVFLHwJhOS8Hk4sjqXXMjgAfVbgqmrzyN0Z64/s400/9-repeated.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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(As you can see, some may turn out better than others; fortunately, these require very little fabric and a relatively small amount of time, so if you're especially unhappy with any of them just make more until you have enough good ones!)</div>
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Press the front of the waist straps under 1".</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyGXxawP0fDiQ9M_F41-bjtMVyOZy3uwbeKuMNzpdih7LYFBqxjA8WryLF0UvmNudseNPpe-oxD6z3IhtHWgctIcuLD0Ut0yGI4C02gfj_3Wru-XBEU6PxafCUcA-1FYUW-Qc5GkDxosg/s1600/10-front+hemmed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="62" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyGXxawP0fDiQ9M_F41-bjtMVyOZy3uwbeKuMNzpdih7LYFBqxjA8WryLF0UvmNudseNPpe-oxD6z3IhtHWgctIcuLD0Ut0yGI4C02gfj_3Wru-XBEU6PxafCUcA-1FYUW-Qc5GkDxosg/s400/10-front+hemmed.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Position the upper waist strap so it's flush with the bottom of the chest pocket, and its front edge is flush with the front alignment guide (3 ⅝" from the raw center edge of the front body). </div>
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Edge-stitch the waist strap into place, leaving the back portion hanging free.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXkRtvtQP2VRJNFm_OK9ATsfk1Lskz1OZL2cFZxDt8hbg7squXDuCtm2CG_YG6bUD5E0go65tbU0TOZa5wccwiI_9ZCnlskfUWHSXMPtv7fKf4MqwXaIL69deVtg3vngI6knW3kgNbFwI/s1600/11-upper+waistband+attached.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXkRtvtQP2VRJNFm_OK9ATsfk1Lskz1OZL2cFZxDt8hbg7squXDuCtm2CG_YG6bUD5E0go65tbU0TOZa5wccwiI_9ZCnlskfUWHSXMPtv7fKf4MqwXaIL69deVtg3vngI6knW3kgNbFwI/s400/11-upper+waistband+attached.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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TIP: We recommend beginning and ending the stitching about 1" from the jumpsuit body's side edge (shown with chalk in the photo above), to make it easier to pull the straps out of the way when closing the side seams later.</div>
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Position the lower waist strap ½" beneath the upper waist strap and attach it in the same manner.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1ztYjwyrkn6wq7viOTsjx8X6o9o5G9jCLXQb0s2JhNTK10uPVGC_O7YhdbVdXpAA5PJK3XdlVdRZmyljxG_bAENHfbZHNUlPCmhFwblMywQElrCAGQAILQmFLA-a8WmpO5VBL4KyJhJo/s1600/12-lower+waistband+attached.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1ztYjwyrkn6wq7viOTsjx8X6o9o5G9jCLXQb0s2JhNTK10uPVGC_O7YhdbVdXpAA5PJK3XdlVdRZmyljxG_bAENHfbZHNUlPCmhFwblMywQElrCAGQAILQmFLA-a8WmpO5VBL4KyJhJo/s400/12-lower+waistband+attached.JPG" width="288" /></a></div>
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Repeat for the other side.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxdBNwIzAoqNlFg1uu_xPpVh24N526BPGua6JqYP7iWoRZKyohDTtiWMDcuM0eR1qogQ3-KLh8PI14cFJs9suL-y2_b92wy_3WlI1niSBbCESQmWhEJVn9g4vrsb1rTzk4v6tSDTnrgGE/s1600/13-both+sides.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxdBNwIzAoqNlFg1uu_xPpVh24N526BPGua6JqYP7iWoRZKyohDTtiWMDcuM0eR1qogQ3-KLh8PI14cFJs9suL-y2_b92wy_3WlI1niSBbCESQmWhEJVn9g4vrsb1rTzk4v6tSDTnrgGE/s400/13-both+sides.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-4-left-chest-pocket.html">Tutorial, part 4 - Left Chest Pocket</a></b></div>
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-6-right-thigh-pocket.html">Tutorial, part 6 - Right Thigh Pocket</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2047910053052640055.post-62002728544193916272015-11-16T19:43:00.003-08:002016-05-22T12:11:27.393-07:00Tutorial, part 4 - Left Chest Pocket<div style="text-align: justify;">
The left chest pocket's construction is essentially the same as <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-3-right-chest-pocket-and.html" target="_blank">the right chest pocket'</a></b>s, with the exception of the zipper placement and pencil pocket, but we'll walk you through it here as well. </div>
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Install the left chest pocket zipper as per <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-2-zipper-installation.html" target="_blank">our zipper installation tutorial</a></b>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs9yu8tFwSSf9KbWnFKx70A0XIFNFG41zdaaowLcDulBVEy3LVH-rQc9NyBT2b0FTQgv1cP76s1nNCwQF2APMUm8G62XL4QdjWeOCARoNxAtSIir1NGiJDWiQy6bbYxy7laW3xO_7ynkQ/s1600/1-zipper+installed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs9yu8tFwSSf9KbWnFKx70A0XIFNFG41zdaaowLcDulBVEy3LVH-rQc9NyBT2b0FTQgv1cP76s1nNCwQF2APMUm8G62XL4QdjWeOCARoNxAtSIir1NGiJDWiQy6bbYxy7laW3xO_7ynkQ/s400/1-zipper+installed.JPG" width="342" /></a></div>
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TIP: As we noted in <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/09/analysis-part-11c-left-chest-pocket.html" target="_blank">our ENT jumpsuit analysis</a></b>, the precise <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/09/analysis-part-11c-left-chest-pocket.html" target="_blank">placement</a></b> and <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/09/analysis-part-11g-left-chest-pocket.html" target="_blank">height</a></b> of the zipper varied considerably, but on our pattern, the zipper is 6" tall and positioned so its upper edge is ½" beneath the top edge of the pocket (1 ⅛" beneath the upper raw edge) and its centermost edge is ½" from the centermost edge of the pocket (2 ⅝" from the centermost raw edge).</div>
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Press the pocket's upper, centermost, lower, and side hem allowances under. </div>
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Note that the armscye edge of the pocket has no hem allowance! It will get sewn into the sleeve.</div>
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TIP: We recommend pressing the upper and lower hem allowances under first, then the centermost and sides. </div>
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TIP: At the top, clip the outer edges of the hem allowance to help it conform to the slight upward curve.</div>
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Next, press the centermost "expanding pocket" pleat by folding along the lines indicated on the printed pattern.</div>
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Keeping the centermost edge of the pocket folded, unfold the pleat underneath so there are only two layers of fabric (rather than four) at the center and edge stitch them together.</div>
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Position the left chest pocket onto the front body (piece B) so that its upper edge is flush with the division stripe alignment guide, its center edge is flush with the front alignment guide, and its armscye edge is flush with the body's armscye edge.</div>
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Keeping the pleated fabric edge flush with the front alignment guide, carefully unfold the pocket by pulling it away from center. </div>
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Pin the pleated fabric into place (again, keeping the lower fold flush with the front alignment guide).</div>
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Edge stitch the lower folded edge of the pocket to the front body.</div>
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Fold the pocket back over to its proper position and pin into place around its perimeter.</div>
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TIP: Tailor-baste the pocket to the body to help secure the layers and prevent them from shifting and/or pulling while stitching. </div>
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TIP: Whip-stitch the centermost upper and lower corners of the pocket to the front body, with the upper fold slightly covering the lower (pleated) fold. This will help prevent any "peek-a-boo" from the lower (pleated) fold once finished.</div>
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As you may recall from <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/09/analysis-part-11b-left-chest-pocket.html" target="_blank">our ENT jumpsuit analysis</a></b> (and as with the right chest pocket), <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/09/analysis-part-11b-left-chest-pocket.html" target="_blank">the "expanding pocket edge stitching" varied in height</a></b>, so it's really just a matter of personal preference. </div>
