September 22, 2015

Analysis, part 2a - Collar, Shape

As for the construction of the ENT jumpsuit itself ...

"Let's just take it from the top." 


The first characteristic of the ENT jumpsuit construction we'll examine is the collar. 

As mentioned in our "Stylistic inspiration and influences" section, the ENT jumpsuit collar was slightly rounded in the upper front, perhaps reminiscent of the TNG-era uniforms' mandarin collars. 

However, the actual curvature of the front collar varied considerably amongst the cast throughout the show. 

Some of the collars were so barely rounded that they were almost entirely rectangular, some were slightly curved, and some were very curved. 

There didn't seem to be any particular rhyme or reason as to which collar shape was used; as best we could tell, it was generally just which was decided looked best on which actor.

Perhaps the least rounded collars we observed in our research were these:

ENT jumpsuit (male) auction photo
ENT jumpsuit
(female) auction photo
ENT jumpsuit
(female) auction photo
ENT jumpsuit
(male) auction photo


Amongst the main cast, Travis perhaps had the least curved collar, as evidenced by this photo of one of his screen-used uniforms, again shared by Gerald Gurian on the STPCAA: 

Note that when fully zipped, the front edges of the collar are flush almost the entire way up and only curve away at the very top.

STPCAA photo of Travis Mayweather screen-used ENT jumpsuit


ENT, 1x3 "Fight or Flight"
The STPCAA photo is consistent with Mayweather's collar as seen on the show.


ENT, 1x21 "Detained"
ENT, 2x10 "Vanishing Point"
ENT, 4x2 "Storm Front (part 2)"
ENT, 4x11 "Observer Effect"


Hoshi's collar was also more of a rounded point than sloped curve.

(publicity photo)
(publicity photo)


Hoshi's jumpsuit collars in the publicity photos are consistent with what we saw of her collars in the show:

ENT, 4x20 "Demons"
ENT, 4x21 "Terra Prime"


Reed's collar, like Travis' and Hoshi's, was also more angled than curved:

ENT, 1x3 "Fight or Flight" 
ENT, 4x15 "Affliction"
ENT, 1x17 "Shuttlepod One"
ENT, 4x21 "Terra Prime"


Unlike the collars previously shown, Archer's collar was consistently more curved at the upper front:

ENT, 1x3 "Fight or Flight"
ENT, 1x11 "Cold Front"
ENT, 2x8 "The Communicator"
ENT, 2x9 "Singularity"
ENT, 3x16 "Doctor's Orders"


We also discovered some "medium" curved collars amongst the auction listings we researched, including a Travis, Hoshi, and Reed uniform, leading us to believe either the collar shapes may have actually morphed a bit over the years on the same characters, or it's something of an optical illusion:

Archer ENT jumpsuit auction photo
Travis ENT jumpsuit auction photo
Hoshi ENT jumpsuit auction photo
Reed ENT jumpsuit auction photo
ENT jumpsuit (female) auction photo


By far, the most curved (and gradually curved!) collar we ever observed was Trip's:

ENT, 2x9 "Singularity"
ENT, 1x15 "Sleeping Dogs"
ENT, 1x20 "Oasis"
ENT, 1x26 "Shockwave (part 1)"
ENT, 4x2 "Storm Front (part 2)"


This collar shape seemed to be exclusive to Trip; we never saw it on anybody else ... but golly, was it curved!

(desktop theme)
(publicity photo)
Trip ENT jumpsuit auction photo
Trip ENT jumpsuit auction photo


NOTE: On our ENT jumpsuit pattern, the collar shape is the more rectangular, "rounded point" style first mentioned (a la Travis, Hoshi, and Reed); should you desire a more "medium curve" (a la Archer) or very curved look (a la Trip), it is easy to simply cut the upper front edge of the collar to the curve you desire and adjust the topstitching accordingly.


Regardless of the shape and height of the collar, it was a "one piece" collar; there was no back seam.

ENT, 1x12 "Silent Enemy"



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