As mentioned during our zipper installation tutorial, the calf pockets' zippers are installed differently than the chest, thigh, and right sleeve pockets.
Begin by interfacing the zipper area (if you choose to do so).
Mark the edges of the zipper opening on the wrong side and/or interfacing with a disappearing ink fabric marker. Note that the extends all the way to the centermost edge of the pocket!
TIP: On our pattern, the zipper is positioned such that its upper edge is 1" beneath the top of the calf pocket (1 ⅝" beneath the upper raw edge), and its side edge is ½" from the side edge of the calf pocket (1 ⅛" from the side raw edge).
TIP: At this point, you can use any of the optional "aids" from our zipper installation tutorial.
Beginning at the centermost edge of the pocket, cut the zipper opening halfway between the two lines you marked, cutting diagonally to the corners about ½" from each end of the opening (forming little triangles).
Fold the cut edges to the underside and firmly press.
Press the pocket's hem allowances under. Note that there's no hem allowance on the bottom edge!
TIP: We recommend pressing the upper hem allowance under first, then the sides.
Cut off the top of a (length of) zipper so that there's no metal stop at the top and the top edge is flat.
Unzip the zipper slightly and position the zipper such that its new "top" is flush with the centermost (open) edge of the pocket's zipper opening.
Cut the other end of the zipper such that it overhangs the zipper opening by about ½" and extends almost to the other edge of the pocket.
Apply liquid fray preventer to the "top" (open end) of the zipper tape.
TIP: Until the zipper ends are secured, be careful not to accidentally "zip" or "unzip" your zipper too far so the pull comes off!
Secure the zipper in place using ¼" double-sided tape.
Edge-stitch the zipper to the pocket around the entirety of its perimeter.
Mark the pocket's positioning on the lower front pant leg in the manner of your choice (we prefer tailor's chalk).
The lower (raw) edge of the pocket should be flush with the pant leg's hem line, 2 ⅝" above the bottom (raw) edge of the pant leg. The side/outer edge of the pocket should be flush with the folded edge of the leg zipper/gusset seam allowance, ⅞" from the outer (raw) edge of the pant leg.
(Ignore those weird parallel, angular lines. I accidentally rolled over the pant leg with my chair - be careful! Like pretty much all large garments, this thing gets progressively more unwieldy as it comes together! Fortunately, in this case, the blemish will be hidden underneath the calf pocket and hem allowance.)
Place the calf pocket on top of the pant leg with its lower and side/outer edges flush with the alignment guide you just marked.
Pin and/or baste the calf pocket into place around the entirety of its perimeter.
Edge-stitch the calf pocket to the pant leg around the entirety of its perimeter, reinforcing the stitch several times over the open ends of the zipper tape to create a firm, sturdy "zipper stop."
Here's a close-up photo of the stitched "zipper stop":
Lastly, horizontally topstitch through all layers ¼" from the upper edge of the pocket.
(Note that, unlike the chest, thigh, and right sleeve pockets, this is done on the upper edge only! You can do it on the lower edge if you want, but it'll never be seen since it gets sewn into the leg cuff.)
Repeat for the other side.
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