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As mentioned previously in the right chest pocket section, we like to edge stitch the uppermost and lowermost 2" of our expanding pockets. </div>
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Regardless of your decision, we recommend consistently employing it on all the expanding pockets!</div>
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Beginning 2" above the centermost lower corner (or however high you prefer to secure your pocket) and ending the same distance above the centermost upper corner, edge stitch the perimeter of the right chest pocket to the body, reinforcing the stitching along the center edges and corners.</div>
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TIP: Stay-stitch the armscye ½" from the edges, further securing the armscye edge of the pocket to the body!</div>
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Lastly, horizontally topstitch through all layers ¼" from the upper and lower edges of the pocket.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpgpbiTz-VeDiw2-bm1XOXmzDD-BZmi8YsHtR_y0qyV7mHETiaxK8mQKDJhJa7j9Rpg-8Ir1hMFcohAMuA771MIevR5OjlVOfAZT0ZcgdED-K8RZb0iE0ihwZMUHrBTV7xLGe6F8W-xvU/s1600/7-topstitching.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpgpbiTz-VeDiw2-bm1XOXmzDD-BZmi8YsHtR_y0qyV7mHETiaxK8mQKDJhJa7j9Rpg-8Ir1hMFcohAMuA771MIevR5OjlVOfAZT0ZcgdED-K8RZb0iE0ihwZMUHrBTV7xLGe6F8W-xvU/s400/7-topstitching.JPG" width="287" /></a></div>
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You may now pull out the basting stitches if you'd like, but we prefer to leave ours in to keep the pocket flat during construction (only pulling out the whip-stitches at the corners).</div>
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Both of your chest pockets are now finished!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIyIf9PDHtvdeK6OKCoIdx4yUktxgjAg-A3kZ6cko9XOjOmhbp3g2HW0f_79Wmrf7rVjJR9balJJL_Cf50u73F34ZZs37lsDBlxP2rIZ6uR1d94cEgQzDpMGNoQFGoqrQcyYUaAvESmWc/s1600/8-finished+pockets.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="307" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIyIf9PDHtvdeK6OKCoIdx4yUktxgjAg-A3kZ6cko9XOjOmhbp3g2HW0f_79Wmrf7rVjJR9balJJL_Cf50u73F34ZZs37lsDBlxP2rIZ6uR1d94cEgQzDpMGNoQFGoqrQcyYUaAvESmWc/s400/8-finished+pockets.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-3-right-chest-pocket-and.html">Tutorial, part 3 - Right Chest Pocket and Pencil Pocket</a></b></div>
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-5-waist-straps.html">Tutorial, part 5 - Waist Straps</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2047910053052640055.post-11749338294171601212015-11-16T19:33:00.003-08:002016-05-22T12:10:29.125-07:00Tutorial, part 3 - Right Chest Pocket and Pencil Pocket<div style="text-align: justify;">
We find it helpful to begin making the right chest pocket (piece J) by marking the upper and centermost hem allowances and fold lines. We recommend either doing this with tailor's chalk (testing on a scrap first to be sure it steams away, of course!) or with basting thread.<br />
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Next, install the right chest pocket zipper as per <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-2-zipper-installation.html" target="_blank">our zipper installation tutorial</a></b>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI0ni20PKhAs27yZfmToamcxDL6XZVMQW3a8VyZ57RNYLJMaCqen8Zt7zbdrP2cooRMoVew9XXc5e3DnnNCc-7n14J5DVlhk1Nqi0hHE6R8uUl6f_OJx1Kt9lZGRy9APgmv61-dMLn4lc/s1600/2-zipper+isntalled.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI0ni20PKhAs27yZfmToamcxDL6XZVMQW3a8VyZ57RNYLJMaCqen8Zt7zbdrP2cooRMoVew9XXc5e3DnnNCc-7n14J5DVlhk1Nqi0hHE6R8uUl6f_OJx1Kt9lZGRy9APgmv61-dMLn4lc/s400/2-zipper+isntalled.JPG" width="360" /></a></div>
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TIP: As we noted in <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/09/analysis-part-9c-right-chest-pocket.html" target="_blank">our ENT jumpsuit analysis</a></b>, the precise <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/09/analysis-part-9c-right-chest-pocket.html" target="_blank">placement</a></b> and <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/09/analysis-part-9d-right-chest-pocket.html" target="_blank">length</a></b> of the zipper varied considerably, but <b><a href="http://badwolfcostumes.com/star-trek-enterprise-mens-jumpsuit-sewing-pattern/" target="_blank">on our ENT jumpsuit pattern</a></b>, the upper edge of the zipper is positioned 1" beneath the top edge of the pocket (1 ⅝" beneath the upper raw edge) and ½" from the centermost edge (2 ⅝" from the centermost raw edge).</div>
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Press the pocket's upper, centermost, lower, and side hem allowances under. </div>
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Note that the armscye edge of the pocket has no hem allowance! It will get sewn into the sleeve.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN1tzgeRr1oY8Fij0ZfDIqmBl0xry1FW4IS5g272l7ybdQr1j9AFy1Lg-N4T6Iu9ywvekb8HqJyHy1CVZ8pnX9N7kzWkN08c3KY1YA70FtjmZvx1yUEtLZnNXEcSRYIfNS3fy_C89Q9-Q/s1600/3-hems+pressed+under.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN1tzgeRr1oY8Fij0ZfDIqmBl0xry1FW4IS5g272l7ybdQr1j9AFy1Lg-N4T6Iu9ywvekb8HqJyHy1CVZ8pnX9N7kzWkN08c3KY1YA70FtjmZvx1yUEtLZnNXEcSRYIfNS3fy_C89Q9-Q/s400/3-hems+pressed+under.JPG" width="350" /></a></div>
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TIP: We recommend pressing the upper and lower hem allowances under first, then the centermost and sides. </div>
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TIP: At the top, clip the outer edges of the hem allowance to help it conform to the slight upward curve.</div>
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Next, press the centermost "expanding pocket" pleat by folding along the lines indicated on the printed pattern.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSjgokKe3Hiqar65DTuXUyyt9fSc0p5aGv6hLexNycUUfmMy9BptfMecd4B4ynSEN1FlJpRCaDCdMP2ZeLTwwEHRGobwZDF3FTu9DnZlg1lBHlft6Dwl-vzqZQpLgNRn_3ikOZiiSo7O4/s1600/4-pleat+pressed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSjgokKe3Hiqar65DTuXUyyt9fSc0p5aGv6hLexNycUUfmMy9BptfMecd4B4ynSEN1FlJpRCaDCdMP2ZeLTwwEHRGobwZDF3FTu9DnZlg1lBHlft6Dwl-vzqZQpLgNRn_3ikOZiiSo7O4/s400/4-pleat+pressed.JPG" width="296" /></a></div>
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Keeping the centermost edge of the pocket folded, unfold the pleat underneath so there are only two layers of fabric (rather than four) at the center and edge stitch them together. </div>
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We also recommend marking the pencil pocket's upper placement.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN1Sg_d_JjlOMbBZ56qtc_RxYlpX9ygJCDNFaXpMBO2oU3TLiXo1r1mJbivIn_FXAp1jzDIefFhJvMakiPwCL47Bvih5OJV0tmXeV6bE41IYkQKQUGTkMFI_wx-_NgP4CWN0k02bH-jZM/s1600/5-edge+stitched+and+pencil+pocket+marked.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN1Sg_d_JjlOMbBZ56qtc_RxYlpX9ygJCDNFaXpMBO2oU3TLiXo1r1mJbivIn_FXAp1jzDIefFhJvMakiPwCL47Bvih5OJV0tmXeV6bE41IYkQKQUGTkMFI_wx-_NgP4CWN0k02bH-jZM/s320/5-edge+stitched+and+pencil+pocket+marked.JPG" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWuWVq2tMsGndSWX9RaezhfV0SsWR-IUVigjlK9Lyr6ijD5gZ9I5jLGPT_lu9cgj3f9YKO3cM1iD0WDvx5QpecbiW7TuPHhJHZn2MK-YCen9G73aqtGplwd2QWWgkyK6TMXfkoiMqkO3o/s1600/6-edge+stitched.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWuWVq2tMsGndSWX9RaezhfV0SsWR-IUVigjlK9Lyr6ijD5gZ9I5jLGPT_lu9cgj3f9YKO3cM1iD0WDvx5QpecbiW7TuPHhJHZn2MK-YCen9G73aqtGplwd2QWWgkyK6TMXfkoiMqkO3o/s320/6-edge+stitched.JPG" /></a></div>
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TIP: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/09/analysis-part-10c-pencil-pocket.html" target="_blank">As we noted in our ENT jumpsuit analysis, the precise placement of the pencil pocket varie</a></b>d, but on <b><a href="http://badwolfcostumes.com/star-trek-enterprise-mens-jumpsuit-sewing-pattern/" target="_blank">our ENT jumpsuit pattern</a></b>, the upper edge of the pencil pocket is 1" beneath the bottom of the right chest pocket zipper.</div>
