November 16, 2015

Tutorial, part 5 - Waist Straps

Fold one end of the waist strap (piece M) back on itself, the long way and right sides together, by 6". 

(Do not press!)



Using your tailor's chalk (or a disappearing ink fabric marker, if you prefer), draw a line ½" from the folded, upper, and lower edges.

Draw another line 1 ½" from the folded edge, then connect that line to the previous line (½" from the folded edge) via two diagonal lines, forming a triangle. 



Beginning on the upper edge of the two layers, stitch along the line, pivoting at the edges of the triangle and partially along the lower line (perhaps an inch or so past the edge of the triangle), thoroughly reinforcing the stitching at the corners. 

This will form a hook, or sideways figure-J shape.



Cut away the seam allowances as close as you dare to the edges of the triangle.



Turn the strap right-sides-out, poking (or pulling, if you prefer) the back corner out so it's as pointy as possible. It can be hard to get a sharp point with the denim but just do your best! 

Press the back of the strap, then turn under the remaining upper and lower edges ½" and press. 

The strap should be 1" wide until the backmost 1" or so.



From the right side, topstitch ¼" from the edges of the waist strap along its perimeter, then topstitch halfway between these two rows (each being ¼" away)from the raw edge to the topstitched point at the back.



Edge-stitch the waist strap along the entirety of its perimeter (except the raw edge at the front).



Sew, then slash (or chisel!) an appropriately-sized buttonhole at the back of the strap between the rows of topstitching.



Repeat for the other waist straps. 

Press the straps nice and flat.



(As you can see, some may turn out better than others; fortunately, these require very little fabric and a relatively small amount of time, so if you're especially unhappy with any of them just make more until you have enough good ones!)


Press the front of the waist straps under 1".



Position the upper waist strap so it's flush with the bottom of the chest pocket, and its front edge is flush with the front alignment guide (3 ⅝" from the raw center edge of the front body). 

Edge-stitch the waist strap into place, leaving the back portion hanging free.



TIP: We recommend beginning and ending the stitching about 1" from the jumpsuit body's side edge (shown with chalk in the photo above), to make it easier to pull the straps out of the way when closing the side seams later.


Position the lower waist strap ½" beneath the upper waist strap and attach it in the same manner.



Repeat for the other side.




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