September 26, 2015

Analysis, part 19 - Sleeve Structure

As mentioned previously, the ENT jumpsuit sleeves were unusual in their construction, similar to several TNG-era uniform designs - similar, but not identical.

TNG, 1x1 "Encounter at Farpoint"
TNG, 5x2 "Darmok"
TNG, 5x19 "The First Duty"
DS9, 5x13 "For the Uniform"


On those Starfleet uniform garments, the sleeve could be attached to the body, followed by the yoke (which was a separate piece). 

However, on the ENT jumpsuits, the "yoke" was not cut separately and attached after-the-fact (although the shoulder reinforcements above the division stripes were); the "yoke" was cut-on to the jumpsuit body, and the front and back sleeve pieces were wedge-shaped.

"Lynsioux" photo of screen-used ENT jumpsuit


Note that despite appearances (and what might arguably be an easier method of sleeve installation), the ENT jumpsuit sleeves were not standard set-in sleeves with the upper armscye covered by the shoulder reinforcement. 

ENT jumpsuit (male) auction photo
"Lynsioux" photo of screen-used ENT jumpsuit
"Lynsioux" photo of screen-used ENT jumpsuit
"Lynsioux" photo of screen-used ENT jumpsuit


Note that the armscye seam allowances were pressed toward the sleeve.


After the sporadic history of "spandex armpit gussets" on the transitional TNG jackets, VOY jumpsuits, DS9/NEM jumpsuits (and stunt jackets), and even the DS9/NEM formal jackets (!), we believe it worth pointing out that we never observed any "funny business" on any ENT jumpsuit armpits.

ENT, 1x11 "Cold Front"
ENT, 1x11 "Cold Front'
ENT, 1x22 "Vox Sola"
ENT, 1x23
"Fallen Hero"
ENT, 2x4
"Dead Stop"
ENT, 3x9
"North Star"
ENT, 3x18
"Azati Prime"
"Lynsioux" photo of screen-used ENT jumpsuit


Lastly, sometimes it looked to us as if there were a bit of ease in the sleeves around the entirety of the armscye (similarly to how, on garments with standard set-in sleeves, there's some excess fabric eased in at the shoulder cap); if so, this wouldn't be surprising, since the jumpsuit "hugged" the shoulders somewhat tightly but one would want some wearing ease in the sleeves and need to be able to move more easily. 

(Look at the upper sleeve area, directly beneath the division stripe, where there appears to be a slight amount of concentrated ease.)

ENT, 1x8 "Breaking the Ice"
ENT, 2x15 "Cease Fire"


(Of course, when you're as ripped as Travis, you'll probably need a little wearing ease built into your jumpsuit's sleeves ...)

ENT, 1x25 "Two Days Two Nights"
ENT, 2x4 "Dead Stop"



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