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Shifting gears, it's time to make the pencil pocket (piece K)! </div>
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We've included multiple pencil pocket options with <b><a href="http://badwolfcostumes.com/star-trek-enterprise-mens-jumpsuit-sewing-pattern/" target="_blank">our ENT jumpsuit pattern</a></b>! </div>
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<b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/09/analysis-part-10b-pencil-pocket.html" target="_blank">As you may recall from our ENT jumpsuit analysis, sometimes the pencil pockets had 11 rows (columns?) of vertical topstitching, and other times they only had 8, seeming to indicate a difference in pocket width</a></b>. </div>
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<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaXJZ1jy4etLIcHHRUwnvhoqbtDuVywU1AnwsH0uNvgj3J1MvPplWTFKn9CZUXZLu8kPQ0pVcR6VOnSmXd2Myywg44RGpHK9_L9Do7dRx8edeFYl1GA4CtePbbrn-ADYws5Ut1WM2_SP0/s1600/ENT+-+Tripp+3d+%2528distressed%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaXJZ1jy4etLIcHHRUwnvhoqbtDuVywU1AnwsH0uNvgj3J1MvPplWTFKn9CZUXZLu8kPQ0pVcR6VOnSmXd2Myywg44RGpHK9_L9Do7dRx8edeFYl1GA4CtePbbrn-ADYws5Ut1WM2_SP0/s320/ENT+-+Tripp+3d+%2528distressed%2529.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trip ENT jumpsuit auction photo</td></tr>
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</td>
<td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ZJXjQSAhKhyyH9flF0psyxZBjjofwy67gDo3rL_uoY9A1lWcGKXK0cHZQYHh9Cwl-EbN5O46_cNVsM_sab53zajptHuDCGKtqXUBgvbyk-9N1-W_wyo9aqtXInBAMq4JFX0Y_hjuwYE/s1600/ENT+-+Archer+4e+%2528distressed%252C+season+3%252C+Twilight%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ZJXjQSAhKhyyH9flF0psyxZBjjofwy67gDo3rL_uoY9A1lWcGKXK0cHZQYHh9Cwl-EbN5O46_cNVsM_sab53zajptHuDCGKtqXUBgvbyk-9N1-W_wyo9aqtXInBAMq4JFX0Y_hjuwYE/s320/ENT+-+Archer+4e+%2528distressed%252C+season+3%252C+Twilight%2529.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Archer ENT jumpsuit auction photo</td></tr>
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We've therefore included both the wider and narrower versions of the pencil pocket, so you can make whichever version you prefer. </div>
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Option 1 is the wider version (as seen on Trip's ENT jumpsuit above), and option 2 is the narrower version (as seen on Archer's ENT jumpsuit above).</div>
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As you may also recall, <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/09/analysis-part-10c-pencil-pocket.html" target="_blank">the pencil pocket varied considerably in height</a></b>, sometimes extending down to about 1" above the bottom of the right chest pocket and sometimes extending to as little as 4" above the chest pocket bottom. </div>
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We've therefore included four pencil pocket height options with our pattern: </div>
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* "Short" is similar to Archer's late ENT jumpsuit and extends to 4" above the chest pocket bottom</div>
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* "Medium" is similar to Trip's ENT jumpsuit and extends to 3" above the chest pocket bottom</div>
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* "Long" is similar to Hoshi's ENT jumpsuits and extends to 2" above the chest pocket bottom</div>
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* "Extra long" is similar to Reed's and Travis' ENT jumpsuits and extends to 1" above the chest pocket bottom</div>
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For this tutorial, we will be constructing the "short," wider version of the pencil pocket (option 1). </div>
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We actually prefer how the "long" and "medium" versions of the pocket look, but the "short" version of the pocket is actually useful for holding things such as pencils and pens. </div>
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This is purely a matter of personal preference, so feel free to construct whichever version and height you like! That's why we included them for you!</div>
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Begin by marking the pencil pocket's hem allowances.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEMR98KKD6h32SHaOu-Td5jEw-ea2jnSsp1Qx0uJvNjK1AOACH4TjEKlfMvV5XdBCxNP9LzaAmXcYOaOmWsvuilBC8rwZe579lweHIGqPmkhTT5A7zDn2P9caCwPMxbfbiCKs-7RZjKZw/s1600/7a-pencil+pocket+hems+marked.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEMR98KKD6h32SHaOu-Td5jEw-ea2jnSsp1Qx0uJvNjK1AOACH4TjEKlfMvV5XdBCxNP9LzaAmXcYOaOmWsvuilBC8rwZe579lweHIGqPmkhTT5A7zDn2P9caCwPMxbfbiCKs-7RZjKZw/s400/7a-pencil+pocket+hems+marked.JPG" width="303" /></a></div>
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Next, mark the two vertical rows of topstitching which fasten it to the right chest pocket. </div>
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On the wider version of the pocket (option 1), these will be 1" apart between the pocket edges. </div>
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On the narrower version of the pocket (option 2), these will be ¾" apart between the pocket edges.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2_9o9LInVF5tK296HPuz1YFDEfRcB40FfyPTwiOrUBQWiAyMfVenxd577BZ9tqnT7Rl4MpI3rZKZrxmzjyHorp6alZNGK2hMUfMBP6IJqF66-KmGAlLegv8JKqt6ZzCm7B6DOm7WAZyY/s1600/7b-pencil+pocket+fastening+rows+marked.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2_9o9LInVF5tK296HPuz1YFDEfRcB40FfyPTwiOrUBQWiAyMfVenxd577BZ9tqnT7Rl4MpI3rZKZrxmzjyHorp6alZNGK2hMUfMBP6IJqF66-KmGAlLegv8JKqt6ZzCm7B6DOm7WAZyY/s400/7b-pencil+pocket+fastening+rows+marked.JPG" width="303" /></a></div>
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Beginning ¼" inside the centermost or side pocket edges, vertically topstitch the pencil pocket in ¼" increments between the fastening rows, but not over the marked fastening rows themselves! </div>
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On the wider version of the pocket (option 1, pictured to the right), there will be 3 rows of topstitching between each marked line. </div>
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On the narrower version of the pocket (option 2), there will only be 2 rows of topstitching between each marked line.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhArTSfDQPHt6HK62bCcJZRy8_fE48Qhfw7pRMBJo83QcN10uVkD8WoT0j4X_NCkmduJktpND1sbyqFxJi7SUnvZMG5I6eqWPpu_bOnzcUufvh4etaTOf1LUVrWPNb_vx-ZNuwNDm7VVCo/s1600/7c-pencil+pocket+topstitched.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhArTSfDQPHt6HK62bCcJZRy8_fE48Qhfw7pRMBJo83QcN10uVkD8WoT0j4X_NCkmduJktpND1sbyqFxJi7SUnvZMG5I6eqWPpu_bOnzcUufvh4etaTOf1LUVrWPNb_vx-ZNuwNDm7VVCo/s400/7c-pencil+pocket+topstitched.JPG" width="306" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pardon the warbly topstitching on the right - whoops! </td></tr>
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Press the pencil pocket's top hem allowance under and topstitch the hem into place from the wrong side ½" from the upper edge.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWGNz8nZkA-vC6jS1tgkrjaBqh4n4aM_AUUh8pQ_i_nQMHD9BhxYDlgXSWnYaRsvnc9UARc8QAqWPvdjKEqxJUPAuVw5YEcFqTUaSqzMIUGXLEn_ZLrfKcuQBNnSgr6SEQ3eMAG5S5jMg/s1600/7d-pencil+pocket+top+hemmed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWGNz8nZkA-vC6jS1tgkrjaBqh4n4aM_AUUh8pQ_i_nQMHD9BhxYDlgXSWnYaRsvnc9UARc8QAqWPvdjKEqxJUPAuVw5YEcFqTUaSqzMIUGXLEn_ZLrfKcuQBNnSgr6SEQ3eMAG5S5jMg/s400/7d-pencil+pocket+top+hemmed.JPG" width="340" /></a></div>
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Press the hem allowances of the other three pencil pocket edges under.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCvz4H1YuWMT64XnjR2j9xaxuME9O5U0bf-2sR7Zgn0SZLa-LwMURQ9bVdJq_ZB5t6_gxKr2HtTOMFvd1gvfN-V8n9wSXawx1T53s4ilxSmECvsViTIThpJv9AHMgtchO0GFW5iAh4Gv4/s1600/7e-pencil+pocket+hems+pressed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCvz4H1YuWMT64XnjR2j9xaxuME9O5U0bf-2sR7Zgn0SZLa-LwMURQ9bVdJq_ZB5t6_gxKr2HtTOMFvd1gvfN-V8n9wSXawx1T53s4ilxSmECvsViTIThpJv9AHMgtchO0GFW5iAh4Gv4/s400/7e-pencil+pocket+hems+pressed.JPG" width="288" /></a></div>
