Analysis, part 2b - Collar, Edge Stitching and Topstitching

The collar assembly itself was in two pieces: the collar and the collar facing.

These were cut separately and sewn together across their upper edges before being attached to the jumpsuit body, with the collar/facing seam line at the top edge of the collar assembly.

Travis ENT jumpsuit auction photo

ENT, 1x18 "Rogue Planet"

ENT, 4x11 "Observer Effect"

All edge stitching and topstitching was done through both layers.

ENT, 1x6 "Terra Nova"

ENT, 1x25 "Two Days Two Nights"

ENT< 4x16 "Divergence"

The collar/collar facing neckline seam allowances were sewn inside the collar assembly.

"Lynsioux" photo of screen-used ENT jumpsuit

The perimeter of the entire collar assembly was edge stitched (through all layers, as mentioned previously).

ENT, 3x16 "Doctor's Orders"

Here are some more examples of the collar edge stitching: 

(publicity photo)

Travis ENT jumpsuit auction photo

ENT jumpsuit (male) auction photo

"Lynsioux" photo of screen-used ENT jumpsuit

Collar heights varied considerably - at least, they did in relation to the rows of collar topstitching, which appeared to consistently be ¼" apart throughout the show's run. 

For instance, the tallest collar we ever observed was one of Archer's, which had eight (!) rows of topstitching, resulting in nine topstitched rows/segments (not including the edge stitching, of course):

ENT, 1x26 "Shockwave (part 1)"

That was the only time we ever saw that many rows of topstitching on an ENT jumpsuit collar. 

Seven rows of topstitching/eight collar segments was slightly more common:

(publicity photo)

Generally speaking, this seems to have been loosely confined to the first season or so. 

ENT, 1x1 "Broken Bow"

ENT, 1x7 "The Andorian Incident"

The seven rows of topstitching/eight segments technique was probably employed in the early years because of the overlap with DS9/NEM and VOY-era Starfleet uniforms; the implied collar height for this technique was 2" (that's eight topstitched segments at ¼" each), which was the standard collar height on the (male) VOY undershirts and DS9/NEM division shirts.

In other words, the VOY and DS9/NEM-era Starfleet (male) garments usually had 2" collars, so initially designing the ENT jumpsuits to have 2" collars was a natural step. 

However, that particular design proved to be less favored - probably because of the semi-awkward topstitching in the middle that a 2" collar necessitated.

By far the most common was six rows of topstitching/seven segments.

ENT, 2x10 "Vanishing Point"

"Lynsioux" photo of screen-used ENT jumpsuit

The six rows/seven segments technique was employed as early as the pilot and seen throughout the show.

"You can add them up yourself." 

ENT, 1x1 "Broken Bow"

ENT, 1x3 "Fight or Flight"

ENT, 1x3 "Fight or Flight"

ENT, 1x3 "Fight or Flight"

ENT, 1x4 "Strange New World"

ENT, 1x5 "Unexpected"

ENT, 1x6 "Terra Nova"

ENT, 1x11 "Cold Front"

ENT, 1x12 "Silent Enemy"

ENT, 1x16 "Shadows of P'Jem"

ENT, 1x21 "Detained"

ENT, 2x1 "Shockwave (part 2)"

ENT, 2x9 "Singularity"

ENT, 3x13 "Proving Ground"

ENT, 3x16 "Doctor's Orders"

ENT, 3x18 "Azati Prime"

ENT, 4x2 "Storm Front (part 2)"

ENT, 4x5 "Cold Station 12"

ENT, 4x8 "Awakening"

ENT, 4x11 "Observer Effect"

ENT, 4x15 "Affliction"

ENT, 4x16 "Divergence"

ENT, 4x21 "Terra Prime"

STPCAA photo of screen-used Travis Mayweather ENT jumpsuit

Note also that although in a previous example Hoshi wore an ENT jumpsuit had seven rows of topstitching/eight segments (see page 61), but in the photo right (and enlarged below), her ENT jumpsuit only had six rows of topstitching/seven segments:

(publicity photo)

A survey of auction photos revealed that six rows/seven segments was common amongst those uniforms too:

NOTE: For what we hope are obvious reasons, we designed the collar on our ENT jumpsuit pattern to have six rows of topstitching/seven segments.

PREVIOUS: Analysis, part 2a - Collar, Shape

NEXT: Analysis, part 3- Nested Necklines