November 17, 2015

Tutorial, part 20 - Collar

The process of preparing, attaching, and edge-stitching/topstitching the collar is similar to that done previously with the sleeve cuffs and leg cuffs. 


Sew the collar to the collar facing (both piece A) along the upper edges, right sides together, beginning and ending the stitch line at the collar/body seam line.



Trim the collar/collar facing upper seam allowances to ¼" at the front edges and ⅛" along the top.



Turn the collar assembly right sides out and press.



Press the collar facing's lower seam allowance under, notching as needed to get it to conform.



Sew the collar assembly to the body along the neckline, with the front edges slightly overlapping the front zipper, the collar edges exactly meeting the division stripes at the shoulder seams, and of course matching center backs.



TIP: Grade the collar/body seam allowances to reduce the accumulated bulk at the bottom of the collar!



Fold the collar facing under. 

Pin the collar to the collar facing along their lower edges. 

Edge-stitch the collar to the collar facing along the entirety of their perimeter.



TIP: Before continuing, press the collar assembly over a tailor's ham so the layers will better conform to each other and cooperate when topstitching!






Horizontally topstitch the collar in even, parallel ¼" increments, pivoting appropriately at the front of the collar.

The collar should be the exact height for six such rows of even topstitching (done in three operations, since each time two rows combine/coalesce at the front of the collar).

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