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Position the pencil pocket on top of the right chest pocket so that the centermost edges are flush.</div>
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Keeping the centermost edge of the pocket folded, unfold the pleat underneath so there are only two layers of fabric (rather than four) at the center and edge stitch the pencil pocket to the right chest pocket along the centermost edge (over the previous stitching line).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyMXXNns4we0gV2IUOWY8RyD2qCR2v7_S9sifIJbZB388dBWiZs8qiyNtdvve174yc_HBYzc1KkhzPuFHC7JYnKPyfifYuxWnO-gCrvYygrxSFm7RXF-agNWYCXKL2TQfS7vgQKtJJFkk/s1600/8a-pencil+pocket+edge+stitched+at+center.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyMXXNns4we0gV2IUOWY8RyD2qCR2v7_S9sifIJbZB388dBWiZs8qiyNtdvve174yc_HBYzc1KkhzPuFHC7JYnKPyfifYuxWnO-gCrvYygrxSFm7RXF-agNWYCXKL2TQfS7vgQKtJJFkk/s320/8a-pencil+pocket+edge+stitched+at+center.JPG" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_dJLJo_2cBW7jTZWgBHq0OWXCIm7EGEG-yne7lSDNU5WS7D4KkTN8OcNb7iN0N9Y7lDiLvMSyLr69qDfEaG96_XLUdEe-PW0L_8wQigtcQNuo5ESosKP6Gw8AavqOcbjOi9YtshG6_Oo/s1600/8b-pencil+pocket+edge+stitched+at+center.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_dJLJo_2cBW7jTZWgBHq0OWXCIm7EGEG-yne7lSDNU5WS7D4KkTN8OcNb7iN0N9Y7lDiLvMSyLr69qDfEaG96_XLUdEe-PW0L_8wQigtcQNuo5ESosKP6Gw8AavqOcbjOi9YtshG6_Oo/s320/8b-pencil+pocket+edge+stitched+at+center.JPG" /></a></div>
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Now pull the pleated fabric toward center so it's out of the way and edge stitch the side and lower edges of the pencil pocket to the right chest pocket (being careful not to catch the chest pocket's pleated fabric). </div>
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Then topstitch the pencil pocket to the right chest pocket along the two vertical rows previously marked (1" from each edge for the wider version/option 1 and ¾" from each edge for the narrower version/option 2).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcmkku_urRDPpGF-BgAldoA9T_nfmbRiYm5cjeXqgaSVqjjOLUTIstCoFeWR1Dx8RGEICElgYXzOLIEspcyY8S4u86YsfHg055WqA61gXZSM1igGJ6ABxtl2Cbx2A9xgALc-3t3GRlwgs/s1600/9b-pencil+pocket+edge+stitched+and+fastened.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcmkku_urRDPpGF-BgAldoA9T_nfmbRiYm5cjeXqgaSVqjjOLUTIstCoFeWR1Dx8RGEICElgYXzOLIEspcyY8S4u86YsfHg055WqA61gXZSM1igGJ6ABxtl2Cbx2A9xgALc-3t3GRlwgs/s320/9b-pencil+pocket+edge+stitched+and+fastened.JPG" /></a></div>
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Your right chest pocket is now ready to be attached to the front of the jumpsuit!</div>
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Position the right chest pocket onto the front body (piece B) so that its upper edge is flush with the division stripe alignment guide, its center edge is flush with the front alignment guide, and its armscye edge is flush with the body's armscye edge.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBQflhdau4Bpi4Xrfxie4AcMXcbiuQty-js0OmUcW31K7W0DyhgS8jt_Uj4tCHsWemcpdFUczt7IY4tJKN4r2liu_I22ksYr9Uc9BFh-WaSCeM5676M6OgUEvmxgVGI5cSKkOFTUgS1mA/s1600/11-pocket+positioned.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBQflhdau4Bpi4Xrfxie4AcMXcbiuQty-js0OmUcW31K7W0DyhgS8jt_Uj4tCHsWemcpdFUczt7IY4tJKN4r2liu_I22ksYr9Uc9BFh-WaSCeM5676M6OgUEvmxgVGI5cSKkOFTUgS1mA/s400/11-pocket+positioned.JPG" width="278" /></a></div>
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Keeping the pleated fabric edge flush with the front alignment guide, carefully unfold the pocket by pulling it away from center. </div>
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Pin the pleated fabric into place (again, keeping the lower fold flush with the front alignment guide).</div>
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Edge stitch the lower folded edge of the pocket to the front body.</div>
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Fold the pocket back over to its proper position and pin into place around its perimeter.</div>
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TIP: Tailor-baste the pocket to the body to help secure the layers and prevent them from shifting and/or pulling while stitching. </div>
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TIP: Whip-stitch the centermost upper and lower corners of the pocket to the front body, with the upper fold <i>slightly</i> covering the lower (pleated) fold. This will help prevent any "peek-a-boo" from the lower (pleated) fold once finished.</div>
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<b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/09/analysis-part-9b-right-chest-pocket.html" target="_blank">As you may recall from our ENT jumpsuit analysis, the "expanding pocket edge stitching" varied in height</a></b>, so it's really just a matter of personal preference. </div>
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We like to edge stitch the uppermost and lowermost 2" of our expanding pockets. </div>
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Regardless of your decision, though, we recommend consistently employing it on all the expanding pockets!</div>
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Beginning 2" above the centermost lower corner (or however high you prefer to secure your pocket) and ending the same distance above the centermost upper corner, edge stitch the perimeter of the right chest pocket to the body, reinforcing the stitching along the center edges and corners.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk7fmKVxgpzA5YxgHiL5aXm1SSOGdwV9m1QbfHUqdncWtMr6DBBzg9UNZ9TTiMnyYEhiNrlHZTC0s0LFHaY3CtDW8Gcp1XMiG01mePkYM4xfmvxGxDuM-vs9gyUkav9hMS-XK4i8NTvR4/s1600/13b-pocket+edge+stitched%252C+armscye+basted.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk7fmKVxgpzA5YxgHiL5aXm1SSOGdwV9m1QbfHUqdncWtMr6DBBzg9UNZ9TTiMnyYEhiNrlHZTC0s0LFHaY3CtDW8Gcp1XMiG01mePkYM4xfmvxGxDuM-vs9gyUkav9hMS-XK4i8NTvR4/s400/13b-pocket+edge+stitched%252C+armscye+basted.JPG" width="280" /></a></div>
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TIP: Stay-stitch the armscye ½" from the edges, further securing the armscye edge of the pocket to the body!</div>
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Lastly, horizontally topstitch through all layers ¼" from the upper and lower edges of the pocket.</div>
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You may now pull out the basting stitches if you'd like, but we prefer to leave ours in to keep the pocket flat during construction (only pulling out the whip-stitches at the corners).</div>
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-2-zipper-installation.html">Tutorial, part 2 - Zipper Installation</a></b></div>
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-4-left-chest-pocket.html">Tutorial, part 4 - Left Chest Pocket</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2047910053052640055.post-83720621624215114122015-11-16T19:10:00.004-08:002016-05-22T12:10:21.000-07:00Tutorial, part 2 - Zipper Installation<div style="text-align: justify;">
Now that your pattern pieces are cut, serged, and marked, we'll cover the zipper installation process that applies to many of the zippers on the ENT jumpsuit. Rather than repeat ourselves unnecessary later on, we'll simply demonstrate it here and refer you back to this process as needed throughout the tutorial. </div>
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This zipper installation process applies to those on the chest pockets, thigh pockets, and right sleeve pocket. We'll cover the front zipper, sleeve zippers, leg zippers, and calf pockets separately. </div>
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Lastly, in addition to the "standard" zipper installation process, we'll be offering numerous optional tips to help you get the best results. You may use any, all, or none of them - whatever you feel is the right balance of ease, haste, budget, and results for you! </div>
