The right sleeve pocket's construction is similar to that of the chest and thigh pockets, except for both the front and back edges are "expanding."
First, install the right thigh pocket zipper as per our zipper installation tutorial.
TIP: The zipper is positioned such that its upper, front, and lower edges are ½" from the edges of the finished pocket, or 1 ⅛" from each raw edge of the unfinished pocket.
We like to also mark the hem and fold lines with tailor's chalk, as well as the pocket's vertical center (as an alignment guide for the jumpsuit's shoulder/outer sleeve seam).
Press the pocket's hem allowances under.
Next, press the front and back "expanding pocket" pleats by folding along the lines indicated on the printed pattern.
Keeping the front edge of the pocket folded, unfold the pleat underneath so there are only two layers of fabric (rather than four) at the front edge, and edge stitch them together.
Repeat for the back edge of the pocket.
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As you may recall from our ENT jumpsuit analysis, the specific vertical placement of the right sleeve pocket varied, but it was usually positioned about 4" beneath the lower edge of the division stripe, which is where we positioned ours.
Once you've decided on your right sleeve pocket's vertical placement (again, we generally recommend 4" beneath the lower edge of the division stripe), mark the pocket placement on the sleeve in the manner of your choice (tailor's chalk, disappearing ink fabric marker, basting thread, pins, etc.).
You can also mark the side edges of the pocket if you want.
Position the right sleeve pocket onto the sleeve so it's centered over the shoulder/outer sleeve seam and so its upper edge is flush with the upper alignment guide you just marked.
Keeping the pocket centered over the shoulder/outer sleeve seam, mark the side edges of the pocket on the sleeve in the manner of your choice if you haven't already.
Keeping the front and back edges of the pocket flush with the alignment guide you just marked, carefully unfold the pocket's front and back edges by pulling them toward center.
Pin the pleated fabric into place (again, keeping the front and back edges flush with the alignment guide you just marked).
Edge stitch the front and back folded edges of the pocket to the front body.
Fold the pocket back over to its proper position and pin into place around its perimeter.
TIP: Tailor-baste the pocket to the sleeve to help secure the layers and prevent them from shifting and/or pulling while stitching.
TIP: Whip-stitch the corners of the pocket to the sleeve, with the upper folds slightly covering the lower (pleated) folds. This will help prevent any "peek-a-boo" from the lower (pleated) folds once finished.
As with the chest and thigh pockets, the height of the "expanding pocket edge stitching" is largely a matter of personal preference.
Unlike with our chest and thigh pockets, because the right sleeve pocket is smaller, we like to edge stitch the uppermost and lowermost 1" on the front and back edges.
Beginning 1" above the back upper corner (or however high you prefer to secure your pocket) and ending the same distance above the front upper corner, edge stitch the top of the right sleeve pocket to the sleeve, reinforcing the stitching at the corners.
Repeat for the bottom of the pocket.
Lastly, horizontally topstitch through all layers ¼" from the upper and lower edges of the pocket.
You may now pull out the basting stitches if you'd like, but we prefer to leave ours in to keep the pocket flat during construction (only pulling out the whip-stitches at the corners).
Your right sleeve pocket is now finished!
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