September 27, 2015

Analysis, part 24b - Sleeve Cuff, Edge Stitching and Topstitching

Like the collar, the sleeve cuffs were edge stitched around their perimeters.

ENT, 4x5 "Cold Station 12"
ENT, 4x5 "Cold Station 12"


Also as on the collar, the sleeve cuffs were decorated with horizontal rows of topstitching ¼" apart. 

Aaand also like the collar, the sleeve cuffs varied considerably in height (at least, they did in relation to the number of rows of topstitching).




The tallest sleeve cuff (or, at least, the sleeve cuff with the most rows of topstitching) we ever observed was, incidentally, the one "Lynsioux" photographed and shared; like the Archer collar example from 1x26 "Shockwave (part 1)", it had eight (!) rows of topstitching, resulting in nine topstitched rows/segments (not including the edge stitching, of course):

"Lynsioux" photo of screen-used ENT jumpsuit


Also like that first and tallest Archer collar example we shared, we only ever saw one uniform with that many rows of topstitching on the sleeve cuff. 

Seven rows of topstitching/eight cuff segments was fairly common, especially in the show's early years:

ENT, 1x5 "Strange New World"
ENT, 1x6 "Terra Nova"
ENT, 1x22 "Vox Sola"
ENT, 1x26 "Shockwave (part 1)"
ENT, 2x12 'The Catwalk"
ENT, 2x20 "Horizon"
(publicity photo)
STPCAA photo of Travis Mayweather screen-used ENT jumpsuit


Interestingly, while the ENT jumpsuit "Lynsioux" photographed and shared had a left sleeve cuff that was eight rows of topstitching/nine segments tall, the right sleeve cuff was seven rows of topstitching/eight segments tall:

"Lynsioux" photo of screen-used ENT jumpsuit


Although it was almost entirely confined to the first couple years of the show, the "seven rows of topstitching/eight segments" technique did still pop up sometimes in the later years:

ENT, 4x4 "Borderland"


As with the collar, the seven rows of topstitching/eight segments technique was probably employed in the early years because of the overlap with DS9/NEM and VOY-era Starfleet uniforms; the implied sleeve cuff height for this technique was 2" (that's eight topstitched segments at ¼" each), which was the standard size sleeve cuffs on the (male) VOY undershirt and DS9/NEM division shirt, as well as the typical size of the sleeve stripes on the DS9/NEM admiral jacket

In other words, the VOY and DS9/NEM-era Starfleet (male) garments usually had 2" sleeve cuffs, so initially designing the ENT jumpsuits to have 2" sleeve cuffs was a natural step. 

However, that particular design proved to be less favored - probably because of the semi-awkward collar topstitching a 2" collar necessitated, and when altering the height of the collar Blackman & co. felt compelled to alter the height of the sleeve cuffs in the same manner.


Also as with the collar, by far the most popular sleeve cuff design used throughout the show was with six rows of topstitching/seven sleeve cuff segments.

ENT, 1x1 "Broken Bow"
ENT, 1x4 "Strange New World"
ENT, 1x4 "Strange New World"
ENT, 1x7 "The Andorian Incident"
ENT, 1x7 "The Andorian Incident"

ENT, 1x8
"Breaking the Ice"
ENT, 1x13 "Dear Doctor"

ENT, 1x24
"Desert Crossing"
ENT, 2x3 "Minefield"

ENT, 2x3 "Minefield"

ENT, 2x3 "Minefield"
ENT, 2x3 "Minefield"
ENT, 2x4 "Dead Stop"
ENT, 2x9 "Singularity"
ENT, 2x10 "Vanishing Point"
ENT, 2x12
"The Catwalk"
ENT, 2x13 "Dawn"

ENT, 2x16 'Future Tense"

ENT, 2x16 "Future Tense"
ENT, 2x16 "Future Tense"
ENT, 2x16 "Future Tense"
ENT, 4x5 "Cold Station 12"


ENT, 4x5
"Cold Station 12"
ENT, 4x8 "The Awakening"


ENT, 4x11
"Observer Effect"
ENT, 4x15 "Affliction"

ENT, 4x15 "Affliction"

(publicity photo)
(publicity photo)
(publicity photo)
(publicity photo)


One notable diversion from this popular "almost-standard" was Archer's ENT jumpsuit sleeve cuffs throughout all four seasons, which often (but not always!) had only five rows of topstitching/six segments:

ENT, 1x19 "Acquisition"
ENT, 2x3 "Minefield"
ENT, 2x14 "Stigma"
ENT, 2x18 "The Crossing"
ENT, 3x3 "Extinction"
ENT, 3x3 "Extinction"
ENT, 4x18 "In a Mirror, Darkly (part 1)"
Archer ENT jumpsuit auction photo
Archer ENT jumpsuit auction photo


Although the five topstitching rows/six segments technique was mostly seen on (some of) Archer's ENT jumpsuits, it was not exclusive to his character; we did observe at least two other uniforms with similar sleeve cuffs:

ENT, 1x4 "Strange New World"
ENT, 3x20 "The Forgotten"



No comments:

Post a Comment