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Begin by identifying the recommended zipper placement on the actual pattern piece.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDHya9lBtbI-z6Yfxt7E2l2lLT_-zKtyVFWd3F3lygoaleCvFdK8q1tPpIBVx-VxCnMXrFK_KBezEtXP_l9GtabHThOZFBiBmhAG28zd5CU-CgS_VGRtKwy82482n0qU-RXXDIfBJ0eKE/s1600/1-pattern.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDHya9lBtbI-z6Yfxt7E2l2lLT_-zKtyVFWd3F3lygoaleCvFdK8q1tPpIBVx-VxCnMXrFK_KBezEtXP_l9GtabHThOZFBiBmhAG28zd5CU-CgS_VGRtKwy82482n0qU-RXXDIfBJ0eKE/s400/1-pattern.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Our first optional tip is to stabilize and reinforce the general area of the zipper with a lightweight fusible interfacing. We recommend cutting it with pinking shears ("pinking" it), thus minimizing the effect of strong, linear imprints on the right side of the garment where the edges of the interfacing are, better obscuring them.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglQ-snwNw4HfY9CibpZWDeUcbmgRGqNsPqxCqfWSh6_zToDPPam-Sypq45D6hfHc7UVeFy2nZdyiosJFCfW1g39dVdNGQ09uU7cV6USBSZjcw3LM33DePqdjOtXs6D7sKkbTIX2eiO6fY/s1600/2-interfacing.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="373" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglQ-snwNw4HfY9CibpZWDeUcbmgRGqNsPqxCqfWSh6_zToDPPam-Sypq45D6hfHc7UVeFy2nZdyiosJFCfW1g39dVdNGQ09uU7cV6USBSZjcw3LM33DePqdjOtXs6D7sKkbTIX2eiO6fY/s400/2-interfacing.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Next, mark the specific zipper placement. We recommend using tailor's chalk if you didn't use interfacing, or a disappearing ink fabric marker if you did choose to interface the general zipper area.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3E5BjdqLt9qyRxy8QHklkQPV57PaZOremlPe_RoeMBY5EzKRPSR0j_ldXqUg4jdbmsCG5hHFZxtz6fNW0BAY83zORBM-yfunsLtigQFmauNHBuKL7jXMw-N_LF2rSxRNPw3epCYfUij8/s1600/3-zipper+placement+marked.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="376" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3E5BjdqLt9qyRxy8QHklkQPV57PaZOremlPe_RoeMBY5EzKRPSR0j_ldXqUg4jdbmsCG5hHFZxtz6fNW0BAY83zORBM-yfunsLtigQFmauNHBuKL7jXMw-N_LF2rSxRNPw3epCYfUij8/s400/3-zipper+placement+marked.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Our next optional zipper installation tip is to stitch around the corners (say, ½" from each end) using a short stitch to help prevent fabric threads unraveling at the corners.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNoyraoEikgp9ZIEc3Jvq73Ba3dD_KdYufpfzR-wYS_1aLY_pHAmTwUysc-t6-GXn3VZqaRIiD-Hqu3LU3Xtoib1IorVvcKCdrZa2KVDXE4POcEjqqDdj5H9NKTvYP4jFwI7SlbZK4aDg/s1600/3-zipper+placement+marked+example.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="376" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNoyraoEikgp9ZIEc3Jvq73Ba3dD_KdYufpfzR-wYS_1aLY_pHAmTwUysc-t6-GXn3VZqaRIiD-Hqu3LU3Xtoib1IorVvcKCdrZa2KVDXE4POcEjqqDdj5H9NKTvYP4jFwI7SlbZK4aDg/s400/3-zipper+placement+marked+example.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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If you stitch around the corners, just make sure that the stitching is hidden on the right side of the pocket once the edges and turned under and pressed. </div>
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<span style="text-align: justify;">Our third optional tip is to apply a ½" double-sided fabric tape or hem tape to the zipper opening (between the marked edges).</span></div>
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If you choose to use the double-sided tape, definitely follow the manufacturer's directions!</div>
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That said, with the particular kind we often use (pictured above), the tape is on a roll and applied sticky side down, with the paper backing facing upward.</div>
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After firmly pressing to ensure adhesion, carefully pull off the paper backing.</div>
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<i>NOTE: While the ½" double-sided tape does help keep the cut edges in place while attaching the zipper, it is accompanied by the caveat that it may "gunk up" your sewing machine's needle and/or fabric scissors by leaving glue or other adhesive residue! We don't usually use it on our zippers for this reason, but it can be helpful if you're having difficulty installing the zippers well. Just remember to regularly clean or change your sewing machine's needle and/or fabric scissors as needed.</i></div>
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Slash the zipper opening halfway between the two lines, cutting diagonally to the corners about ½" from each end of the opening (forming little triangles).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitbAVOdSloLkvi5ZrnUaeloptvrrCV32CWR-fdPBWZYwVcGZyT1ohXGPx12MokW8Dhq1FGvDW9UVk5yEMTSMgVArT6Mwdkt1fJ92Tch_NBUUammebrr1zJU1xGGXIWMGel_bnvfWpcJe8/s1600/5-opening+cut.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="376" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitbAVOdSloLkvi5ZrnUaeloptvrrCV32CWR-fdPBWZYwVcGZyT1ohXGPx12MokW8Dhq1FGvDW9UVk5yEMTSMgVArT6Mwdkt1fJ92Tch_NBUUammebrr1zJU1xGGXIWMGel_bnvfWpcJe8/s400/5-opening+cut.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Fold the cut edges to the underside and firmly press.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCaWg1uIFtBaM-Gh0D2NZ_HQABRuls40R6X-IqUVG1WNTkUQlhJDILO5RDtikTo9dqoc6MxgD6hNYVawyyvA6DZ5k_SqiBvixO1iKjGLSCc9SZeEBQU7aaIQMNUKakOgwdj6b1789yrHo/s1600/6a-opened.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="381" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCaWg1uIFtBaM-Gh0D2NZ_HQABRuls40R6X-IqUVG1WNTkUQlhJDILO5RDtikTo9dqoc6MxgD6hNYVawyyvA6DZ5k_SqiBvixO1iKjGLSCc9SZeEBQU7aaIQMNUKakOgwdj6b1789yrHo/s400/6a-opened.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>NOTE: If you chose to use some ½" double-sided tape, the edges will probably sit nicely with only light pressing.</i></div>
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Your zipper opening should be exactly ½" wide.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLtgbfvUZJCxLRLXNkf_VpKUUdW3z9yZD3cQk7RWCWyNpFymvnfDusB9QHqKK8gZQFyyW-koXaLmjU0zhUeXq6mMej3FlgdWWoCTXTEYiRCfDLZ5r1NLW_PsNtnhih_jIKK_TTfrdzoJU/s1600/6b-opened.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLtgbfvUZJCxLRLXNkf_VpKUUdW3z9yZD3cQk7RWCWyNpFymvnfDusB9QHqKK8gZQFyyW-koXaLmjU0zhUeXq6mMej3FlgdWWoCTXTEYiRCfDLZ5r1NLW_PsNtnhih_jIKK_TTfrdzoJU/s400/6b-opened.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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It's best to start with a zipper quite a bit longer than the actual pocket zipper, cutting it down to size later.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYHejIwadPdW_YOn5IRlvMzufaAwkRfoqvDo3cR0EBsgGqKu3W6gEiIaXjZdRLJNgpoVpEmFgjQX9ZC6PVWtkqxCWAYrBFS7NOujMLFGhkaw3cc8eBRIjBcsOydJWV9654A3ZmkFulOcI/s1600/7a-zipper.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYHejIwadPdW_YOn5IRlvMzufaAwkRfoqvDo3cR0EBsgGqKu3W6gEiIaXjZdRLJNgpoVpEmFgjQX9ZC6PVWtkqxCWAYrBFS7NOujMLFGhkaw3cc8eBRIjBcsOydJWV9654A3ZmkFulOcI/s400/7a-zipper.JPG" width="342" /></a></div>
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We generally recommend cutting the zipper about 1" longer/taller than the zipper opening, leaving about ½" on each end. You can cut it slightly longer on some openings, though.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGVDNCxQM8XOYM87r0axlRWdJ8Xrr8Dezh37-bLaOnTOBYCDvEOxvCwch_MG4Qi0v6AUfyztzya3AjcMIl2hEL7yGwnAwZkMQ6rApChP9PheooDovBSa67Wy4NecWcqldVJaXV8asu41U/s1600/7b-zipper+cut.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGVDNCxQM8XOYM87r0axlRWdJ8Xrr8Dezh37-bLaOnTOBYCDvEOxvCwch_MG4Qi0v6AUfyztzya3AjcMIl2hEL7yGwnAwZkMQ6rApChP9PheooDovBSa67Wy4NecWcqldVJaXV8asu41U/s400/7b-zipper+cut.JPG" width="313" /></a></div>
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The edge stitching (which we'll demonstrate shortly) will prevent the zipper pull from coming off once the zipper is installed onto the pocket, but be careful not to slide it too high or low until then!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB-9WRYzpiG3JtBecmIKHXIVaqMPTQMkV5Pc1Jmkd7FntdoopGy8fP1nXAu_Jxcwi_rCMK8y84P3RsuSV7E7zomaZR3JG1L7Z5tvJ8jNj6vDdrEqkJwaqXkF4I_v49EHiVIJ-2WG1ULPg/s1600/7c-bar+tack.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB-9WRYzpiG3JtBecmIKHXIVaqMPTQMkV5Pc1Jmkd7FntdoopGy8fP1nXAu_Jxcwi_rCMK8y84P3RsuSV7E7zomaZR3JG1L7Z5tvJ8jNj6vDdrEqkJwaqXkF4I_v49EHiVIJ-2WG1ULPg/s320/7c-bar+tack.JPG" width="140" /></a></div>
