November 17, 2015

Tutorial, part 15 - Close Sides

Identify the top of the leg zipper opening (indicated on the printed pattern - this is 14 ⅝" above the hemmed pant leg, or 17 ¼" above the bottom of the raw edge of the un-hemmed pang leg). 

Chalk mark the top of the opening onto the wrong side of the pant legs. 

Pin the front and back assemblies (but NOT the waist straps - pull those out of the way!) together along the side/inner sleeve edges, right sides together, matching armscye and upper leg zipper edges exactly and with the bottom of the back elastic waistband even with the bottom edge of the lower waist strap. 

Sew the jumpsuit's sides and inner sleeves closed - again, pulling the waist straps out of the way so they're NOT sewn into the seam! 

Press the seam allowances open. 

Prepare the leg zipper opening exactly as done previously with the sleeve zipper opening.



NOTE: As with the sleeves, it is much, MUCH easier to install the leg zippers and leg gussets (piece U) now, as opposed to later as demonstrated in this tutorial. It also prevents some inevitable "wear-and-tear" on the corners of the leg zipper opening between now and when the zipper is installed. We are presenting the steps in this order solely because it appears to be the order in which the screen-used originals were constructed. 

However, you can save yourself some frustration by "cheating" and installing the leg zippers and leg gussets now as described in step 19. Just position your leg zipper so its bottom edge is 2 ¾" from the bottom of the un-hemmed pant leg, attach the leg gusset, and hem the pant leg after the calf pockets are attached and the jumpsuit's inseam is closed. 

The only difference will be that the leg zipper/gusset seam allowance will be sandwiched between the pant leg and the pant leg's hem allowance, as opposed to the hem allowance being sandwiched between the pant leg and pant leg zipper/gusset seam allowance. (Seriously, it is highly unlikely that anybody will notice, especially if you don't turn your sleeve inside-out for an expert to inspect!) 


Turn your jumpsuit right-side-out again. 

Pull your waist straps toward the back and finish edge-stitching their upper and lower edges to the side seams (remember how we recommended "leaving them hanging" a little bit back in step 5?)

Then, further fasten the waist straps to the jumpsuit body via a vertical topstitch across each stripe as close to the side seam as reasonably possible (the elastic waistband adds some bulk at the side seam that can make the area a bit difficult to navigate).




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