We find it helpful to begin making the right chest pocket (piece J) by marking the upper and centermost hem allowances and fold lines. We recommend either doing this with tailor's chalk (testing on a scrap first to be sure it steams away, of course!) or with basting thread.
Next, install the right chest pocket zipper as per our zipper installation tutorial.
TIP: As we noted in our ENT jumpsuit analysis, the precise placement and length of the zipper varied considerably, but on our ENT jumpsuit pattern, the upper edge of the zipper is positioned 1" beneath the top edge of the pocket (1 ⅝" beneath the upper raw edge) and ½" from the centermost edge (2 ⅝" from the centermost raw edge).
Press the pocket's upper, centermost, lower, and side hem allowances under.
Note that the armscye edge of the pocket has no hem allowance! It will get sewn into the sleeve.
TIP: We recommend pressing the upper and lower hem allowances under first, then the centermost and sides.
TIP: At the top, clip the outer edges of the hem allowance to help it conform to the slight upward curve.
Next, press the centermost "expanding pocket" pleat by folding along the lines indicated on the printed pattern.
Keeping the centermost edge of the pocket folded, unfold the pleat underneath so there are only two layers of fabric (rather than four) at the center and edge stitch them together.
We also recommend marking the pencil pocket's upper placement.
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TIP: As we noted in our ENT jumpsuit analysis, the precise placement of the pencil pocket varied, but on our ENT jumpsuit pattern, the upper edge of the pencil pocket is 1" beneath the bottom of the right chest pocket zipper.
Shifting gears, it's time to make the pencil pocket (piece K)!
We've included multiple pencil pocket options with our ENT jumpsuit pattern!
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We've therefore included both the wider and narrower versions of the pencil pocket, so you can make whichever version you prefer.
Option 1 is the wider version (as seen on Trip's ENT jumpsuit above), and option 2 is the narrower version (as seen on Archer's ENT jumpsuit above).
As you may also recall, the pencil pocket varied considerably in height, sometimes extending down to about 1" above the bottom of the right chest pocket and sometimes extending to as little as 4" above the chest pocket bottom.
We've therefore included four pencil pocket height options with our pattern:
* "Short" is similar to Archer's late ENT jumpsuit and extends to 4" above the chest pocket bottom
* "Medium" is similar to Trip's ENT jumpsuit and extends to 3" above the chest pocket bottom
* "Long" is similar to Hoshi's ENT jumpsuits and extends to 2" above the chest pocket bottom
* "Extra long" is similar to Reed's and Travis' ENT jumpsuits and extends to 1" above the chest pocket bottom
For this tutorial, we will be constructing the "short," wider version of the pencil pocket (option 1).
We actually prefer how the "long" and "medium" versions of the pocket look, but the "short" version of the pocket is actually useful for holding things such as pencils and pens.
This is purely a matter of personal preference, so feel free to construct whichever version and height you like! That's why we included them for you!
Begin by marking the pencil pocket's hem allowances.
Next, mark the two vertical rows of topstitching which fasten it to the right chest pocket.
On the wider version of the pocket (option 1), these will be 1" apart between the pocket edges.
On the narrower version of the pocket (option 2), these will be ¾" apart between the pocket edges.
Beginning ¼" inside the centermost or side pocket edges, vertically topstitch the pencil pocket in ¼" increments between the fastening rows, but not over the marked fastening rows themselves!
On the wider version of the pocket (option 1, pictured to the right), there will be 3 rows of topstitching between each marked line.
On the narrower version of the pocket (option 2), there will only be 2 rows of topstitching between each marked line.
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| Pardon the warbly topstitching on the right - whoops! |
Press the pencil pocket's top hem allowance under and topstitch the hem into place from the wrong side ½" from the upper edge.
Press the hem allowances of the other three pencil pocket edges under.
Position the pencil pocket on top of the right chest pocket so that the centermost edges are flush.
Keeping the centermost edge of the pocket folded, unfold the pleat underneath so there are only two layers of fabric (rather than four) at the center and edge stitch the pencil pocket to the right chest pocket along the centermost edge (over the previous stitching line).
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Now pull the pleated fabric toward center so it's out of the way and edge stitch the side and lower edges of the pencil pocket to the right chest pocket (being careful not to catch the chest pocket's pleated fabric).
Then topstitch the pencil pocket to the right chest pocket along the two vertical rows previously marked (1" from each edge for the wider version/option 1 and ¾" from each edge for the narrower version/option 2).
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Your right chest pocket is now ready to be attached to the front of the jumpsuit!
Position the right chest pocket onto the front body (piece B) so that its upper edge is flush with the division stripe alignment guide, its center edge is flush with the front alignment guide, and its armscye edge is flush with the body's armscye edge.
Keeping the pleated fabric edge flush with the front alignment guide, carefully unfold the pocket by pulling it away from center.
Pin the pleated fabric into place (again, keeping the lower fold flush with the front alignment guide).
Edge stitch the lower folded edge of the pocket to the front body.
Fold the pocket back over to its proper position and pin into place around its perimeter.
TIP: Tailor-baste the pocket to the body to help secure the layers and prevent them from shifting and/or pulling while stitching.
TIP: Whip-stitch the centermost upper and lower corners of the pocket to the front body, with the upper fold slightly covering the lower (pleated) fold. This will help prevent any "peek-a-boo" from the lower (pleated) fold once finished.
As you may recall from our ENT jumpsuit analysis, the "expanding pocket edge stitching" varied in height, so it's really just a matter of personal preference.
We like to edge stitch the uppermost and lowermost 2" of our expanding pockets.
Regardless of your decision, though, we recommend consistently employing it on all the expanding pockets!
Beginning 2" above the centermost lower corner (or however high you prefer to secure your pocket) and ending the same distance above the centermost upper corner, edge stitch the perimeter of the right chest pocket to the body, reinforcing the stitching along the center edges and corners.
TIP: Stay-stitch the armscye ½" from the edges, further securing the armscye edge of the pocket to the body!
Lastly, horizontally topstitch through all layers ¼" from the upper and lower edges of the pocket.
You may now pull out the basting stitches if you'd like, but we prefer to leave ours in to keep the pocket flat during construction (only pulling out the whip-stitches at the corners).
PREVIOUS: Tutorial, part 2 - Zipper Installation
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