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Our fourth optional tip is to close the extreme ends of the zipper with a bar tack, which is just a wide zig-zag stitch centered over the zipper teeth with the stitch length set to 0.</div>
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(We don't bother with the bar tacks since the edge stitching keeps the installed zippers closed, but it is a good way to keep your cut zippers safe in the mean time! It's also good as a backup in case your edge stitching comes undone for some reason later.)</div>
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Our fifth optional zipper installation tip involves the use of ¼" double-sided tape, similar to that mentioned previously for the securing the cut edges of the zipper opening. </div>
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This works great as a substitute for basting and will hold your zipper in place while you edge stitch it around the opening (which we'll demonstrate next). The multiple layers of denim make pinning difficult, and basting takes time; it can be incredibly frustrating to install your zipper only to see that it shifted during the stitching, and/or the fabric around it pulled one way or the other! </div>
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We really can't recommend this stuff enough.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZcnpuZSXuOD2gW09ml66C4ED4e_5DPmLlPEHE-xn_lZ1N3F39PGj3Gk-wfvTF139VtSAP6qHUW3zl_tYV74NnJwmzg0YZ2kb4rkG3uUBrhXou7Hivn0ZnEL84QokLmfNl_qrdqWxbGDU/s1600/Wonder+Tape.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZcnpuZSXuOD2gW09ml66C4ED4e_5DPmLlPEHE-xn_lZ1N3F39PGj3Gk-wfvTF139VtSAP6qHUW3zl_tYV74NnJwmzg0YZ2kb4rkG3uUBrhXou7Hivn0ZnEL84QokLmfNl_qrdqWxbGDU/s400/Wonder+Tape.jpg" width="352" /></a></div>
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Again, if you choose to use some ¼" double-sided tape, follow the manufacturer's directions! </div>
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That said, this will typically involve unrolling the tape (sticky side down) onto the zipper tape and cutting to size. If your zipper is 1" wide, excellent! Position it flush with the outer edges, and you'll automatically have a ½" reference!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_KUkt_xTjgTD2rSq9AUB40B-05zGsTbext-vGROETaaVTbyn9zQrp5_o-oMrFM7cX7q8-IN-kLhym98DhFRKX2SP0LYj3b_mBQQKQIy-gKTWOK5IP29G6eb6SZaeqeRvnMk0HYvMGe4I/s1600/8a-Wonder+Tape.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="116" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_KUkt_xTjgTD2rSq9AUB40B-05zGsTbext-vGROETaaVTbyn9zQrp5_o-oMrFM7cX7q8-IN-kLhym98DhFRKX2SP0LYj3b_mBQQKQIy-gKTWOK5IP29G6eb6SZaeqeRvnMk0HYvMGe4I/s400/8a-Wonder+Tape.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Next, carefully peel off the paper backing.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2s0b3IIHeY_Xr7sntMAS_xRff_z44pGYmer7Gpr-eNFSYR7yYT6_iMo5s0t4mgEnvsh8Ojl4i9IVy_hSgT3YwHvZSUBO66VbxpO6JaWqsgkyShQgjMWkcPUQXcyey2p4W5XfnAPLo7IQ/s1600/8b-Wonder+Tape.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2s0b3IIHeY_Xr7sntMAS_xRff_z44pGYmer7Gpr-eNFSYR7yYT6_iMo5s0t4mgEnvsh8Ojl4i9IVy_hSgT3YwHvZSUBO66VbxpO6JaWqsgkyShQgjMWkcPUQXcyey2p4W5XfnAPLo7IQ/s400/8b-Wonder+Tape.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Carefully position your zipper over the zipper opening, centered and with the zipper ends overhanging the hole. </div>
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If you're using the ¼" double-sided tape (again, which we highly recommend!) and a 1" zipper, this will serve as a natural alignment guide, as the tape itself should not be visible from the right side of the pocket. </div>
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You want it to look like this:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLqLkUMaHjalomqpzvmrE8mcHFcXfMOgxhoLO6vk8bWUxoSmlVHVJIvo4eC33TdJYjR4jwxMYPFtR_YhSvz4Era6yje-VTayJQo1mcvwExF88gpJuBXAzVuXHziSy7MxMswAlJpbrFqzA/s1600/8d-good.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLqLkUMaHjalomqpzvmrE8mcHFcXfMOgxhoLO6vk8bWUxoSmlVHVJIvo4eC33TdJYjR4jwxMYPFtR_YhSvz4Era6yje-VTayJQo1mcvwExF88gpJuBXAzVuXHziSy7MxMswAlJpbrFqzA/s400/8d-good.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Not like this:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPSEy9iyxrOifLM9FGE7QxsgVaciwNMAoIcFyDFUnDWlA96VrPAsuxAoxaPjAWOT_YCgDyj9BZxdZ1dKGMw5LnpeWQama4HQJgV08R2eLKN3AjmH_kIvRoxKFFmNaxAX_Ye84ir_BdV4s/s1600/8c-bad.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="377" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPSEy9iyxrOifLM9FGE7QxsgVaciwNMAoIcFyDFUnDWlA96VrPAsuxAoxaPjAWOT_YCgDyj9BZxdZ1dKGMw5LnpeWQama4HQJgV08R2eLKN3AjmH_kIvRoxKFFmNaxAX_Ye84ir_BdV4s/s400/8c-bad.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Using your zipper/piping foot, edge stitch around the perimeter of the zipper opening, securing the zipper tape and the clipped allowances. Reinforce the stitching at the corners, and several times over the ends of the zipper.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4wX-MpvWXaDs7vsalSK_t5nUJYsjoi0xcynz4kDFjR-URlgKBuBuBhF-DM6TxUkI2T4xFND6hLpPkKr38u6FQbskE7_OZmeHQTMF_sAcg8CuVGYFG6CJFV1W_QSyIfZ-FmJbaJrzcGm0/s1600/9a-edge+stitching.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4wX-MpvWXaDs7vsalSK_t5nUJYsjoi0xcynz4kDFjR-URlgKBuBuBhF-DM6TxUkI2T4xFND6hLpPkKr38u6FQbskE7_OZmeHQTMF_sAcg8CuVGYFG6CJFV1W_QSyIfZ-FmJbaJrzcGm0/s400/9a-edge+stitching.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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And finally, our last optional zipper installation tip is to apply some liquid fray preventer to the corners of the zipper opening to help prevent any of the clipped fabric threads from unraveling. </div>
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(As always, though, test on a scrap first to make sure that it dries clearly and inconspicuously!)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgavinVMS39JA6TEUT0DtbxiUg2n73811opFgvLtgKs6Y5HJC0k6stIxCAuJLX55yd2L1matYdn9LQPR7SDS4bBWL6YtiqVBts6EB9ieME7iScnrtPdVIW8rIUY4D6rVbjscLqAeznxF44/s1600/Fray+Check.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgavinVMS39JA6TEUT0DtbxiUg2n73811opFgvLtgKs6Y5HJC0k6stIxCAuJLX55yd2L1matYdn9LQPR7SDS4bBWL6YtiqVBts6EB9ieME7iScnrtPdVIW8rIUY4D6rVbjscLqAeznxF44/s400/Fray+Check.jpg" width="193" /></a></div>
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Your finished pocket zipper should look like this:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9QO_gRpijWGedYjT3mAZ0vcoaWALv5P5UuSEgV5JiixpA3bua-NQIzc3rF_B6DUo0Dx_J1dHKFPBTan4YL9EhiGO60YtF5Fpgfw3OI4b1k5QBRCZ6IP0CzoyESSeDRD5CHfZ7U21aDUI/s1600/9b-edge+stitched.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="372" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9QO_gRpijWGedYjT3mAZ0vcoaWALv5P5UuSEgV5JiixpA3bua-NQIzc3rF_B6DUo0Dx_J1dHKFPBTan4YL9EhiGO60YtF5Fpgfw3OI4b1k5QBRCZ6IP0CzoyESSeDRD5CHfZ7U21aDUI/s400/9b-edge+stitched.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Our preferred "aids" are pinked lightweight fusible interfacing, reinforcing the corners, ¼" double-sided tape on the zipper itself, and applying liquid fray preventer to the corners after installation. </div>
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However, what works best for us might not be what works best for you, so if you're not sure, just install a few zippers for practice using the different optional tips we mentioned to find what gives you the best results!</div>
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-1-pattern-pieces.html">Tutorial, part 1 - Pattern Pieces</a></b></div>
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-3-right-chest-pocket-and.html">Tutorial, part 3 - Right Chest Pocket and Pencil Pocket</a></b></div>
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Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2047910053052640055.post-56668030253152779282015-11-16T18:55:00.000-08:002016-05-22T12:10:16.584-07:00Tutorial, part 1 - Pattern Pieces<div style="text-align: justify;">
NOTE: This tutorial was originally specifically intended to accompany <b><a href="http://badwolfcostumes.com/star-trek-enterprise-mens-jumpsuit-sewing-pattern/" target="_blank">our Bad Wolf Costumes ENT jumpsuit sewing pattern</a></b>, but you may, of course, adapt it to other existing patterns or even use it as a basis for drafting your own if you wish. </div>
