The left chest pocket's construction is essentially the same as the right chest pocket's, with the exception of the zipper placement and pencil pocket, but we'll walk you through it here as well.
Install the left chest pocket zipper as per our zipper installation tutorial.
TIP: As we noted in our ENT jumpsuit analysis, the precise placement and height of the zipper varied considerably, but on our pattern, the zipper is 6" tall and positioned so its upper edge is ½" beneath the top edge of the pocket (1 ⅛" beneath the upper raw edge) and its centermost edge is ½" from the centermost edge of the pocket (2 ⅝" from the centermost raw edge).
Press the pocket's upper, centermost, lower, and side hem allowances under.
Note that the armscye edge of the pocket has no hem allowance! It will get sewn into the sleeve.
TIP: We recommend pressing the upper and lower hem allowances under first, then the centermost and sides.
TIP: At the top, clip the outer edges of the hem allowance to help it conform to the slight upward curve.
Next, press the centermost "expanding pocket" pleat by folding along the lines indicated on the printed pattern.
Keeping the centermost edge of the pocket folded, unfold the pleat underneath so there are only two layers of fabric (rather than four) at the center and edge stitch them together.
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Position the left chest pocket onto the front body (piece B) so that its upper edge is flush with the division stripe alignment guide, its center edge is flush with the front alignment guide, and its armscye edge is flush with the body's armscye edge.
Keeping the pleated fabric edge flush with the front alignment guide, carefully unfold the pocket by pulling it away from center.
Pin the pleated fabric into place (again, keeping the lower fold flush with the front alignment guide).
Edge stitch the lower folded edge of the pocket to the front body.
Fold the pocket back over to its proper position and pin into place around its perimeter.
TIP: Tailor-baste the pocket to the body to help secure the layers and prevent them from shifting and/or pulling while stitching.
TIP: Whip-stitch the centermost upper and lower corners of the pocket to the front body, with the upper fold slightly covering the lower (pleated) fold. This will help prevent any "peek-a-boo" from the lower (pleated) fold once finished.
As you may recall from our ENT jumpsuit analysis (and as with the right chest pocket), the "expanding pocket edge stitching" varied in height, so it's really just a matter of personal preference.
As mentioned previously in the right chest pocket section, we like to edge stitch the uppermost and lowermost 2" of our expanding pockets.
Regardless of your decision, we recommend consistently employing it on all the expanding pockets!
Beginning 2" above the centermost lower corner (or however high you prefer to secure your pocket) and ending the same distance above the centermost upper corner, edge stitch the perimeter of the right chest pocket to the body, reinforcing the stitching along the center edges and corners.
TIP: Stay-stitch the armscye ½" from the edges, further securing the armscye edge of the pocket to the body!
Lastly, horizontally topstitch through all layers ¼" from the upper and lower edges of the pocket.
You may now pull out the basting stitches if you'd like, but we prefer to leave ours in to keep the pocket flat during construction (only pulling out the whip-stitches at the corners).
Both of your chest pockets are now finished!
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