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On <b><a href="http://badwolfcostumes.com/star-trek-enterprise-mens-jumpsuit-sewing-pattern/" target="_blank">our ENT jumpsuit pattern</a></b>, unless otherwise noted, all pattern pieces have a ⅝" seam allowance! The exceptions to this are the sleeve and leg hems, which are 2 ⅝", and the waist straps, which we'll cover later in the tutorial. </div>
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<i>NOTE: As you may recall from <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/09/analysis-part-1-fabric.html" target="_blank">our ENT jumpsuit analysis</a></b>, these jumpsuits were made with the fabric "wrong side out" - that is, with the "wrong" side of the fabric being used for the exterior of the garment! </i></div>
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<i>The "right" side of denim typically possesses a strong diagonal weave, whereas the weave's effect is significantly more subdued (and different-looking) on the "wrong" side:</i></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAwHlKPm6rL0UcnNf1XtBliM8zjJU-Fa3bPI42N2BoEqYGafUXMkQ3Bi-Yc45VKWFjIsK3ubgXQP5XZX1gOUaIzVUHqx5HqzCfncuXmRMwxUzCtzCI0CCsJYB-AEHs7BVu3HOI_LgECi0/s1600/2a-wrong+side.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAwHlKPm6rL0UcnNf1XtBliM8zjJU-Fa3bPI42N2BoEqYGafUXMkQ3Bi-Yc45VKWFjIsK3ubgXQP5XZX1gOUaIzVUHqx5HqzCfncuXmRMwxUzCtzCI0CCsJYB-AEHs7BVu3HOI_LgECi0/s320/2a-wrong+side.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wrong side</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwxzUOPtVAMkV9bU68HrzvT5t8Y7aHsH72nw5SFfZmQwsw6S9ecRoH1sdyQ2vSShDgVbR0JjJvU4-c7BjG3Zdyjj-JfJ3zBQk5AKQofKyuC5JPoZAlApRzK3kr2WsAptjS5G8zvHy4Mm8/s1600/2b-right+side.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwxzUOPtVAMkV9bU68HrzvT5t8Y7aHsH72nw5SFfZmQwsw6S9ecRoH1sdyQ2vSShDgVbR0JjJvU4-c7BjG3Zdyjj-JfJ3zBQk5AKQofKyuC5JPoZAlApRzK3kr2WsAptjS5G8zvHy4Mm8/s320/2b-right+side.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Right side</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY2T4U2yQ4LBz3Fy8Xaad4AJbbBCHzHGDu0PVMviMlU3P6QlCemIBR_3EOCDwp0msCX_qVW-jjZBlEVo0NzjSsTk0Jijvs4S-EXvSRexDMym-hbeFCKXeEE-gftT2zfa58qq9IszJ4CT4/s1600/3-comparison.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="378" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY2T4U2yQ4LBz3Fy8Xaad4AJbbBCHzHGDu0PVMviMlU3P6QlCemIBR_3EOCDwp0msCX_qVW-jjZBlEVo0NzjSsTk0Jijvs4S-EXvSRexDMym-hbeFCKXeEE-gftT2zfa58qq9IszJ4CT4/s400/3-comparison.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Right side up</td></tr>
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<i>For the duration of this tutorial, we will be swapping the terms so that we'll be using them in context of this uniform, so when we say "wrong side" we mean the side with the strong diagonal weave (usually referred to as the "right side"), and when we say "right side" we mean what's usually the underside of the fabric. </i></div>
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<i>In other words, just flip the fabric over and use the opposite side, following the directions and doing everything else just as you normally would.</i></div>
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First, cut out all the pieces as indicated on the printed pattern. </div>
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TIP: If you're using cotton twill for your division stripes (which we recommend), for the best results, cut them on the bias! This will help them better conform to the gentle curve of the stripes' shape (especially the lower edges). </div>
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Then serge every edge of every piece except the division stripes (piece I).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivhE0KseWTrOQ5R10L0LSfOo4a3S3zjj-xrBMLPs_NRJ4Ll1YJ_P5Oe98_Lne4GdsMxqf1rAZv5mCiHZCLaWFhyphenhyphen1PHOcloa93TkC1jjlGLn_ROk3-BGwZBs7nTCRaVqYOYVk3o0Otb2LE/s1600/Sisko+you+heard+me+GIF.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivhE0KseWTrOQ5R10L0LSfOo4a3S3zjj-xrBMLPs_NRJ4Ll1YJ_P5Oe98_Lne4GdsMxqf1rAZv5mCiHZCLaWFhyphenhyphen1PHOcloa93TkC1jjlGLn_ROk3-BGwZBs7nTCRaVqYOYVk3o0Otb2LE/s320/Sisko+you+heard+me+GIF.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Yes, serging every edge of every piece is a lot of work, but it's necessary and well worth it!</div>
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(Technically, some edges don't need serging since they'll be entirely enclosed, such as those of the waist straps, sleeve cuffs, leg cuffs, collar, and collar facing, but we like to serge them anyway, both for consistency and so minimize in fraying/unraveling during the construction process.)</div>
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For your convenience, we have included several alignment guides on our sewing pattern - perhaps most notably the division stripe alignment guides. These are paper pieces for reference only and not intended to be cut from fabric.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj1EF2hXXCCyCN3Cx4Z2_XgMFvFY3zB9XKXmbWdREPLxOA6YA7StxtjvtppTjJo8i9hixfJsFCciNga7gW6ZZGtUAKRP6Lsina5PDuGNAmI9i7mQix8fXEzrgB9YCu_nlsDcS89dooteI/s1600/4a-alignment+guide.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj1EF2hXXCCyCN3Cx4Z2_XgMFvFY3zB9XKXmbWdREPLxOA6YA7StxtjvtppTjJo8i9hixfJsFCciNga7gW6ZZGtUAKRP6Lsina5PDuGNAmI9i7mQix8fXEzrgB9YCu_nlsDcS89dooteI/s400/4a-alignment+guide.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Align the three corners of the guide with the corresponding marks on the front and back body pieces.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSVZ0Jsf9tD_GQryphNSBVp6Lxw_oL70BgoueqsRR2z7vu_tuWXojIqO7nXLhz-p94hJXQh5tHm2e2LJezPjxRhGDXTlpRqLHnfxMBYg43KlyG3U7ff6RgfWw3yqdhULXkuNOcayeHWQ4/s1600/4b-alignment+guide.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="337" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSVZ0Jsf9tD_GQryphNSBVp6Lxw_oL70BgoueqsRR2z7vu_tuWXojIqO7nXLhz-p94hJXQh5tHm2e2LJezPjxRhGDXTlpRqLHnfxMBYg43KlyG3U7ff6RgfWw3yqdhULXkuNOcayeHWQ4/s400/4b-alignment+guide.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Along the lower and centermost edges, either lightly trace the edge of the guide with tailor's chalk (testing on a scrap first to be sure it steams away, of course!) or mark the edges with basting thread.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfDA9fblId8N_2WvJATdnHqOFOt-4AEY7mC1qtFJ2x_HAxjiAtPyY9YWz9F0vsuJh-BFk4bY3Pc6RKI9i9y7XqUerKUO5uBrNcJeYrgcbVj_pI6ZpBrJmBCD2Ehwt6yCkfo8TX10nT7Fo/s1600/4c-alignment+guide.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="333" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfDA9fblId8N_2WvJATdnHqOFOt-4AEY7mC1qtFJ2x_HAxjiAtPyY9YWz9F0vsuJh-BFk4bY3Pc6RKI9i9y7XqUerKUO5uBrNcJeYrgcbVj_pI6ZpBrJmBCD2Ehwt6yCkfo8TX10nT7Fo/s400/4c-alignment+guide.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifcwOfN0lrPS_YchlbGzZqnsIMb2PJvinMdt8HyYsHc42x7qOJxWUQkUibce57Qdp_GV8l2q2bWUo2cSjEv2-ogLgMPIH24I_hjCwy3Pgysui5MQJAZOhrsODozvfBGlYgvxVW0SHtsVo/s1600/4d-alignment+guide.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifcwOfN0lrPS_YchlbGzZqnsIMb2PJvinMdt8HyYsHc42x7qOJxWUQkUibce57Qdp_GV8l2q2bWUo2cSjEv2-ogLgMPIH24I_hjCwy3Pgysui5MQJAZOhrsODozvfBGlYgvxVW0SHtsVo/s400/4d-alignment+guide.JPG" width="241" /></a></div>
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Also mark the front alignment guide, which is on the actual front body pattern piece (piece B). </div>
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TIP: This line is 3 ⅝" away from the center edge, so if you wish you can simply use a see-through quilter's ruler to draw the line. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNEO9rpn9uw8bDb8CHzmHDPrrBboiym7oD3YmvEB-h6tR53raJdLeJBZu390z3GK-DHl79SvamTrJOq9qkE8tGEcn3Oc4Vx3ujMQk7j1glYeR2n-HecBF37wn_F5iPN4JXMPxLWiZ72xk/s1600/Quilters+ruler+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNEO9rpn9uw8bDb8CHzmHDPrrBboiym7oD3YmvEB-h6tR53raJdLeJBZu390z3GK-DHl79SvamTrJOq9qkE8tGEcn3Oc4Vx3ujMQk7j1glYeR2n-HecBF37wn_F5iPN4JXMPxLWiZ72xk/s320/Quilters+ruler+1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Lastly, stay-stitch the neckline ½" from the edge on the front body (piece B) and back body (piece C) pieces.</div>
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/required-materials-supplies-notions-etc.html">Required Materials, Supplies, Notions, etc.</a></b></div>
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-2-zipper-installation.html">Tutorial, part 2 - Zipper Installation</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2047910053052640055.post-8748210610294162712015-11-16T18:43:00.002-08:002016-05-22T12:10:12.079-07:00Required Materials, Supplies, Notions, etc.<b>FABRIC</b>:<br />
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* Blue denim = 6 yards<br />
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* Division-color cotton twill or cotton lycra = 1 yard<br />
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<i><i>If you're using cotton lycra, we recommend stabilizing the division stripes with some lightweight fusible interfacing, as seems to have been done on the originals.</i></i></div>
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<b>ACCESSORIES, NOTIONS, ETC.</b></div>
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* Zipper/piping foot for sewing machine</div>
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* 2 spools of blue thread</div>
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* 1 spool of division color thread</div>
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* 1 spool of light gray thread</div>
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* 13 black closed zippers (ideally metal, with black zipper teeth)</div>
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* 1 yard of 2" elastic</div>
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* ¼ yard black hook-and-loop tape</div>
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* 4 black ½" 4-hole buttons</div>
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* 1 pair of raglan shoulder pads</div>
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* 1 Starfleet assignment patch</div>
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* 1 set of rank pips or enlisted patch of your choice</div>
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<b>OPTIONAL, BUT RECOMMENDED:</b></div>
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* Lightweight fusible interfacing for pocket zippers = 1 yard </div>
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* ½" double-sided transparent fabric tape (preferably washable)</div>
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* ¼" double-sided fusible hem tape</div>
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* Liquid fray preventer</div>
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* Fabric spray adhesive</div>
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Also, a serger is HIGHLY recommended!</div>
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/11/tutorial-part-1-pattern-pieces.html">Tutorial, part 1 - Pattern Pieces</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2047910053052640055.post-48328117412338667622015-09-27T18:52:00.001-07:002016-05-22T12:09:41.676-07:00Construction Analysis OverviewWe'll start our analysis with a quick overview. <br />
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In a nutshell, the ENT jumpsuit was a basic 4-panel jumpsuit with a whole bunch of stuff sewn on top of it. <br />
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The major construction characteristics of the <i>Enterprise</i>-era Starfleet jumpsuits were: <br />
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* 4-panel (front/back) blue denim jumpsuit<br />
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* collar<br />
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* nested neckline with black undershirt<br />
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* division stripes on shoulders<br />
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* front closing via zipper<br />
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* right and left chest pockets (with additional "pencil pocket" on the right)<br />
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* side waist straps<br />
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* back elastic waistband<br />
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* right and left thigh pockets<br />
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* right and left calf pockets<br />
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* right sleeve pocket<br />
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* left sleeve assignment patch<br />
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* sleeve zipper/gusset <br />
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* sleeve cuff<br />
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* leg zipper/gusset<br />
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* "hero" zipper pulls<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw9z2yLfKOW7Gu_SGFUlBrb42XgwRLrruUD1fCOAKljLUAMeebY3tDfVUIs2m85lf9sGz2OuZPVDXZ0AswLhwGS-bSdWoXhxJV8yn4aaWivccA4xj5uW-Bc34u3nx0BBlUWhjhFmkW3aM/s1600/Overview+diagram+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw9z2yLfKOW7Gu_SGFUlBrb42XgwRLrruUD1fCOAKljLUAMeebY3tDfVUIs2m85lf9sGz2OuZPVDXZ0AswLhwGS-bSdWoXhxJV8yn4aaWivccA4xj5uW-Bc34u3nx0BBlUWhjhFmkW3aM/s400/Overview+diagram+1.jpg" width="312" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(publicity photo)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-UmIl21k0iBQ8h2JRzZ_b1nebAIbQdROqw3j_Q8lGsAP85kg_mbL8DmwN68wGZaMvL-KPJR1qkLd1t8CVhbBPtJORx_rR-o3Bg-L2vP0Fc5QaIPyHyXCV9-GFsMNfAM8jkG2v6HKEVrc/s1600/Overview+diagram+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-UmIl21k0iBQ8h2JRzZ_b1nebAIbQdROqw3j_Q8lGsAP85kg_mbL8DmwN68wGZaMvL-KPJR1qkLd1t8CVhbBPtJORx_rR-o3Bg-L2vP0Fc5QaIPyHyXCV9-GFsMNfAM8jkG2v6HKEVrc/s400/Overview+diagram+2.jpg" width="247" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ENT, 2x4 "Dead Stop"</td></tr>
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NEXT: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/09/stylistic-inspiration-and-influences.html">Stylistic Inspiration and Influences - Context</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2047910053052640055.post-64674500998441123402015-09-27T18:23:00.002-07:002016-05-22T12:09:00.333-07:00Final NotesCongratulations on finishing our unabridged analysis of the ENT jumpsuit! <br />
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We know, after that massive info-dump, you probably feel like this:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUQGwp0kuvPaDXcQ1FUv0iYVCT9idQT29xsUo2-pwCdsJsW7YvJw0it8h9VLjzL7zdr5F5eupLm7saD8S5BiCWfic09tO1by1dyzbk_DkMKSPH3JopoINp7bx-JX5gjq5QYUKvomrF2Sg/s1600/TNG+redshirt+mind+blown+GIF.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="315" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUQGwp0kuvPaDXcQ1FUv0iYVCT9idQT29xsUo2-pwCdsJsW7YvJw0it8h9VLjzL7zdr5F5eupLm7saD8S5BiCWfic09tO1by1dyzbk_DkMKSPH3JopoINp7bx-JX5gjq5QYUKvomrF2Sg/s400/TNG+redshirt+mind+blown+GIF.gif" width="400" /></a></div>
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But don't worry! We accounted for all the appropriate construction details in our ENT jumpsuit pattern (well, as well as we could, given the extensive variation in practically every aspect of the uniform), and our ENT jumpsuit tutorial is thorough enough for you to construct a fantastic replica of your own!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSDENQ65mkApXALHdFKgkEchSMAxaKeiE-dZdq6t3oEaszQYHHpUDImOdm1w8IkKVPDa-DPtoVvJIdFQLo_wZNFR11Z00eDfcAmlU4TnwIpKnOX257QgD7nS2xog8GGZnu8ysGN-fpTGM/s1600/ROTJ+taken+care+of+everything.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="170" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSDENQ65mkApXALHdFKgkEchSMAxaKeiE-dZdq6t3oEaszQYHHpUDImOdm1w8IkKVPDa-DPtoVvJIdFQLo_wZNFR11Z00eDfcAmlU4TnwIpKnOX257QgD7nS2xog8GGZnu8ysGN-fpTGM/s400/ROTJ+taken+care+of+everything.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"I've taken care of everything."</td></tr>
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PREVIOUS: <b><a href="http://entjumpsuit.blogspot.com/2015/09/misc-observations-and-errors-part-12.html">Misc. Observations and Errors, part 12</a></b></div>
Bad Wolf Costumeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06353549537260224925noreply@blogger.com0